Since cats are carnivores, their natural diet would consist exclusively of meat. Some types of food contain less meat than others and the list of ingredients should be checked to see if the first ingredient is meat rather than corn products. Kidney disease is very common in cats so low ash content is essential as this can prevent urinary tract blockages and infections. Cats require taurine which is an essential amino acid that promotes a healthy heart and vision.

There are different types of food that cater for the different needs of cats. Some are made for different age groups or for special needs. There are some that are made for different breeds.

A kittens body needs to manufacture muscle, it has to grow hair, teeth and they need to build up their immune system, and therefore kittens require high quality nutrition. Specially formulated kitten food should contain all the necessary minerals to promote healthy growth. It should contain protein to enable tissue and organ development as well as calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, zinc and iron for strong bones and teeth.

As cats grow older they become less active and spend more time indoors so fewer calories and less fat is required in their diet. A good older cat food should have low fat content, protein and easily digestible carbohydrates for energy. It should also contain minerals and vitamins to assist with aging joints and to help fight infections and lower phosphorous levels to minimize the strain on their kidneys.

There are foods available for vegetarian or vegan diets which are normally fortified with polyunsaturated omega 6 fatty acids and taurine, however because cats are carnivores, this is not recommended by vets.

What your cat eats is very important to their well-being and most cats fussy needs can be met by the variety of cat food on the market. Ensure that the food contains all the necessary proteins and vitamins that your feline requires to keep them healthy and to live longer.

Some of the very common symptoms of cat flu that owners should be aware of are sneezing and coughing, salivating more than normal, discharge form the nose and eyes, ulcers on the tongue and general lameness. If your feline acquires a secondary bacterial infection then the discharge from the nose and eyes can become thicker and yellow in colouring. These kinds of signs or symptoms are all indicators of a cat health care problem and therefore the cat must be taken to visit the vet. Under these circumstances, the cat’s best chance of survival lies with intensive treatment from a vet. The cat health care vet should be able to treat bacterial feline flu with antibiotics but there’s unfortunately no specific treatment for viral feline flu.

Because life threatening cat flu has no established treatment, cat health care professionals are always working to raise awareness of the fact that vaccination as a kitten with ongoing boosters is vital. The only certain means of protection against cat flu.

Breeding Season–When it’s mating time, the male instinctively perfumes himself with urine to be noticeable to the females. And while this is perfectly natural in the wild, it can be unbelievably smelly in your home.

The easiest way to stop this behaviour is to have your pet neutered. Neutering and spaying will certainly decrease hormone levels of males and females and will lessen the odour. This should be done between 5 and 6 months of age, and can even be done at a later.

Ear Mites-Ferrets produce a large amount of ear wax, and this can lead to ear mites which make their presence known with foul smelling ears. Your vet can prescribe ear drops to get rid of the mites, and may also prescribe a cleansing solution to be used regularly to keep the ears fresh and avoid a recurrence.

Dental Problems-If you smell bad breath, is it often an indication that there is a problem with teeth or gums. Take your pet to the vet and have them give a thorough exam to make sure that the problems are not causing pain, and can be taken care of before they cause more serious problems.

Poofs-This smelly reaction is an expulsion from the anal sacs when your ferret is excited, ill, frightened, and sometimes just occurs during physical exertion. This is a temporary smell that eventually dissipates in the air, but while you’re waiting, it’s a pretty "up in your face" smell.

Surgically removing the anal sacs can greatly improve the way your ferret smells. But as with any surgery there are risks not only during the surgery but lasting side effects that can result because of it. If you decide to have this done, make sure your vet is experienced with the procedure, and has performed it enough to be considered an expert.

Skin problems-Dry skin and skin infections can cause ferrets to produce more oil to affect a natural cure. This additional oil means increased odour. Bathing your pet several times a month can lessen the oil and the odour. Be careful not to bathe too frequently or you will cause more oil to be produced because of dry skin.

Always use a shampoo that is specifically designed for ferrets, and consult your vet about skin problems and the exact frequency for bathing that will keep your pet’s skin healthy.

Unhealthy Diet–What you feed your ferret can have a big impact on their overall health. A poor diet can result in more frequent and odoriferous elimination than would occur from a ferret being fed a healthy diet.

A healthy diet should be one that is high in fat and protein, and low in fibre. This is another area where consulting a vet will make life better for you and your ferret.

An overall solution to odour that will keep your home smelling fresh regardless of what is going on in the life of your ferret is to use an air purifier that is specifically designed to remove pet odour from your air, and one that can give you 24 hour coverage daily.

Initially small and baby pigs are in need of specialized care. You first and foremost need; to make their areas safe. Start by considering a box rather than a cage as a location to adapt your baby. Boxes have no trapping like wire mesh, and are smooth so they do well for the first couple of weeks. Baby pigs can’t climb out and you can leave the top open.

The down side of course is that your new family member cannot see out. But their little heads and feet cannot get stuck in wall mesh and wire floors. Once you have your pet’s home, talk softly and feed regularly. Watch your guinea pig squeal with joy shortly.
If the new pet is fearful, soft voice and trying not to hover over her will work wonders. Read below where you can obtain more interesting facts about creating a great home for your pig.

What to feed your guinea pig? This is a lot cheaper and easier. Start with some little bits of fresh veggies like cucumber, shavings of carrot and carrot greens. Add apples and other fruits, but not grapes. Once you get a chance you can go to the store and buy some hay. Hay is a great vitamin C enhancement and they love the flavour.

Also consider your next step, a cage. A cage with a solid bottom is usually preferable but not always available. Make sure the cage is large enough for a house (not too big) and room to run. You can find out more for free at our web site on caging and supplies. It is important to make sure you carefully interact with your friend in the first several weeks so that she becomes comfortable with you and also loving and cuddly.

Guinea pig babies are always welcome additions and wonderful loving creatures. However, they require careful handling in the first few days of they could become afraid and withdraw from humans.

Lastly, what will you name your guinea pig. We have a helping hand there. Look at our vast section of names for guinea pigs if you are struggling to find the perfect name. We named our guinea pig Daisy because that is the favourite flower of my wife. What will you name your guinea pig? We hope you enjoy your first guinea pig as much as we did, once we knew what we were doing.

Frequent urination; your dog is urinating more frequently than ordinary.

Often parched; your dog is drinking more frequently.

Beat and sleepy; your dog is not as frolicsome and lays around a lot. Weight control or gain; any unexpected change in weight.

Sudden blindness; your dog can’t see well. week and lethargic body condition; you dog just looks weak.

Sweet smelling breath; a change from regular doggie breath to sweet breath.

Shaking or shivering; shaking or shivering is an indication of a blood sugar problem which may be hypoglycaemia or diabetes (diabetes is rather more likely).

Persistent or frequent infections; your dog is getting sores or contagions regularly that occur often and / or do not heal fast.

This list is by no means meant to be conclusive, rather these are a few of the more common symptoms I have seen that have led to the diagnosing of dog diabetes.

If you think your dog has dog diabetes due to any of the above symptoms, see your vet and get it diagnosed. If your dog is diagnosed as having diabetes and insulin is prescribed, it isn’t extremely pricey to buy for treating your dog’s condition. There are certain strains of dogs that are way more at the mercy of dog diabetes which is something you’ll be able to find out about on the internet. Even so, get your dog tested and ensure to ask your vet about changes in diet you have to make for the healthiness of your dog.

Dogs use a number of methods to stay clean including licking, shaking and scratching. Routine brushing them can help the fur to stay clean and unmated. Some breeds have longer hair and require this attention daily. Breeds with shorter hair can be brushed more like once a week. Generally, dogs will enjoy the brushing and may even sit still while you are brushing. If your dog does not care for this treatment, use the brush in a short period of time while talking soothingly to him. Afterwards, give him a treat for being good. Add a little more time on the next brushing until they start to accept and even enjoy it.
Check for dark specs on the skin as these can be fleas. Run your hands down his coat as you brush him. The sight of black flecks, are flea dropping; you need to seek help for your animal right away. Also check for rice like debris near his tail or even in his faeces. This is a sure sign that the dog has worms. Again, you need to take your pet to the vet in this case as they will need treatment.

Your pet needs his teeth brushed daily. Use a child sized toothbrush or just a finger toothbrush that is designed for your pet. You will need to use a paste designed for dogs only. Do not use your toothpaste as this can seriously make your dog ill. Give them rawhide chews to gnaw on as another aid to help keep dog’s teeth in tip top shape. This helps keep teeth as well as gums healthy.

Other types of grooming are required as well, but not as frequently. Check ears and nails weekly or monthly. Check into your dog’s ears. The sight of small, black/brown specks could be ear mites. Taking your dog on walks on sidewalks as well as in the driveway can help to wear nails down. It is important that the nails do not get too long. Again, check with your vet as to the proper way to trim them to help the dog to stay healthy and to walk correctly. It is definitely not a good idea to trim them without getting some training from your vet first.

Finally, it is important in house training to be aware that a puppy’s short attention span means he or she will not be aware that the punishment delivered relates to anything other than what is happening at that exact moment. If a dog is not caught in the act of eliminating somewhere other than on the puppy training pads, it is best to not punish the animal, and to form a new strategy about how to keep an eye out for when the mess is happening. Puppy housebreaking can be a challenging experience, but the results will be rewarding and will help to form a lasting bond between pet and owner.

Temperament. Pointers are well tempered dog and friendly, they are happiest in a home, as a member of the family. Unusually, for a hunting dog, the pointer, although very energetic and enthusiastic in their hunting, they are reasonably happy with just an adequate amount of exercise, it does not have an uncontrollable urge to hunt smaller animals. They adapt well to their surroundings, although can be a little shy of strangers. You need to ensure that you are master over the dog, as they are themselves strong minded, to lack mastery over this or any other hunting dog is asking the trouble. Whilst they are not watchdogs, they will react to, and probably bark at, unusual noises or activities.

Health issues. As a breed the pointers are very healthy dogs, with a 13 to 14 year life span, that have few illnesses associated to them. As with all largish dogs they can suffer hip dysplasia, they are predisposed to epilepsy. Apart from these they can be prone to some skin problems, although not particularly serious; they will need attention if contracted.

Grooming. This is probably one of the simplest breeds to groom. A simple brushing, or even just a rub down with a cloth, every week or two is normally adequate care for their short coat. You should, however, inspect your dog regularly for skin problems; they can be prone to fleas and the like, because of their delicate skin it’s quite important to ensure they are adequately protected from such attacks. As they are floppy eared dogs, care should be taken in the inspection and cleaning of their ears every couple of weeks. Bathing of the pointer is rarely required, and due to the problem of washing the healthy oils from their hair and skin a bath should only be given annually.

Living conditions. These are active and energetic dogs and on occasions can appear tireless; they will require a couple of hours exercise every day. Playing in the garden is an effective way of providing some of the exercise requirements, but a long brisk walk will also be necessary. If you are a jogger you will find the dog has no problem keeping up with you, in fact, it may end up being the other way around.

Having said that they are quite happy, for a reasonable period of time, to just lie on your favourite couch watching television with you. This is definitely not a dog to own if you live in an apartment, although they are happy for their rest periods they do require an exceptional amount of exercise and space.

You will need to make sure that the pup understands from day one that it is not acceptable to make a mess indoors. Agree the basic set of commands with your family that will be used for your new Springer. This will avoid confusion in the pup and make training easier and quicker. The first words (besides his name) you will be using when you bring him home will probably be along the lines of "Good Boy", "No" and "Bad Boy". Obviously, younger puppies take time to develop control and the pup will tend relieve itself often and anywhere in the first few days as it gets used to a new environment, new people and lack of a mother. Tell-tale signs of an oncoming splurge are sniffing and circling.

As soon as you see these signs then straight away take the dog gently outside to an area you have set aside for him to mess. Once his job is over, praise him well. You will get annoyed from time to time when you get caught unawares by him, but try not to show it; things will get better in a couple of weeks.

If he does get caught out indoors and you only see it later, then it’s too late to scold him as he will not be able to link the earlier splurge with your current anger. Some owners put their dog’s nose in the splurge as a reminder, but I don’t believe in this approach.

In winter, you will not want the pup to get chilled. Just a quick out and in again and don’t forget the praise. Always reinforce good behaviour with praise.

You, too, need to get into a routine with him, so take the pup out to his place in the yard:

* When he wakes up in the morning

* After he has slept

* After he has eaten

* Any other time you see him circling and sniffing

In the early days he will not get through the whole night without needing to go. Put some old newspapers around his basket. You can gradually move the papers so that he starts to head for the door when the urge comes on. Then, he will learn to associate the door with going outside to do his work.

Springer spaniels are really smart and he will soon learn to use the same place outside if you consistently lead him to his spot.

Get the children to help in cleaning up too, as they will learn to share the responsibility of caring for the pup and the importance of hygiene.

Check your local pet shop and think about getting a dedicated bin for pup waste disposal – most good pet shops have these.

As the weeks pass, it will get easier as he begins to understand you and what is required, then you should be able to stop carrying him outside and just let him follow you. He’ll start to make for the door when he needs to go.

Springers are intelligent, and don’t like to be in their own mess; your patience and persistence with him will pay dividends as he learns.

Before too long he will get used to the routine and save it up for his walk. Then, you will have to go prepared with plastic bags which you just slip over your hand and close over the droppings, a double knot and into the disposal. Easy, clean and your pup is housetrained!

The training is best done by one person in the family, preferably the dog’s ultimate master. When the training is complete then the Springer will be able to work with other family members with the same set of commands, but during training it is best if only one person is involved.

By the age of four months, you should be able to gain and hold your dog’s attention and basic commands such as ‘Sit’ and ‘Come’ should be working most of the time. Also, your dog should by now be able to recognise when he has done something wrong and you use the words ‘Bad Boy’ or similar. Springers want to fetch and are eager to please. This makes them easy to train. You will have noticed your pup carrying his dog toys, and from an early age you can encourage him to release his toy into your hand avoiding tug of war. Then praise him. Then return his toy. This behaviour should be encouraged and praised. There are tricks for training this ‘easy’ release.

You do need him to understand that there are things he can carry and things he is not allowed to carry. This will minimise later problems in training the retrieve.

You may have an old stuffed sock or glove that you set aside for training the fetch – ideally three or four articles to provide variety. Sticks are not good as they encourage a ‘hard’ mouth. These training dummies should be kept separate for training and your pup should not be allowed to play with them – keeping them separate gives them special meaning. Encourage him to carry whilst walking at your side, and then to Sit with the sock on his mouth and to come on command, with the sock.

Before you move out into the field, teach the pup to release gently. This is done by telling him to sit and then whilst facing him with eye contact, stroke him on the forehead and under the chin; bring both hands forward along his cheeks whilst saying ‘good boy’, ‘give’. Praise him and return the sock. Don’t forget to vary the dummies.

Your pup should now be able to pick up the sock or glove, carry it, come on command, deliver it to your hand and give.

We move now to the throw. This is best done in open space without too many distractions. If your yard or garden is big enough then that is good as it is all known territory to him. Your Springer should be told to sit by your side (remember firm voice and eye contact). Hold his collar whilst you throw a glove or stuffed sock a short distance. Restrain him briefly by the collar then say ‘Fetch’, with an excited tone, as you release him. When he returns then tell him to sit and go through the ‘Give’ procedure.

With some Springers it may be necessary to use the command ‘Wait’ whilst restraining them.

He should be understanding your enthusiasm for the fetch, and gradually after sufficient repetitions over a few days and various dummies, you should be able to move away from the collar restraint, as he starts to realise that he will be able to go and fetch, but only on your command.

The whole cycle of retrieval should now be working and you should both be enjoying it.

Train him further by teaching him the names of the articles and getting him to retrieve a specific article by name – be it sock, ball or glove. As with all training, don’t repeat the exercises more than four or five times a day, as your Springer will get bored and lose interest.