Archive for the ‘Dogs’ Category

A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.

Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.

Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.

If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.

Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.

At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.

How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.

This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.

Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.

Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.

Understand the command.

Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.

All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.

You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.

This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.

How to reprimand

Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.

Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.

It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.

In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!

The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.

When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"

Limits to the extent of training.

It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.

Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.

Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.

Choice of breed to train.

If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort

This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.

A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.

In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.

Training dogs with different temperaments.

In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.

Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.

1.Dog Number One.

The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.

Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.

2. Dog Number two.

The shy, timid dog.

This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.

3. Dog Number three.

The lazy dog.

This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.

Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,

Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.

For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.

Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".

"BLITZ."

With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not

As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!

In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.

He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.

A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!

Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.

There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.

After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.

Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.

Dog number 2. "Flinch"

Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.

This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.

But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.

Dog refuses to budge.

After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.

In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.

As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.

Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.

Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.

There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.

Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.

If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:

This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"

Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.

The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.

Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"

The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.

Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.

One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.

Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.

Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.

The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.

Use the training collar correctly.

Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.

This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.

Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com

If you're a dog owner and have a "world class" barker in the house, you may already know the stress of shattered quiet or dealing with unhappy neighbors.

Dogs always bark for a reason. Studies have even shown that different barks express different emotions (though a few breeds, like the poodle and the American Staffordshire Terrier, appear limited in their vocal repertory). The more high-pitched, atonal and repetitive the bark, the more indicative it is of a dog under stress.

A recent study of 84 dogs from nine breeds, including Poodles, Weimaraners, American Staffordshire Terriers, German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Bull Terriers and Muensterlaenders, recorded as many as a dozen variations of some types of barking among the dogs. Subtle variations even corresponded to "dialects" which were used by the dogs in identical situations at different times.

Although there is no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, males tend to bark less once neutered because they're less territorial. There's also a breed difference in barkers; Many Beagles, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more - not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred.

Virtually all canine behavioral experts agree that the key to solving the problem of excessive barking is to understand what's causing it. To solve problem barking, you'll need some patience and understanding, but teaching your barker a couple of very basic obedience commands will help a lot, too.

Oddly enough, teaching your dog to bark on command is a good way to teach them also how to stop. By learning when barking is desirable, they also learn what your word is for when to stop.

What doesn't work:

- Shouting "No" louder than the dog only makes things worse since the dog perceives this as YOU barking, too. It's not a long term solution;

- Hugging or talking soothingly to the dog when barking is a "no no" because the dog comes to believe that there IS something of which to be concerned. Coddling simply reinforces barking.

- Striking the dog doesn't address the cause of your dog's barking. If your dog is barking out of anxiety, hitting her only adds betrayal to the list of what worries her since she looks to you for guidance, not pain.

- Throwing items AT the dog. This is a good way to ruin a show dog and also introduces another reason for the dog to bark. Throwing can-filled pennies is a method of distraction, but it needs to be done correctly. Keep reading.

- Crating or confining the dog to a small space for hours and hours. This alone can cause barking.

The leading causes of barking?

Territorial/Protective Behavior

Startled or Fear Barking

Attention-Seeking or boredom

Self-identification

Play/Excitement

Loneliness or Separation Anxiety

Let's explore the cause and remedies for barking a bit more fully.

Separation or Loneliness Anxiety: This is probably the leading cause of excessive barking; It can also be the most difficult to determine since it typically occurs when a dog's owner is gone. Unless the owner receives a complaint, they many never know they have a problem barker. Complicating the matter is trying to determine when barking IS excessive. Some neighbors have a hair trigger when it comes to barking and even a few normal "woofs" is enough to generate a complaint. Be suspicious of your dog if s/he displays behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, greeting you frantically, or overreacting anxiously whenever you prepare to leave.

Anxiety barking becomes self-reinforcing as a dog becomes more stimulated and anxious. The more anxious the dog, the higher in pitch the bark. These barks are especially audible to neighbors.

Separation anxiety barking can be remedied with counter-conditioning, desensitization and teaching the dog how to relax. Commanding the dog to "lie down," for instance, is handy because reclining dogs don't bark as vigorously when lying down.

The best way to desensitize a dog to your leaving is to run frequent "drills." Start out by pretending to leave the house by changing your habits. Most of us have predictable patterns of behavior before leaving the house and this contributes to the dog becoming anxious. If, for example, the last thing you do before leaving the house is to pick up car keys, DON'T pick up the car keys last, put your shoes on last instead - and then don't leave. Go to the couch and read a book; Pick up the phone and pretend to talk. If you play music but only on weekends when you are home, turn it on during your workdays. As hard as it may be, set your alarm on weekends, get up, but stay home. Continue changes in routine until your dog pays no attention to your cues anymore. It is also very important to not give your dog a lot of attention when you leave.

Work your way up to actually leaving the dog for a very short time, say, a minute or two. Before the dog starts getting nervous and barking, come back into the house. You're not rewarding barking, you're rewarding relaxation and silence. Gradually extend the time you're gone, and return before the dog gets anxious. If your dog is anxious even if you leave the room, then you will need to start by just taking several steps away from her while she remains relaxed. You cannot go too slowly during this process - but you can go too fast.

If you suspect your dog is lonely, hire a pet sitter or dog walker, or look into a "doggie day care center or play group," increasingly attractive and practical options that's a "win win" for all involved. You can expect to pay up to $25 a day, but it's far cheaper than fines or constant complaints from the neighbors. To find a doggie day care center or "play group" for your dog, consult your veterinarian, local training facility or check out the phone book. High end pet shops also typically know who in the area offers pet sitting or play group options and often carrying their business cards.

Always remember that your dog is NOT punishing you, nor is he enjoying himself when he's barking because he's lonely or anxious. Think about how you feel when you're truly overwrought about something and you'll get an idea of how your dog feels. Be patient and understanding as you help your dog work through this - and keep communication open with disgruntled neighbors to show that you ARE working on the situation. Dog pounds are filled with confused and bewildered dogs who've been dumped there because their owners were either forced to give them up because of barking, or because they failed to work with the dog's problem.

Barking for Attention Seeking or boredom: Dogs of any age quickly learn that humans pay attention to their barking. It doesn't matter if we're furious with them or that we've just shouted "NO!" Negative attention is still attention and reinforces barking. Hard as it may be, it's best to ignore this type of barking which can be like a persistent yap that turns into a howl. Sometimes, the use of a remote correction is helpful in controlling this type of barking: Coins in an empty soda can be tossed away from the dog which will distract him from barking. Timing is important and at this point, give the dog a substitute for barking such as a treat, a toy or a walk. Just make sure she stops barking before you give the substitute or the dog will perceive it as a reward for barking.

If the dog is left alone a lot, has little chance to interact with you, has an environment devoid of companions or toys, or is a dog under three years old, the dog is probably barking out of boredom. Increase the dog's "people time" by taking walks, playing fetch or Frisbee®, teaching a few commands, attending an agility class, and providing safe, interesting toys to keep the dog busy. Kong®-type toys filled with peanut butter or broken up dog biscuits... busy-box toys... Treat Dispensing Balls, these are excellent choice. Rotating the toys will make them seem new and interesting, and hiding different toys around the dog's environment also helps.

Self-identification barkers can be difficult to control, especially in a household of multiple dogs and PARTICULARLY if the dogs are kept outside. There's usually an instigator dog and other dogs tend to join in. This is the barking your dog does when s/he hears other dogs barking. It can be controlled by using obedience and relaxation methods, and by offering substitute behavior like playing with a toy. If the sound of other dogs barking gets your dog to start, you can teach her how to respond appropriately by visiting web sites where you can select various dog barks for your dog to hear. Just do a Google search on "dog barking audio." When your dog hears the computer barking and he starts barking, use the opportunity to teach your dog how to respond to by saying, "Enough." The very second your dog stops - if only to draw breath for the next bark - pop a treat in his mouth and gush, "Good boy!" Repeat. Do this daily and be sure to do it outside under "real" circumstances, as well.

Territorial Alert and Warning barks are used to warn off intruders, be they man or beast. These warning barks are low in pitch, can be combined with growls - and if you've even heard your dog make this sound, you know that it's unlike any other sound your dog makes. Most of us appreciate this canine "early warning system" and think it's appropriate to reward with a "What is it, girl?" or "What do you hear, fella?"

If and when no intruder appears, give the dog the command, "Enough" to show that you believe the alarm has passed and that it's okay to stop vocalizing. If the dog doesn't stop this menacing sound, however, believe the dog.

Territorial barks become problematic when leveled at joggers, delivery people or kids on bicycles and can happen during walks or from the dog's own backyard. The dog's barking is reinforced by the fact that these people eventually leave, and now the dog thinks HE made the intruders go away with his barking. To stop this kind of barking, you need to teach the dog to respond to a command or signal to stop.There are a couple of ways to do this:

One way is to start by making a noise to distract the dog from barking. AS SOON as the dog stops, say, "enough" and immediately reward the dog either with praise or a treat. Don't give the reward until the barking stops or the dog will think that it is being rewarded for barking, not for stopping the barking.

Another approach is this one: When your dog begins to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say "enough" and interrupt the barking by squirting water into her mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun. The surprise should cause her to stop barking, if only for a moment. In that moment, and while she's quiet, say "Good Dog!" in a happy voice and pop a treat into her mouth. The squirt isn't meant to punish her but to surprise her into quieting so you can reward her.

Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game whether it's with you or another dog. When the barking is excessive, it's best to stop the play, let the dog(s) calm down, and only allow play to resume when the barking stops. if it starts up again, repeat the process. If it STILL continues, it's time for a substitute activity.In time the dog(s) will learn to play with their "inside" voice.

Startled or Fear barking happens when the dog is faced with an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement - like a car pulling into the driveway, or thunder. Your dog's posture indicates fear: ears back, tail held low...and his barks are short and crisp. This type of barking responds well to desensitivity training. In essence, you expose the dog to the sounds that consistently startle him. Start by recording the sound, like thunder, fire crackers, motorcycles,etc, or buy a recording of the sound. Play the sound to the dog very softly so that your dog will stay relaxed when hearing it. If she remains quiet, then reward her. Over days and weeks, gradually increase the volume until she is no longer startled into barking when she hears it.

Ultimately, if nothing works to solve your dog's excessive barking behavior, you just may have a pathologic barker - a dog who barks in an obsessive-compulsive manner over inappropriate things (a leaf falling) or becomes hyper-excited and aggressive with the approach of people or other dogs. These dogs need more serious behavior modification and a team-approach is highly recommended.

The team can be family members, dog friends, or anyone who is willing to work with the dog as long as they know to use the same commands in the same way as all the other team members. The services of a behavior modification expert can be highly useful in this scenario, as can a veterinarian who might recommend medication during the early going. We view medication as a last resort, but if faced with neighbors who are threatening to take you to court, your options are few.

Speaking of options, there are other remedies for barking and we'd be remiss in not mentioning them, though we believe they don't attack the root of problem barking: the cause. These options include bark collars and de-barking.

Bark collars work by producing a response to barking that the dog notices and presumably doesn't like. Be aware, however, that for some hard core barkers, they would rather bark and be punished than not bark at all.

Citronella collars spray citrus scent or mist around the dog's muzzle when the dog barks. Some collars make a sound before spraying as an additional deterrent. In theory, dogs aren't supposed to like this smell, but we've heard of dogs who quite liked it. One positive aspect to a citrus collar is that it can alert you to the fact that your dog was barking while you were gone since the citrus smell still lingers in the air;

Sonic/ultrasonic/vibration collars produce an allegedly inaudible note that over times, becomes annoying enough to the dog to deter barking.

Electrical shock collars sting or shock the dog when the dog barks. We don't like them. Not only do we prefer positive reinforcement, but we also find that shock collars don't distinguish between normal barking and problematic barking. Ultimately, the collar punishes the dog for being a dog. We also don't like the fact that not all collars have a failsafe mechanism that shuts off after a certain time to prevent ongoing operation. Imagine if the dog get out of the yard or is lost and is stuck in the collar until the battery dies.

Combination collars use both sound and spray together, while escalation collars use low levels of output that increase gradually until the barking stops. Escalation devices are a bit more "sporting" in that they "reward" the dog for stopping sooner and give the dog a chance to learn by inhibiting barking before a greater response is dispensed.

Debarking (which is illegal in the UK) is intended to lower the volume of a dog's bark by surgically reducing tissue in the dog's vocal chords. Some vets use a punch to remove tissue, others make cuts, while still others use a laser. The dog can still bark but sounds "hoarse.' In some dogs, scar tissue can form and the dog will bark louder than when first debarked. This is a hotly debated topic in some circles, particularly in light of a move around the country by animal rights groups to outlaw debarking. Some people find the sound of a debarked dog more annoying than an actual bark, others find it to be their only option when faced with a pathological barker, neighbors threatening civil action and animal control breathing down their neck.

We don't always get perfect dogs, but I haven't met one yet who wasn't worth the effort, time and patience.

S.E.Szeremy is a writer and creator of KnobNots.com [http://knobnots.com/] (the Friendly Alternative to Beware of Pet) and BabyKnobNots.com [http://www.babyknobnots.com/] (Keep the Peace So Baby Can Sleep). She's been an owner/handler/breeder of Pulik since 1978.

After you've housebroken your dog, he needs to learn four behaviors to be a well-mannered pet. You can't teach them to him all at once, however. Focus on one behavior for a week or so. If your dog is mastering one behavior, add another.

If you have the time, work with your dog twice a day for about 15 minutes. "All work and no play," applies to him as well. Use your dog's leash and training collar during each training session.

1. Sit. This is usually the easiest behavior for your dog to learn, and most trainers start with it. There are two ways to teach it, but both involve you taking the slack of the leash with your right hand. Don't pop the leash.

In method one, use your right hand to offer a treat slightly over and behind your pet's head. Give the command, "Sit." This will cause your dog to sit because he's off balance. Praise him and give him the treat. If you are training a puppy, use this method but without the training collar and leash.

In method two, you press your dog's rump, exerting gentle pressure down. The first few times he may not sit down completely, but praise him and give him a treat anyway.

Only say the command one time. Give your pet up to 30 seconds before trying again. He may want to think about it. If he doesn't sit, tell him, "No," and try again.

Develop a word to let you dog know that he doesn't have to sit anymore.

Called a "release" word, it's similar to the military term "at ease." Most

trainers just say, "OK."

2. Stay. "Stay" is a command used in conjunction with another, like sit. You are asking your dog to hold the position you put him in. After your dog learns "Stay" in relation to another particular command, it's easy for him to understand what to do when he's in a different position.

To teach your dog to "Stay," start by commanding your dog to sit at your side. Hold the slack leash in a straight up from his head. Hold an open palm in front of his nose and say "Stay." Step in front of your pet so you can block his forward motion. If he moves, give him the stop signal with your hand again, and repeat "Stay." If he stays, move back alongside him, wait a second, then praise him.

Once you get your dog to stay, build up time and distances slowly. When

you can get him to stay at the end of a six-foot lease, tug a little. If he

moves, correct him by telling him, "No.". Repeat and try again. Continue

to work on this with a 20-foot retractable leash if you want.

3. Come. This is probably the most important command you'll teach your dog, because a loose dog can easily be injured or killed. Knowing this command could literally save your pet's life. Many dog owners think this is the hardest thing to teach your dog, but actually it's the easiest! All you have to do is ask your dog to sit while he's on the leash, call his name, say "Come," and praise him when he comes to you. Use longer and longer leashes over time, and your dog will come when called.

So why is it that so many dogs bolt out open front doors and take off for the hills? Some dogs are bored. If your pet isn't stimulated enough, he'll head for the places that he smells may have more entertainment - like your neighbor's yard with its inviting trash cans. Keeping your dog stimulated helps.

Mostly, bolting dogs that won't come back to their owners are the result of poor dog owner training. Your pet, having been mightily scolded for tearing off down the street, narrowly escaping speeding cars, chasing the neighbor's cat and knocking over trash cans, knows he'll be in big trouble. The key is, once you've cornered the escapee, DO NOT scold him or yell at him. As hard as it is, try not to show him your anger or fear. Squat down, open your arms, and every time he moves toward you, praise him more. It is important to never, ever correct or punish a dog that comes to you, even if it's too late for the trash cans. Try positive methods instead like commanding him to sit - most dogs do this well. Some errant dogs respond to their owners running away from them.

Other dogs don't know the "Come" command. That's because you probably just call your dog's name to have him come to you. It's important to use the "Come" command daily around the house.

If you really are a remedial dog owner trainee, your dog won't come because you haven't been training him or showing him that you are the leader of the pack. Your dog has to respect you and know what you expect of him to listen to your commands.

Be sure to train your dog to "Come" under all kinds of circumstances, including when other animals are present, when there are a lot of distractions, and in different settings. If you don't teach your dog anything else, teach him to come to you for his own safety.

4. Off. This command teaches your pet not to jump on people or furniture. Your pet will try to do jump on people to elevate his order in the pack - it's normal dog behavior. It's up to you to remind him that you are the leader. Keep your dog's leash on him when he's in the house. When he jumps up on you or other people, snap the leash to engage the slip collar, and say, "Off." Praise your dog when he stops jumping.

This is the same command you use when you want your dog off a piece of furniture. Simply take him by the collar, say, "Off," lead him off the sofa and praise him. Remember, if you let your dog on your bed or furniture, it's important to remind him that he has to be invited. If he jumps up next to you uninvited, be consistent with the "Off" command.

You'll notice a difference almost immediately. Don't stop the daily training sessions. He needs reminders, just like humans do!

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

Dog food aggression is one of those dog behavior problems that is difficult for us humans to fully understand. It just doesn't seem to make sense that your dog would consider you a threat to his/her food resource. I mean you gave him the food in the first place, and if you feed your dog's the same kinds of foods that I do, it's not all that appealing anyway!

But, what is your dog thinking?

If your dog glares at you, snarls, growls and positions himself between you and the food he is actually saying to you "this is mine, go away, find your own". He is basically telling you that he considers himself as the leader or alpha dog in your household. Dog food aggression (sometimes called canine possession aggression) is a dominance issue, it is serious and needs to be addressed immediately, it won't just go away.

We've all made the mistake of laughing and even encouraging our feisty little dogs when they first display the "cute" signs of dog food aggression. Don't fall into this trap! Food or toy aggression in dogs should never be tolerated as you never know when it can escalate into something more dangerous for you or a family member.

Why Does Your Dog Display Dog Food Aggression?

Canine possession aggression can be triggered by any number of factors but in most cases it can be attributed to one of these common causes:

Your dog is desperate for this food, in his mind he doesn't know if or when he will get more food. Therefore he protects or guards his food, just like he would have done in a pack situation in the wild.

Your dog may begin to see you as someone who is always taking good stuff away. He comes to view you more as a threat than a provider (you've got to turn this thinking around).

Dog food aggression can be part of the general confusion regarding who the leader is in your owner - dog relationship. Often it is not an isolated incident, it's something you need to rectify.

It's possible that your dog doesn't even understand that his dog food aggression is unacceptable behavior. In such cases there is an obvious communication breakdown between human and dog.

General Rules For Correcting Food Aggression In Dogs

If your dog is directing his aggression towards other dogs the best solution is to simply separate them at meal times. Feed them in different rooms or in their crates.

Involve all of your family members in this dog food aggression training.

Take control of feeding time. You control the time and place of dinner time - own the food!

Make your dog earn any food. Just simple tasks like sit or a down stay is fine.

Make it clear to your young puppies that it's good to have people around when they are eating. If you do this from day one you will almost certainly prevent dog food aggression problems.

If you encounter dog food aggression it is a good idea to feed your dog after you and your family eat. This again is a throwback to your dogs pack mentality where the alpha dog or leader of the pack (which is you) eats first - your dog will understand this technique.

Don't let your dog "win" the food through his growling, this would reward the very behavior you are trying to eradicate. Don't bully or intimidate your dog though, it's much better to make him actually like having you around at meal time (follow the tips below to achieve this).

Never respond to canine possession aggression with aggression of your own. In essence what this does is to lock you and your dog into a battle of wills. Your dogs next move will most likely be to step up his level of aggression to counter your action.

Dog Food Aggression Training Techniques

Firstly, be careful. If you believe your dog poses any real physical threat to you or family members I'd advise getting professional help. Speak to a professional dog trainer or animal behaviorist.

Below is a list of training techniques which could help your dog overcome his dog food aggression. Remember all of these techniques are designed to work towards reconditioning your dog to enjoy having you around anytime. Mix it up, show your dog who is boss.

Hand feed your dogs, even stick your hands into your dogs bowl while he is eating.

Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing for you to be around.

Stand at a distance your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance over time. You can flick a few treats in (or near) the bowl as you slowly reduce the distance.

Put your dogs bowl down with nothing in it, your dog will look back at you as though you are crazy. He'll then literally beg you to come over and fill his bowl.

Feed your dog as normal but hold back a few pieces of his meal. When he is finished licking the bowl, he'll look back up at you, then you can come over and give him the remaining food.

Drop a few of your dogs very favorite treats into his bowl each time you walk past it. After a while of this your dog will welcome the sight of you approaching the bowl.

When your dog is eating, call him over to you, when he gets to you reward him, make it worth his while then let him back to the food bowl.

While you are preparing your dogs meal put him in a down-stay or sit position, only release him from your command once you have put his bowl down. By doing this you are controlling meal time and establishing (or re-establishing) your role as your dogs leader.

Work with another family member on this technique. Put your dog in his collar and leash and have him sit with your helper while you prepare the food. When you are ready release your dog and allow him his food. Again you are controlling the situation.

Try the "Trade Up Method". What you do is take away the food or toy your dog is guarding, and replace it with something better. You can use an obedience command such as "give" or "leave it" to encourage your dog to release the precious resource he is guarding. You then take this resource (the food or toy) and give the trade up item to your dog. Once your dog has finished with the new item, you can then give back the resource you took away. This technique proves to your dog that he will receive something great for giving something up, it will recondition his thinking.

Every time you are with your dog have him in a pinch or prong collar with a leash attached. Whenever he displays any signs of dog food aggression you immediately administer a correction to your dog by snapping on the leash. What this does to your dog is build a negative association to the act of his food guarding antics.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Discover how to train your dog the right way yourself at home - try these latest cutting edge dog training techniques.

Aggression is one of the main reasons that dogs are euthanised or rehomed; at least 30% of all dogs in rescue centres are there because of the incidence of aggressive behaviour in one form or another. It is actually unusual to have a dog that is aggressing to have just one type of aggression; most dogs have more than one of the following types of behaviour.

It would be prudent, before embarking on a program of aggressive behaviour modification, to rule out any medical reasons for that behaviour, especially if there is a sudden change in the dog's temperament. Their are some fifty-odd different medical reasons why a dog may be showing aggressive tendencies, these range from Pain to Thyroid Dysfunction, Epilepsy to Hypoglycaemia and Diabetes.

The following is a list of the more common aggressions and why they may be occurring. This is only a part of the total types. Because of the constraints of space it can only be a fleeting reference.

1. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Interdog)

Quite often, this behaviour has its roots directly to the pup's mother. Breeders that breed from fearful and timid bitches will often make excuses as to why you cannot see the dam. If you do view a litter of puppies and the mother is fearful, then do not even think of buying the puppy. It will be almost a certainty that the pups will inherit some of the mother's traits, through both genetics and socialisation, genetically the pups may inherit her timidity and through the time they are with her will observe her fear and follow suit.

Scientific research has shown that even the pups that are born to a solid and stable mother that are then put with a bitch that is fearful, they will pick up some of the unstable habits from the fearful dog. Other reasons for this fear type of problem is when the puppy or adult dog is attacked by another dog, especially whilst on the lead, with no means of escape and restricted from showing submissive body language to the attacker.

Lack of early socialisation can also have an affect on this type of behaviour, If the young pup, especially between the age of seven and sixteen weeks, is not carefully socialised with both adult and pups alike, then they do not learn to "meet and greet". The complex body language dogs learn at this age is crucial to their later behaviour when approaching unknown dogs. If they are unable to either perform or understand the greeting rituals, then they are immediately viewed with suspicion by the approaching dog, and conflict may arise

How can you tell if it is fear?

With nervous and fear aggressive dogs, you will find that they will react aggressively to any dog, regardless of whether it is male or female. The behaviour is often worse if the dog is on the lead or is cornered, especially if close to the owner, who backs up the behaviour, (though unwittingly) by becoming nervous and agitated as the other dog approaches.

This manifests itself in a tightening up on the lead and shoulders. Nervous owners also kick out a cloud of adrenaline that the dog instantly detects, this causes it to look for what is causing the concern. It sees the dog approaching and reacts accordingly. This type of dog is also normally a barker, it will lunge and bark at the approaching dog but generally will not snap unless all its options have run out. ie flight or freeze and after all its threat posturing the other dog has still got too close.

This problem can often be diagnosed if someone who is confident around dogs (that the dog does not know well) takes it out on the lead. It will not get the same fearful vibes from the owner, therefore the reaction to another dogs approaching will be less intense. It is a good way of finding out if your dog suffers fear aggression, as the behaviour will either not be exhibited or will be less pronounced. The owner can then use a desensitisation program for both the dog and themselves.

2. Fear / Nervous Aggression (Inter-human)

Once again, this can be caused through lack of early socialisation, bad breeding and sometimes lack of handling at an early age, starting as young as two weeks old. Pups that are not handled gently and often by the breeder do not get a strong olfactory and tactile bond with humans. This is often the case with puppy farmed dogs and dogs born to large breeders. This handling at such an early age causes a mild stress response in the tiny pup, which benefits its ability to cope with many situations including people and dogs in later life

Nervous and fear aggressing is always defensive in nature, sometimes it is related to the sex of the person. If the breeder was female, and very few males visited or handled the puppies, then the timidity and fear may be worse with men. This particular problem like interdog hostility, will manifest itself mainly with individuals rather than crowds.

You will find that the dog will bark a lot but will be under a table or behind a settee. The tail will be down and although it may seem overtly aggressive, the dogs balance and weight will be on the back foot not over the front feet. This demonstrates that the dog wants you to go away and is not initially trying to bite or attack you. A gradual and careful introduction to the stimulus that is causing the fear with positive reinforcement for calm behaviour is the way to overcome this type of problem though the dog will rarely make a total and full recovery and will never be life and soul of the park and greeting parties.

3. Frustration Aggression

Research has shown that dogs who are not allowed to interact "normally" with people and dogs who were prone to displays of bad temper and behaviour that was overtly aggressive are dogs that are generally restrained or restricted from normal interactions (interactions with people, other dogs, and the outside world). The dog develops an intense desire to gain access to all of those things he desires.

This desire can escalate into escape and roaming behaviour, agitation, biting and unprovoked attacks. It is often observed in dogs that are left tied up in flats, left in gardens, or near a window where they can see the things they want to interact with, but cannot get to them therefore display unprovoked aggression. To some extent, the aggression shown to the postman is based on frustration. I have seen dogs attack their owner or a second dog in the home because it cannot get to the deliveryman.

As with most aggressive behaviours early socialisations and an understanding of how dogs learn and communicate are essential.

4. Sexual aggression.

This type of aggression is usually limited to male dogs. They will mount both people and other dogs. Mounting activity directed towards humans may reflect a lack of opportunity for the dog to play with other dogs, or an over-attachment to people in early life, mounting on other dogs especially if they initially try to put their heads over the other dog's necks can be related to rank and control complex behaviour. Castration and behaviour modification can help with this problem. Allowing the dog to mate may often be recommended by the amateur dog expert, this normally makes the problem far worse.

5 Territorial Aggression

This may be towards other dogs, people or both. By definition, territorial aggression should be directed toward members of the same species ie other dogs. Domestic dogs, however, seem to regard humans in this regard as conspecific, and consequently may direct territorial aggression toward us When dogs display aggression to strangers only on the home property garden, house, or yard, yet do not respond aggressively to strangers on neutral territory, then territorial aggression is the likely diagnosis. There are two primary motivations for territorial behaviour, control complex behaviour ie dominance or fear/anxiety. It may be worse in a small space such as a car than in an open area. Some dogs like this can be fine in the home, but not so good in the garden.

The only answer to this problem is to work on the dominant/territorial problem in a way in which a dog understands its position through a behaviour modification programme using position reinforcement techniques. Remember not to praise for the cessation of bad behaviour rather praise for that bad behaviour not happening in the first place. In other words, say the dog jumps up on someone and you say "OFF" if the dogs get off then do not praise as you will be praising for the inappropriate behaviour, which was the jumping.

6. Control Complex / Dominant Aggression

The word dominant is a dirty word in dog behavioural circles at present however if we understand the word means position and is much more complex that just aggression, then to ignore this area of conflict would be remiss. The initial approach to other dogs is often cautionary and contains many status signals, like tail carriage held high and quickly moving from side to side, standing on tiptoe etc. If the other dog submits, then all is usually fine, if not the fighting can be extremely noisy and in some cases quite severe. In both the last two examples, dominant and territorial aggression, I usually find the dog will pull quite badly on the lead. These dogs can also display aggressive tendency towards members of the family this could lead to an attack if not controlled in their early stages. By working on a programme that will give the dog a purpose and a position in life, almost a job and teaching the dog to walk on a loose leash can sometimes overcome the problem. The type of program I would use is the NILIF program, which stands for "Nothing in Life is Free", See my website under dominance

7. Chase or Predatory aggression

This can be directed at many things including dogs, cats, or anything that stimulates a chase response. Squirrels are a favourite, as their quick jerky movements seem to stimulate even the most placid of dogs. I see a lot of predatory chase aggression in for instance Border Collies, in particular stimulants like bikes, skateboards joggers and cars.

One of the key factors that distinguish predatory aggression from other forms of aggression is that movement often is the trigger . In the wild, this movement is in the form of running and escape attempts of a small animals. Predatory behaviour can be seen in dogs of any sex and age.

Dogs that show intense interest and become aroused or anxious by the movement or noise of children or other pets should be closely monitored at all times. Prognosis is not good for this type of aggression. Reward based obedience training can help, however this is only any use if the owner/trainer is able to constantly monitor the dog at all times.

It is easier to control the chase stimulus when it is directed at cars, joggers, or bikes. Two types of common treatment's include counter-conditioning used to change the dogs' perception of the falsely identified prey. Many also believe punishment works ie noise aversion when the behaviour is first stimulated. Throwing water from a car window or sounding a rape alarm or air horn at the exact time the dog takes off, throwing down a plastic bottle of stones from a passing bike or car can sometimes alter this behaviour.

However. To be effective, punishment must be seen as aversive and the timing of the punishment must be exact so that the dog associates the punishment with the behaviour. Electric shock collars have also been suggested but are not part of treatment programs I would ever recommend.

As mentioned aggression often has its origins in bad breeding, lack of socialisation, high prey drive, and poor basic training can also exacerbate the situation. However, as stated before it can be related to medical conditions and before embarking on a course of behavioural therapy have your dog checked over to see if there are any underlying medical conditions.

Learned aggression can normally be cured however, hereditary aggression cannot, it can only be controlled and hopefully contained. Castration sometimes helps, and should be considered in an overall aggression reduction program. With all aggression cases, you should consider a behaviourist or a dog trainer experienced in these problems, before the problems becomes life threatening either to the dog or the person they are aggressing against.

Stan Rawlinson (Doglistener)
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.

Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, K9 Magazine, Shooting Times and Pet Owner Magazine. Stan is also the behavioural consultant for Disney

? Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail: enquiries@doglistener.co.uk

Now comes the most challenging part of having a dog, or dogs, and a baby. This is when all of the training you have done to date comes into play and will make your life much easier and more enjoyable for all. The following article will teach you how to get your dog used to your newborn baby.

Coming Home For the First Time

The first step in this process is your arrival home from the hospital. If you do this the right way your dog will be more likely to accept your new baby.

When you come home from the hospital, have mom enter first, alone with something of baby's, such as a blanket or clothes the baby has worn. This allows your dog to smell the new "thing" that will be coming into the house, making it less alien to him. Have dad hold baby outside so that your dog can greet her and start to calm down before the baby comes in the house. Then, have mom go outside and hold the baby while dad goes in to greet the dog. It is ok for your dog to get a little excited, but make sure you get him calm before the baby comes in to the house. If mom and dad are calm and relaxed when they enter it will transfer to the dog and put him at ease a little faster. Do not make a big deal out of the greeting, but make it a happy one! Put the dog on leash and make him sit and stay so you have control when mom and baby enter. When your dog has calmed, come in the house with the baby. Do not let the dog jump on anyone, especially baby! If he does, give him a firm correction verbally and with a quick jerk on the leash. Do not use any harsh punishments unless the dog becomes a threat to the baby. Do not hit your dog! If you believe that the situation is too much for the dog to handle, put him in his crate or gate him in a room. When the dog is calm, allow him to sniff baby's feet. Be very careful not to let the dog too close to the baby's face at first because he could accidentally hurt the baby if he jumps or licks too hard. Basically, keep control of him at all times and the likelihood of something bad happening will be minimal. Do make sure that you praise your dog for good behavior. You can also give him high value treats for the good behavior.

Even by following the above procedures your dog may still be "jealous", even though dogs really don't have that emotion. They do understand when the attention has diminished or completely gone away. Make sure to still give your dog attention when possible! Make special time for him just as you did before the baby came home. Set up time to play with and give attention to him when the baby is around and is not around. This shows your dog that he is still a part of the family and will still get attention. It also teaches him to share the attention with the baby. This may seem like a tough task to achieve because you will not have much energy due to the demands a baby places on you, but it is vital!

How Your Dog Should Act Around the Baby

Have your dog sit or lay down when he is near the baby. This will assist in the process of teaching the dog "gentle" and promote calm behavior around the baby. Keeping the leash on in the house will allow you to have the extra control over your dog that you may need. Make sure to only have the leash on the dog when you are home and able to supervise, otherwise the dog could get injured from the leash. You can also use the leash to teach your dog to walk slowly around the baby. Make sure to praise when he is doing what you want.

It is very important for your dog to respect your baby. When your baby is young you need to be the one to make your dog have respect for your baby. Making the dog be gentle and do down-stays around the baby helps to teach the dog to respect the infant. As your child grows you can have your child interact and do different activities with your dog to teach your dog that the child is higher in the pack than he is.

When to Pay Attention to Your Dog

Good times to give your dog attention when you have your baby out are when the baby is in his or her swing, on a blanket, or while you are feeding baby (if you can juggle both tasks at once!). You can give your dog treats during every aspect of dealing with the baby, such as while you are feeding, while you are changing, holding or playing with your baby. Again, this will teach your dog to accept all of the different things that you will be doing with your baby.

Do not push the dog away if he shows attention to the new baby. Make sure to keep all baby experiences positive, when possible, using praise and the high value treats. Encourage the calm, gentle behavior around your baby so that he understands the right way to be with the baby. If you ignore your dog when the baby is out it can cause feelings of neglect in your dog. This can lead to bad attention seeking behaviors such as stealing things that aren't his, jumping, nipping or barking. Realize that both your dog and baby will still need individual attention.

A good way to pay attention to your dog is by taking him out for a walk or play. It is very important for your dog to get plenty of exercise daily. If your dog does not receive this necessity, he will become out of control and a pain in the you-know-what!

Help! My Dog Steals From My Baby and Knocks Over Her Highchair!

One thing that drives me crazy is a dog that steals from the baby or knocks into baby equipment. Teaching your dog to keep a slight distance away from the equipment will avoid accidents. Please do not let your dog jump on or paw at the equipment. This is especially important because the dog can knock over swings, strollers and high chairs inadvertently. Do not allow your dog to climb into the baby equipment or lay on the baby blankets or clothes. Your dog will leave hair and dirt in and on them and could damage the equipment. It also sets up the possibility of your dog attempting to do this when your baby is in it! Your dog could hurt or suffocate your baby if he lies on, or steps on your baby.

Please keep your dog away from the high chair! Do not let her clean the food up off the chair or the ground. This will eventually lead to a dog that jumps on the chair and steals food. Whether or not your baby is in the chair, this is not a good behavior to allow!

Nursing and Bottle Feeding

Nursing or bottle feeding is a special time for you and your baby. It is also a time when your dog may become a pest while trying to get your attention. This is a good time to use the "high value treats" to reward the dog for good behavior and to teach the dog that this is a pleasant time, not a time when the dog should feel slighted for a lack of attention.

You can also utilize the down-stay on the dog's "spot" or at your feet while feeding so that the dog is under complete control, yet still near you and the baby.

Your Bedroom Is a Calm Place

If you plan to have your baby sleep in your bedroom, as many people do, and your dog is allowed in there, your dog needs to learn the proper behavior of being calm and easy in there. Keep the dog away from the bassinet and off of your bed. Many people have the baby in bed with them for sleeping or feeding and you don't want your dog to step on or lay on the baby, as this could cause injury. You can teach your dog to come on your bed only when invited, if you choose. Make sure that your dog is always lying down when on your bed so you avoid any possible negative situations. On the same note, teach your dog to get off of your bed when told to do so. It is feasible to have your dog and your baby on your bed at the same time if you are careful and pay attention at all times!

Car Rides With the Baby

It is important to teach your dog how to ride in the car with you and your baby. Your dog probably already knows how to take a car ride, but it becomes a different experience with a baby in the car. Do not allow him to sit in the same seat as your baby because you do not have control over the dog while you are driving. Unwanted things can happen, such as stepping on the baby, nipping the baby, or licking the baby when the dog is too close. Babies also make sudden movements and noises and these may startle your dog. If you have the space in the back of your vehicle, it is a good idea to put the dog there. If you can get the dog used to this before your baby arrives it will be much easier for him to handle having the baby in the car, making it less likely for him to feel neglected. If you do not have room in the back, invest in a dog seatbelt or dog seat (for smaller dogs) and have your dog sit in the front seat when possible. Being able to take your baby and your dog out together can be very enjoyable for all involved!

What to Do If Your Dog Is Not Ready to Be With Your Baby

If your dog growls when it is around the baby, he is not ready to be with the baby. Do not punish your dog for growling! When your dog growls, he is trying to tell you that he is not comfortable with the situation. This is a warning that should be heeded as biting may come next! He is giving you a very important message! If you punish him for growling he will learn that growling is unacceptable and you will no longer have a warning of what may happen if he is not given the opportunity to go away from the baby. This can turn an avoidable incident to a potentially dangerous situation, such as biting.

Taking the extra effort to teach your dog to be around your baby will ensure that he grows to accept the baby and learns that your baby is a part of the family, just as your dog is. He will soon believe that the baby is one of his favorite humans! Your child and your baby will most likely grow to be very close as time goes on!

Mandy Makein is an author and dog trainer. For free dog training report visit http://www.stopdogjump.com/

(c) Copyright Mandy Makein 2010. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

Is your dog pushy, shy, submissive, demanding, or aggressive? Chances are that you've got a dog that could benefit from strong, fair leadership on your part. This program is a non-confrontational way of asserting yourself as a leader of the pack! Training should be fun and stress free, not an ongoing battle with your dog. Every pack needs a leader, and at minimum one dog plus one human equals a pack. Someone needs to take that leadership role and that leader should be you. Dogs are much happier without the "weight of the world" on their shoulders, being a leader is stressful and they'd much rather let you take the reigns and make the rules. Many common behavior problems can be directly related to a lack of leadership on the owner's part. Your dog will be ten times more likely to obey your commands when it really counts if he sees you as his leader. Without that respect, he will likely ignore you, so this is a valuable goal to work on and will make all the difference in how well trained your dog is.

Now don't worry, you don't need to be a Drill Sergeant to be a leader, in fact you should be having fun with your dog! Dogs judge "rank" through small, daily interactions not big battles. This makes it easy for you to integrate 'house rules' into your daily life that will have a profound impact on how your dog views your relationship.

Say Please: No more freebies, your dog will have to start working for what he wants. Well mannered dogs "say please", that means they Sit or Down for treats, meals, throw of the ball, going outside, etc. No more rushing the food dish or bolting out doorways, make use of the commands your dog already knows to manage his behavior. Use your interactions with your dog as training opportunities and you'll find that you practice commands many times through out the day without needing to set aside 20 or 30 minutes.

Furniture: Snoozing on the sofa is a privilege, not a right. And many dogs simply haven't earned that right yet. If your dog is non-aggressive then you can allow him up ONLY with permission. Insisting that he "say please" and sit or down first will ensure that he knows the sofa is yours, not his. Any attempts at sneaking up should be met with an unemotional off as you guide him off with the leash or collar.

Aggressive dogs should not be allowed on furniture without first being taught how to get off on command. Period. If your dog acts aggressively when on furniture (or when you are on 'his' furniture) then set your dog up for success and simply deny him permission onto the furniture. He very clearly is telling you that he is not ready for that privilege yet. Maybe someday. But not now. Keeping a leash on the dog in house will make it easy for you to guide him off should he sneak up, without risking a bite.

Attention: This is by far the hardest rule for most families. It's very common to pet the dog without even realizing that we're doing so. But in dog language petting and fussing over a dog often can be considered a submissive behavior, and you certainly don't want your dog to think of you as submissive toward them! You can combat this by asking for a command prior to petting. You can lavish your dog with as much attention as you like, but make him WORK for it!

Any attempt by the dog to make you pet him (nose nudging, pawing, smacking you with a toy) should be ignored. In dog language he is saying 'Hey, human, PET ME NOW!" the dog is ordering you to pay attention to him and if you respond by petting or tossing the toy then you will have told your dog that he has you well trained. Ignore these outbursts and your dog will accept that you no longer obey his orders. Once he gives up and walks away then you can call him over, ask for a sit, THEN give him attention.

Remember, the attention itself is NOT the problem. Who initiates the interaction can cause the problem. Make it on your terms and your dog will respect you for it.

Leash Pulling: If your dog is walking you then he's probably got the wrong idea about who's the leader of your pack. Dogs should walk on your left and slightly behind you. No sniffing or peeing on walks, that can be done at will in your yard. Walks should be more of a training exercise then simply physical exercise. We recommend at least one 20 minute walk per day. This is good mental and physical stimulation. A tired dog is a more well behaved dog!

Crate Time: Many dogs will benefit from at least 3 hours of crate time per day. Having your dog follow you around the house all day may be cute, but it will also encourage separation anxiety, meaning your dog may panic or display destructive behaviors once you are out of sight. Even if you're home, give your dog some "alone time" in his crate and encourage him to be relaxed and calm on his own. It's a skill you'll be glad you've taught!

Important points

1) Enforce every command you give - Simply put, if you ask your dog to sit, lie down, off or whatever else you need to be prepared to follow though on that command should the dog ignore you. Giving a command and then allowing the dog to ignore it will greatly set back any training already done, and your dog will likely ignore you again the next time.

If a command is given, make it happen.

2) Leash your dog! In the house! Yes, in the house. If your dog has a habit of ignoring commands, being aggressive or in general giving you the doggy version of the finger, give yourself an easy way to take control of situations by leaving a collar and 6 foot leash on the dog in the house. This eliminates the urge to chase a dog, grab the collar, or otherwise agitate an aggressive dog. It will save both you and your dog a lot of stress in the long run.

3) Being a strong leader for your dog should be a way of life, not something that is only done for a week or so and then forgotten about. You will get back from your dog what you put into his training. If you are consistent, your dog will be as well. Respect is earned, often through time and consistency. Don't be tempted to stop the 'house rules' once your dog shows improvement or the training you've done up to that point will simply be wasted and you'll be back to square one.

4) Have fun with your dog! Praise him for good behavior and enjoy the connection your making with your dog as your relationship improves. You are working toward a partnership with your canine companion, enjoy the journey just as much as the results.

Ann Griffin is the owner of http://www.CentralPetz.com an online resource for pet owners to find training and behavior articles, forums and training information.

Hamsters are omnivorous, so the choices of hamster food are plentiful. Fruits and vegetables are excellent on a continuing basis with some grain added occasionally. Hamsters are usually easy to please, so they will eat just about anything they are given. This makes it important that they are provided nutritional meals.

Feeding time for the hamster is usually in the morning or evening, but unless one has particular eating habits, it doesn't matter when they are fed. During the day, a domesticated hamster will nap during the day and wake about every two hours to eat. Dwarf hamsters seem to eat about as much as other hamsters.

In the wild, hamsters feed by scavenging at night and bringing the food back to their lair where they accumulate as much as they can find. They typically do their eating during their rest times in their lair, napping and waking much the same as they do when they are in captivity.

How much hamster food is necessary for a particular animal will depend on its eating habits. A rule of thumb for quantity is about a teaspoon of food per day. There are many manufacturers of good foods, but all diets should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables as mentioned before.

Because the hamster loves gnawing, a good practice is to give it cat or dog biscuits occasionally, in small quantities of course. This supplies added protein and contributes to grinding the teeth as necessary.

A special treat as hamster food is boiled eggs. Although, these can only be given now and then, the added protein is a boost, especially to new mothers. Only supply small amounts of egg, and be sure to remove any uneaten bits to keep them from spoiling.

Like humans, hamsters eat meat, and this has been a debated issue for as long as people have kept the animal as a pet. It is conjecture that by feeding a hamster meat, it can lead to cannibalism. This has never been proven, and most owners give theirs small amounts of beef, mutton, or dog foods containing meat. It is not recommended to feed them pork.

Due to their hoarding tendencies, many owners don't feel it is necessary to place food on a plate because the hamster will just take it to a hiding place. This can be true of an animal that is new to domestication, but most will view the area that holds their food as their stash and won't have any reason to move it somewhere else.

If hamster food is kept in a container, it is easier to monitor the eating habits of the animal. If there are some items it doesn't like, they will remain in the dish, and if not essential, those items can be taken off the diet. It is also much easier to tell the amount of food the hamster eats when the food is put in one central location.

If you truly wish to find out more about hamster food, then you must visit the best resource on the internet. Go to this site immediately: http://smartdwarfhamster.com

Whether you have a small terrier or a bigger retriever for a pet, giving your canine pets some treats from time to time will make them happier and healthier in the long run. Among the best treats you can give your canine pets are dog toys. These toys may be made from rubber, plush materials, rawhide, or from artificial bone. Some of these toys may come with squeakers or noisemakers, giving your dog greater delight and enjoyment during playtime.

 

Reviewing pet toys in the market

 

There are toys available for a range of pets, so it is important for you to know which toys are ideal for your dogs. There are pet toys designed for cats, dogs, parrots, hamsters, and even exotic pets such as hedgehogs. Toys keep your pets entertained and are also ideal for dogs that love to chew. Before setting out to buy toys for your canine pets, it will help a lot to know beforehand which materials are safest and which toys are suitable for the specific breed that you have.

 

Which toys should you buy for your dogs?

 

Dog toys are made from a selection of materials, including rubber, plush, plastic, and rawhide. Since most dogs love to chew and bite into their toys, you have to make sure that they are durable enough. There are also toys ideal for playtime, such as Frisbees and tennis toys. These toys often come in an array of sizes so choosing the right size for a particular dog breed is very important. Also, many of the toys ideal for puppies may not work well with bigger dogs, and vice-versa. Dogs may have special needs as well during specific stages in their lives. Teething dogs may do best with artificial bones, for example.

 

The safety factor

 

When buying pet toys, you also have to make safety considerations. Some toys may be made from hazardous materials and could pose potential health risks to your pets if left unchecked for a long time. As your pet grows in size and begins to mature, make sure that you also monitor their toys. A small toy perfect for a puppy can easily choke a bigger dog. The toys should also be chosen depending on the jaw strength of your dog. There are small breed dogs that have powerful jaw strength and are therefore fine with toys suitable for bigger breeds.

 

One of the things that you also have to look out for is whether the toys come with removable or moving parts. Some toys may have moving parts as part of their attraction, but they can be potentially hazardous to your pets. These removable parts may be swallowed by your pet and may also cause choking accidents. With the many variations in toy designs, materials, and sizes for your pet, it is important to spend some time looking into the actual needs of your pet first before making any purchase. This will help you find safe, enjoyable, and budget-friendly toys your pets will surely enjoy.

 

Jeffry Johnston is a freelance writer who has been involved in the dog show circuit for more than 15 years. Johnston began keeping animals and has a deep love for dogs especially. To learn more about pet toys and dog toys, please visit PetStore.com today.

Has a new puppy recently become a member of your family? Puppies are born with instincts, but not with the knowledge of how to behave. Therefore, it is necessary to teach your new puppy appropriate behaviors and also some fun tricks. You can try to do this yourself or you can enlist the help of a dog school.

There are many different types of dog schools available. What dog school would be the best for your dog? Things to consider when searching for a dog school include: the age of your dog, the breed, the personality, and what it is that you want your dog to learn.

Let's focus first on what you want your dog to learn. Do wish to have your dog learn basic obedience commands such as "sit" and "stay"? Do you want to learn practice drills you can do with your dog at home such as keeping them from begging for food at the dinner table? Then local dog schools will best meet your needs.

Local dog schools can be found at community colleges, city recreation centers, through pet stores, and even through private dog schools. You can opt to take a group class with up to twenty other dogs. These types of dog schools are often less expensive and meet in a local park. They meet once or twice week for a few weeks. You can have fun teaching your dog new commands as well as let them socialize with fellow dogs.

Local dog schools can offer more advanced dog training classes as well. Perhaps your dog has mastered the basic commands and you want to teach them how to hold a piece of food on their nose for a specified amount of time and then flip it into their mouth. You can find dog schools that have fun, exciting advanced classes where you and your dog can bond.

You may consider having your dog compete in dog shows. Maybe you purchased your dog from an established breeder that has determined your dog has champion DNA in their pedigree. If so then you should look into more in depth dog schools that are focused specifically and dog handling/showing. You can find these through breeders and the American Kennel Club. You can search for dog training materials and resources on the American Kennel Club website at:

http://akc.org/

On a different note, maybe you want your dog to become a service dog or guide dog for the blind. Dogs that perform these jobs have to go to specific guide dog training schools. These special dog schools are necessary because there are very detailed requirements and commands that a guide dog must learn. These types of dog schools will also provide the support, knowledge, and training necessary to make your dog a successful guide dog.

There are many guide and service dog schools around the world to train your dog. You can find these schools through your breeder, groomer, and veterinarian. You can also find information about these dog schools through the Internet. A comprehensive listing is available by Wolf Packs - List of Service Dog Schools and Information. You can find this on their website at: http://wolfpacks.com/serviced.htm/

Once you have determined what you want your dog to learn then you can narrow down your search of dog schools by taking into account your dog's age, personality, and breed. Do you have a young puppy that is large like a Great Dane? Or do you have tiny new Bichon Frise that weighs in at only 4 pounds? Find out the type of dogs that are allowed into the dog training class.

Will the dog training class be filled with many large dogs that might scare your little Bichon Frise? Or are there dog classes available that are separated by age and weight? It is a good idea to be aware of this information before you sign your dog up for classes. You want to provide them the best experience possible and not have them cower when it is time to head to dog class each week.

Another consideration when choosing between dog schools is the amount of one-on-one attention. Is your dog very active and can't sit still during group training sessions? Many dog schools offer private classes. Sometimes the dog trainer will even come to your home to give you and your pooch lessons.

Picking among dog schools is also reliant upon the price and schedule flexibility of the classes. Run a price and schedule comparison on dog schools in your area. This will help you to discover a dog school that fits your schedule, your dog's personality, and meets your budget.

Choosing between dog schools is an important decision that will set your dog on the path to obedience success. Take your time and choose wisely so that both you and your canine buddy have a memorable, enjoyable dog training experience.

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