Archive for the ‘Rabbits’ Category

There are several essential facts about rabbits and cages that you must be familiar with if you are planning to successfully raise a healthy bunny rabbit. There are two options when it comes to supplying a home for your bunny: an inside rabbit cage or an out-of-doors bunny rabbit hutch. Generally, pets are raised indoors and bunny rabbits kept for meat are kept out-of-doors. However, pet bunny rabbits can easily be successfully raised outdoors if there is not enough space in the house.

You need to be familiar with a few facts about rabbits if you want to keep your rabbits outdoors and are planning to buy or make a hutch. An outdoor hutch is usually made in the nature of a square or rectangular room. Three sides are normally constructed from wood while the fourth is wire. The base will also be made with wire while the covering (roof needs to be solid and detachable for trouble-free cleanup. The bunny hutch will usually be positioned on four legs made of wood which serve a number of purposes. First of all, it keeps the inside clean by letting the droppings fall through the wire floor. Next, it can keep the rabbit away from predators. Third, it makes it less time-consuming to clean. And lastly, it will protect them from inclement weather such as rain or snow, and also from direct sun.

One benefit of a hutch as opposed to an inside bunny cage is that you will not have to clean up as much. If you do not clean an indoor cage each day it will usually cause unpleasant odors to build up, but these bad smells are usually not a big deal outside. If your residence is small, without adequate space to raise a pet bunny indoors, an outdoor bunny hutch is ideal. Pet rabbits can just as easily be kept outside.

One of the negative qualities of an outdoor rabbit hutch is that your rabbits will be exposed to foul weather conditions. Larger rabbits cope better than smaller-sized ones if the temperatures drop too low, and smaller-sized bunny rabbits might not live through exceptionally cold temperatures. Breeds with long ears may perhaps get their ears stuck on freezing wires which might cause damage to their ears or even death. Rabbits are ideally kept indoors, but in moderate climates it is quite acceptable to house them outdoors.

There are some facts about rabbits that you must be familiar with if you want to keep rabbits in an inside rabbit cage. There are two typical options when buying an inside rabbit cage: one level or two levels. Cages constructed with two levels include a ramp that allows a bunny to hop downstairs or upstairs as it so desires. This provides your pet with a bigger home while not needing any extra floor space. With this kind of cage a bunny will remain in better health as a result of the extra activity it will get running up and down the ramp.

Keeping your pet in your home offers two main advantages: You will not have to worry about poor weather conditions or predators. And in view of the fact that they are in your home, you will not be able to forget about them. You will be more apt to take them out of their cage and play with them or let them run around once in awhile, which is always a good thing to do. The negative side to this is that you must empty their litter container more frequently. It is not a huge task, but it needs to be done frequently.

This is what it all boils down to: if you want to be the owner of a rabbit you should preferably house it in an inside rabbit cage where you will be able to offer them a good deal more attention and affection. If you are going to keep rabbits for meat you will most likely want to keep them out-of-doors or in the garage.

Joshua has been a rabbit buff for several decades. He has amassed a large amount of awareness on the subject of bunnies and loves to share it with others. He has a web site where you will be able to discover useful facts about rabbits, strategies for raising bunnies, guidelines for making a rabbit cage, and more.

Every kid wants a pet. A great pet for kids to have is a rabbit. A rabbit is a small animal that does not require a lot of maintenance. They are easy to care for and feed. The main thing a pet rabbit wants from his owner is lots of love and a nice hutch to call his own. A hutch is a type of cage that is normally used to house domestic rabbits. You can also use a hutch to keep other small animals like guinea pigs or hamsters. In this article we will find out more about a rabbit hutch and what you should consider when getting one for your pet rabbit.

A rabbit hutch is a type of rabbit cage and rabbit hutches are available in a number of designs. A traditional rabbit hutch is made out of wood and wire. Normally the floor of the hutch is a combination of two materials, wood and wire. The floor is usually half made of wood and half made of wire. One of the walls may also be made of wire as this allows for ventilation. One half of the hutch is has a wire floor so that the rabbit can eat grass through the holes in the wire when the hutch is kept on the floor. The other half of the hutch has a separate compartment with a wooden floor that serves as the rabbit's nest and this is where he can stay protected from the elements. This compartment is also where the rabbit will be sleeping. A good idea is to fill up this compartment with straw so that the rabbit has a warm place to sleep.

When you are putting together you rabbit cage you should think about utility. If you are planning on keeping it indoors then you don't need to get a traditional wooden hutch with a half wire floor. Rabbits do not particularly like walking on wire and so they end up spending a lot of time in their compartment. Another thing you need to consider is cleanliness. Wood absorbs a lot of smell you can look into getting a rabbit hutch that has a metal floor and is easier to clean. Nowadays a lot of rabbit hutches are made from metal and fiber. These modern designs are great to use indoors. Some of them are so beautifully made that they can add a lot of charm to your front garden or back yard. You can look in to getting a hexagonal rabbit hutch made of wood.

Another thing to think about when you get your hutch is the size. Typically a rabbit hutch should be at least 1.5 times the size of the rabbit this will give the rabbit enough room to turn around in the cage. A lot of people prefer getting a cage that is twice as big as the rabbit so that it has more room to play. If you have room you can get a hutch that is thrice as big. Keep in mind that the larger the cage the more speed the animal can generate. If they get frightened they might hurt themselves by slamming into the sides.

n you get your rabbit hutch is the size. Typically a rabbit hutch should be at least 1.5 times the size of the rabbit this will give the rabbit enough room to turn around in the cage. A lot of people prefer getting a cage that is twice as big as the rabbit so that it has more room to play. If you h

For all you Rabbit Hutches, Rabbit Cage and Rabbit Run requirements for all the family

Some people love to have pets at home like dogs, cats, birds, fish and other animals. Others, especially kids love to consider rabbits for a pet. They can make wonderful pets but they also require a lot of special care.

If you want to have a rabbit for a pet, you should learn how to take good care of it. You should know what they eat, and you should provide for a good home or a rabbit hutch.

This pet can be placed indoor or outdoor. You can have your pet rabbit inside your house and let them roam around. But they are curious animals so building them a home outside may be a good idea. They love to dig and chew everything which could possibly put your rabbit and other belongings at risk. On the other hand, if you have your rabbits outside, you have to place your rabbit in a rabbit hutch. This can be a single story or double story with different designs that correspond with a rabbit hutch cover.

This is usually used for winter, not only to keep out from moisture but also to keep them warm. You have to remember that domestic rabbit is different from rabbits born in wild surroundings. Although they were placed on a rabbit hutch with cover, they don't do well in summer heat with extreme temperature. They might also suffer a heart attack or die of fear when they encounter some stray predators that will put their lives at risk. So even they were on the rabbit hutch with rabbit hutch cover, rabbits outdoor will not be guaranteed safety. But at least, the rabbit hutch will give them a little protection.

Rabbits love to eat nutritious food. It is possible to let your rabbit eat vegetables but it should be organic vegetables and not just any vegetable. Vegetables that are treated by chemicals or conventional-grown veggies can be toxic to rabbits. They should eat at least three (3) different vegetables each day. You can make it a vegetable salad if you want. The most favorite food of a rabbit are apples and bananas.

Besides for the nutritious food that you gave to your pet rabbit, you should give them plenty of water to drink. Why? Because insufficient water intake for the rabbit will give them a serious health problem like bladder stones. Drinking water for a rabbit can be put in a plastic bowl or in a sipper bottle. Some rabbits are used to drink their water from a bowl and it will take some time for them to get used to drink in a sipper bottle. Just be sure that you change the drinking water daily to give your rabbit a clean water to drink.

Consult your veterinarian on regular basis to make sure that your pet rabbit is surely healthy and in good condition.

Having a pet like a rabbit at home can be helpful. It could be a reliever for a stressful day. That is why it is important that you are knowledgeable on ways how to take care of them.

Davidd Warren enjoys writing for The Rabbit Hutch Shop which sells rabbit hutch cover and rabbit hutch as well as a host of additional products.

Some first-time rabbit owners, accustomed to thinking of rabbits as being more similar to a rat or gerbil than a dog or cat, are surprised to find out that rabbits are some of the most litter training-ready pets around. This is partly a function of their natural intelligence, which makes the receptive to training of all kinds, and also of their natural history. Feces and urine, of course, bear strong odors, and in the wild this is a major cue for predators who might fancy a rabbit for lunch. To better prevent detection by such predators, wild rabbits designate specific locations away from the nest as "bathrooms". This same instinct makes it a fairly simple matter to litter-train a house rabbit, requiring only a few litterboxes and some patience on the owner's part.

At the beginning of litter training, keep in mind that rabbits use their waste much the same as dogs do- to mark their territories and establish "ownership" of an area. When introduced to the unfamiliar environment of its new cage, your rabbit is likely to spread its droppings and urine over every available space. This is to be expected, and you should not make any effort to discourage this- the only effect punitive measures are likely to have is to make the rabbit less secure in its ownership of the cage, impelling it to continue its territory marking. For this same reason, you should try not to invade the cage space any more than necessary while the bunny is inside of it- try to save cleaning and other chores for when the rabbit is enjoying free time outside the cage. Similarly, you should avoid forcibly removing your rabbit from his cage, or physically placing him in it. Let it come and go at will, with some non-coercive "encouragement" if necessary.

Once the rabbit begins feeling secure in its new home, it should begin designating a certain spot as its preferred litter area. Once it has made up its mind, there's not much point in trying to convince it otherwise. Your best bet is to place its litterbox in the spot it has chosen. Including some hay, and perhaps a small treat, will encourage the rabbit to explore the litterbox and become accustomed to using it. If your rabbit chooses to use the litterbox as a play area or bed, don't worry- this isn't a problem. You'll want to clean the litterbox out frequently at first, since this will encourage the rabbit to reapply its "markings" to the box.

The rabbit should quickly begin to form a habit of using a litterbox. Rabbits, by nature, love routine, and it won't take long before using a litterbox begins to feel "normal". Now you can begin training him to use litterboxes outside the cage environment. This will require supervision, so set aside an hour or two for this activity. Set aside a small area for the rabbit to run free- too much space will be confusing. Place a litterbox or two in the corners of the area. Watch your rabbit as it explores, and be on the lookout for the tell-tale signs of a bunny about to pass waste. If it heads for a corner that doesn't have a litterbox, or lifts its tail as if about to pass, you need to interrupt the act with a sharp burst of sound- a shout of "NO!", or a loud clap. You want to get the rabbit either back into its cage, or over to a litterbox, without creating the impression that the litterbox is a place of punishment or confinement. Herd the rabbit with insistent noises, clapping, or other pressures without actually physically forcing it anywhere. Once it's in the box, reinforce the positive behavior with some hay or other treat.

Repeat this process daily, always using positive reinforcement, never punishment. It shouldn't take long for the rabbit to get the idea that using the litter box is a good way to get a treat, whereas urinating elsewhere brings an annoying human around. Once this becomes habitual, you shouldn't need to use any cues to induce the rabbit to use a litterbox. Persistent difficulties in litter training may be a sign of psychological or physical ailments in your rabbit, and you should talk to a vet or other expert.

Most owners don't ever have these kind of problems. Rabbits are one of the naturally cleanest pets available, and you will most likely find that litter training is a speedy, easy process. Good luck to you and your rabbit!

When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages for sale or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.

For most pet owners, having a pet is simply a matter of having a companion for their morning walk; a buddy to keep the kids company; a showpiece; or simply a furry family member. For others, though, having animals around is more than a hobby- it's an obsession. We've all known someone who keeps a miniature Noah's Ark in their house, with two (or more) of just about every critter under the sun. If this sounds like you, you know that keeping different kinds of animals in one home requires special attention to the potential for a dangerous combination. If you are keeping rabbits along with dogs, here are some guidelines and suggestions for making this process as safe and easy as possible.

As you should know by now, rabbits are extremely sensitive animals. The mere stress of a frightening experience can kill a rabbit, and any attempt to introduce rabbits to other animals should only be undertaken in tightly controlled conditions. Remember that rabbits are prey animals, while dogs are predators. When you attempt to acclimate these creatures to one another, you are fighting against millions of years of evolution. Before you introduce rabbits to other family pets, make sure they are secure and acclimated to their environment. Keep dogs away from the rabbit's area until you feel that the rabbit is comfortable in an established home.

When attempting to acclimate dogs to rabbits, keep in mind that the temperament and behavior patterns of the dog will make or break the experience. Obedient, calm dogs are good candidates, while excitable or difficult dogs may be impossible to rabbit-train. Be honest with yourself when making this assessment. Before you even bring the dog and rabbit in proximity to each other, try to introduce their smells to each other. Collect some used litter, tufts of fur, and any other heavily scented items from each animal, and show them to the other. This will ease the shock and anxiety all animals experience with new stimuli, as well as giving you an opportunity to gauge their likely reactions. If the dog seems extremely agitated or excited by the smell of rabbit, you can bet that the acclimatization process is going to require more patience and caution on your part.

To begin an introduction session, make sure both animals are relaxed, and are not hungry, thirsty, starved for attention, or otherwise likely to be distracted. Taking the dog for a good, long walk is a good idea, as if it's tired, it will be less likely to be aggressive or overeager with the rabbit. The rabbit should be in his cage or other area that he has claimed as his own territory- this will make him less fearful, and more likely to tolerate attention from a larger animal. Have the dog lie down patiently a short distance away. If it shows interest in the rabbit, allow it to gently approach, but be prepared to restrain it at a moment's notice. If the dog should lick or nuzzle the rabbit, give it praise and positive reinforcement. Your goal here is for the dog to associate the rabbit with calm, gentle behavior and affectionate praise from its owner. If the dog behaves aggressively toward the rabbit and is then punished for it, the rabbit will simply be seen as a source of irritation and reprimands. If the dog is unable to behave gently toward the rabbit, discontinue the session and try again the next day. Bonding sessions like this should last for about 15 minutes, or until either animal becomes fidgety or distressed.

After a few successful sessions of this kind, and you feel that both animals have become somewhat accustomed to the other, you can begin working up to more intimate encounters. Try placing both animals in an enclosed space, with the dog laying down and in "stay" mode. Let the rabbit investigate at its own pace, and continue providing the dog with soothing, pleasurable attention. If the rabbit is willing to come close to you and the dog, try petting both animals at the same time. When the dog sees your gentle treatment of the rabbit, it will begin to develop the idea that the rabbit is, like itself, a member of the "pack", and not a prey animal.

As long as the dog continues to demonstrate a relaxed, tolerant attitude toward the rabbit, and the rabbit does not show overwhelming fear of the dog, gradually relax the restrictions on their interactions. First, allow the dog to sit, rather than lie. Always give positive reinforcement for gentle behavior, and discontinue the session following any aggressive incident. You'll know you've made progress when the animals cease to show any great interest in each other- a state of "benign neglect" is ideal. Gradually extend the length of visitations, until the two creatures are able to roam free in the same room with no signs of aggression or panic from either.

Keep in mind that, even when this stage is reached, there is no guarantee that your rabbit will be safe if left alone with a dog. Rabbit experts are constantly hearing stories about dogs that were "perfectly rabbit-trained", until one day... That one day is all it takes for a rabbit to be maimed or killed. If you leave dogs and rabbits together unsupervised, you must use your own honest, realistic judgment as to when this is possible, and be prepared to accept the consequences if you're wrong.

This might all sound like a risky, taxing process that is just as likely to fail as succeed. This is absolutely correct. However, the rewards for successfully establishing a multi-species household are boundless. The joy and pride pet owners feel as they watch their lop-eared "kids" snuggle up to their canine cousins is unmatched, and a testament to the power of patience, good judgment, and a loving disposition. We wish you the best of luck on establishing your Ark!

When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.

For most pet owners, having a pet is simply a matter of having a companion for their morning walk; a buddy to keep the kids company; a showpiece; or simply a furry family member. For others, though, having animals around is more than a hobby -- it's an obsession. We've all known someone who keeps a miniature Noah's Ark in their house, with two (or more) of just about every critter under the sun. If this sounds like you, you know that keeping different kinds of animals in one home requires special attention to the potential for dangerous confrontation. If you are keeping rabbits along with cats, here are some guidelines and suggestions for making this process as safe and easy as possible.

As you should know by now, rabbits are extremely sensitive animals. The mere stress of a frightening experience can kill a rabbit, and any attempt to introduce rabbits to other animals should only be undertaken in tightly controlled conditions. Remember that rabbits are prey animals, while cats are predators. When you attempt to acclimate these creatures to one another, you are fighting against millions of years of evolution. Nurture plays a role here as well as nurture. Outdoor cats are less desirable as rabbit companions, as they have likely had many opportunities to stalk and kill small animals, and will have a taste for it already. Before you introduce rabbits to other family pets, make sure they are secure and acclimated to their environment. Keep cats away from the rabbit's area until you feel that the rabbit is comfortable in an established home- about a week.

Begin by introducing each animal to the other's scent. Present the cat with tufts of rabbit fur, or samples from the rabbit's litterbox. Let the cat satisfy its curiosity before encountering the real thing. The rabbit will benefit from the same experience, and will be less likely to be timid and fearful when meeting the cat. This is important, as first impressions will establish the relationship right off the bat. A rabbit that consistently runs away from the cat will be filed in the cat's mind under "P" for Prey.

Luckily, this will generally not be the case. Most people who keep rabbits and cats note that the rabbit is the more aggressive of the two, even to the point of bullying the cat. This is due to the fact that rabbits are social creatures, with an instinctive urge to assert dominance over subordinates. Cats, on the other hand, are solitary creatures whose instincts tell them to evade aggressive animals. Still, until you have been able to observe both animals under controlled conditions, you cannot be sure that the cat will not identify the rabbit as a meal. Even if the cat doesn't decide to take a taste of rabbit, it may find the rabbit's presence intolerable and give it a nasty scratch. The first precautionary measure you can take is to get your cat's front claws trimmed so that they are blunt. Even a relatively small wound can be dangerous for a delicate animal such as a rabbit.

With these preparations made, and your rabbit locked in its cage, bring the cat to the cage. Allow them to investigate one another. If the cat attempts to reach into the cage and scratch the rabbit, or if the rabbit seems to be experiencing intense fear- signified by remaining motionless, quivering, thumping the hind legs, or displaying the third eyelid- remove the cat and try again later. Do this for about 15 minutes at a time.

After several such sessions, your rabbit should begin to seem more comfortable in the cat's presence. When you feel both animals are ready, remove the rabbit from the cage and set it down in a somewhat enclosed space, such as a small room or large playpen. With the cat on a leash or firmly held in your hands, allow the rabbit to approach at will. Make sure to constantly stroke and soothe the cat, and perhaps give it a favorite treat. Your goal is to make the cat associate the rabbit with love, attention, and other things it enjoys. Negative reinforcement is a very poor method of training a cat -- they will remember only that the rabbit brings unpleasant experiences, or that it should wait until the humans are gone to attack. If the cat hisses, attempts to scratch, or make any other aggressive move, end the session and try again another day.

By gradually allowing the animals more and more freedom together, they should eventually become completely accustomed to one another. Ideally, they should arrive at the conclusion that the other is a member of the "family" as they are, and a source of comfort and entertainment -- or at the least, not a threat. Remember that cats and rabbits are complex animals whose behavior can be unpredictable. Leaving a rabbit and cat together unsupervised is never 100% safe for either creature. You must use your best judgment to decide what level of responsibility you can expect from them when unsupervised, and be prepared to accept the consequences if you are wrong.

With these dire warnings aside, most people find that cats and rabbits make excellent companions. The first time you see the two of them curled up together, grooming each other with purrs and tooth-clicks of contentment, the hard work and vigilance you have invested in their relationship will seem well-rewarded. We wish you the best of luck!

When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.

One of the most important aspects of properly caring for a pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet.

Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options. Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).

Pellets

Rabbit pellets, available at your local pet store, on the internet, or through mail-order, can be a backbone of your pet's diet. They provide many nutrients in a dense fashion, and they make your job as a feeder so easy. However, you don't need pellets to keep your rabbit healthy. Hay, veggies and the occasional treat of fruits can be an equally or even more effective diet. After all, rabbits in the wild subsist on hay, grass, and veggies ... why should domestic rabbits be any different? On the other hand, pellets are easy and widely available. The choice is really up to you.

If you do decide to feed your rabbit pellets, alfalfa pellets are recommended, as are the excellent rabbit pellets offered by Oxbow (Bunny Basics), Purina or Manna Pro. Feed your rabbit a small amount twice daily (morning and night).

Purchase in small bags if possible (not jumbo size) to ensure that they are as fresh as possible by the time your bunny actually gets to eat them. Pet rabbits are widely known as picky eaters who respond badly to sudden changes in diet, and they may balk if you try to feed them pellets that are spoiled or that have gone rancid or stale.

Veggies

Pellets are a great starting point, but they are only a portion of an overall balanced diet. Rabbits also love to consume vegetables, and many vets recommend giving pet bunnies a small amount of a variety of veggies each day.

Here are some veggies rabbits love:

Alfalfa sprouts

Basil

Brussels sprouts

Carrots

Celery

Clover

Green peppers

Mint

Parsley

Peppermint leaves

Radish tops

Wheat grass

While you may have seen bunnies crunching down on carrot sticks in the cartoons, it's important not to give only carrots or to overfeed too many carrots to your pet. Carrots contain vitamin A, and too much of it can cause problems. On the other hands, vitamin A is essential to good nutrition, so aim for one item that contains it per day. Besides carrots, some veggies that contain vitamin A are:

Beet tops

Broccoli

Endive

Romaine leaves

Dandelion greens

Be careful not to give your rabbit too many vegetables, as they are high in water content and can cause diarrhea or loose stools. If this happens, reduce or eliminate veggies from the diet.

Moreover, don't give your bunny rabbit so many veggies that he starts to eat them only and neglect his pellets. Veggies should be a supplement, not a main dietary staple.

Fruits

While you should give your rabbit more veggies than fruits, some fruits can be a nice treat for your pet. Only give him fresh fruit, never canned (which often has added sugar). Again, give only small amounts, as too much can cause watery stools.

Rabbits tend to like apples, bananas, kiwi, and strawberry. Papaya and pineapple are also great choices, as they both contain papain, which is an enzyme that helps to keep rabbit hairballs at bay.

Be Consistant!

Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.

Therefore, it's important to maintain consistency. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don't run out unexpectedly.

Feeding your rabbit a consistent, balanced and healthy diet is one of the best ways to ensure that your pet rabbit has a long and happy life as your prized companion.

by Andrea Austin,

http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

We hope you enjoyed this article. If you would like more information on pet rabbit care, click on this link to get your FREE Rabbit Care Guide: Bunny Rabbits

Not only are rabbits cute, they make excellent pets requiring minimal care once you know what you're doing. Bear in mind that rabbits can live anywhere from 5-10 years so make sure you're ready to make that kind of commitment before buying one. Also be prepared to provide your pet with an appropriate rabbit hutch so your bunny can feel safe and secure. Consider the amount of time you have available to interact with your pet because rabbits are social creatures and shouldn't be left alone for long periods of time. If you're thinking of getting more than one rabbit then consider purchasing one of the larger multi level rabbit hutches available.

If you decide to buy an indoor rabbit hutch then you will have to provide it with some outdoor time. A rabbit run in your garden would be ideal but be very careful to make sure it's predator proof. Never leave your rabbit unsupervised in an insecure rabbit run. If your rabbit is kept indoors you must provide it with entertainment. Allow your rabbit freedom to run around in a room but make sure there is nothing to harm it such as chemicals and electric cables. Rabbits love to chew so provide your bunny with toys and safe things to chew on.

If, on the other hand, you have room in your garden or backyard, you may consider an outdoor rabbit hutch. Outdoor hutches come in a large variety of sizes and designs. Always ensure you choose the proper size for your rabbit, keeping in mind the general rule that the hutch should be at least 4 times the size of your rabbit to allow it to move around fairly easily. Bigger is always better and some rabbit hutches even come with a run to provide your rabbit with some outdoor exploration experience. Rabbits love to hop around and explore.

When space is limited you can elect to purchase a multi level hutch to ensure your rabbit has ample space to move about. Wooden rabbit hutches are the best when choosing an outdoor hutch. Some multi level rabbit hutches even provide attic and storage space. The attic space can be filled with straw during the winter months to provide warmth and insulation. Storage space can be used to keep food and treats for your rabbit in a convenient and tidy manner. If you live in a particularly cold part of the world, rabbit hutch covers are available to provide extra warmth and insulation.

Whichever design you choose, make sure it is sturdy and safe. Rabbits are easily frightened and your hutch should provide an enclosed area where your rabbit can hide from anything that intimidates it. So next time you're choosing from amongst the many rabbit hutches available, remember these simple rules: size, safety and practicality. Making the right choice can mean the difference between having a healthy, thriving pet and one that is unhappy and unhealthy.

Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Large Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.

It is important to understand rabbits behavior in order to have a successful relationship with one. Rabbits are often seen as adorable cuddly animals and many people especially children see them as an ideal pet often times with bad results. Rabbits make wonderful pets but unlike cats and dogs they have a unique form of communication primarily through body language and occasionally verbally. They can also understand some human words but primarily respond based on your tone of voice and your body language. Once you learn their language and also the basic care requirements you will be on your way to a pleasant experience as a rabbit owner.

It helps to put into perspective the rabbits instinctive position in the wild. Rabbits are prey animals therefore they are constantly on the lookout for danger and ready at anytime to take action to avoid predators. They live in social communities called Warrens and develop a hierarchy based on domination, as far as your rabbit is concerned you are also a rabbit and will have to establish your place in the Warren. Rabbits are also very territorial and will defend their territory against invaders.

To understand your pet rabbits behavior you will have to learn the many ways of communicating. Sometimes your rabbit's expression can mean very different things so you will have to do some interpretation based on your experience with your rabbit.

Sniffing - May be annoyed or just talking to you

Grunts - Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit!

Shrill scream - Hurt or dying

Circling your feet - Can be part of a courtship dance or a means of getting attention. If other aggressive indicators are displayed, e.g. an erect tail and laid back ears, an attack is about to take place.

Chewing - is a natural behavior. This keeps your rabbits teeth ground down and is instinctive to keep any obstruction (electrical cords, etc.) that are encroaching on the entrance to his burrow

Spraying - Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray.

Chinning - Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing its forehead on people and objects.

False pregnancy - Usually just unspayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest & stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth.

Bunny hop/dance - a jump straight up with a mid-air half turn and a twist usually executed in mid-run. A sign of pure joy & happiness!

Begging - Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbit treats as overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits.

Boxing - rabbit stands on hind legs with their dukes up and throws punches. Stay back or your going to get it.

Territory droppings - Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance.

Flop - rabbit literally throws his/herself onto their side which looks like they just keeled over. You have a happy at ease rabbit.

Playing - Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar.

Burrowing: Tunneling behavior. Instinctive Rabbits are burrowing animals

Bunching - Pushing, pulling, and biting bed linens, towels, pillows. Organizing to their liking

Don't touch my stuff - Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their cage as you clean. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way.

Stomping - He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).

Teeth Grinding - Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.

One of the joys of having a rabbit as a pet is to fully experience all of the behaviors your rabbit will exhibit as a happy rabbit. In order for your rabbit to be happy it is important to know how to care for and keep you rabbit comfortable.

Rabbits are social animals and do best with a fellow rabbit companion along with lots of attention form you. Make sure you provide plenty of play time along with human interaction. If your rabbit is happy and comfortable you will find that they will seek you out to cuddle and often times will curl up on your chest to take a bunny nap but don't forget most rabbits don't like to be picked up. Most rabbits will get along just fine with other animals such as dogs, cats, and other small mammals be they need to be properly introduced. Most rabbit organizations can guide you through the steps. Be cautious if you have young children since rabbits can be easily squeezed to hard and injured. Understanding your pet rabbits behavior is important but most or all enjoy your pet rabbit to the fullest.

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Rabbits need a comfortable place to stay, whether they are kept indoors or outdoors. Rabbit hutches can be purchased in a few different types and sizes. You should find out how large your rabbit will grow before deciding on a rabbit hutch. Dwarf varieties can be comfortably kept in smaller rabbit hutches, but you should make sure your rabbit's home is large enough for it to move around in. You should also be ready with food, bedding, and a water bottle before you bring your rabbit home.

Rabbit pellet food is available from pet stores, and provides much of the nutrients that a rabbit needs. It is important to read the instructions on the bag and follow the guidelines or consult a vet to find out how much you should feed your rabbit. Younger, growing rabbits need more food. You should put the food in a food dish so you can easily find out how much your rabbit is eating. A poor appetite may be a sign of illness. You can also feed your rabbit fresh greens and vegetables. You should be careful with lettuces, because they can cause stomach upset. Rabbits like carrots as well, but you shouldn't feed them too many starchy root vegetables. Many rabbits like the green tops of carrots just as much as the carrot itself.

It is important that you always have fresh water available to your pets. Water bottles are a convenient way to allow your rabbit easy access to the water. They also tend to keep the water cleaner. Water put in bowls or dishes can get contaminated by bacteria. You should rinse out the water bottle and provide fresh water daily.

You should also carefully consider where you are going to place your rabbit hutch. Rabbits can do well in a variety of temperatures, but they should always be protected from extreme weather conditions. They can get overheated, so you should put outdoor rabbit hutches in a shady place. Outdoor hutches should have at least one side completely covered, and a solid roof to protect them from wind, rain, and snow. Even if there is a covered side to your rabbit hutch, you may want to buy or build the rabbit a wooden box for additional protection from the weather. Indoor rabbit hutches should be out of direct sunlight and away from heating or air conditioning vents.

Rabbit hutches should be large enough for the rabbit, and they should protect the rabbit from the weather and potential predators. They need to be cleaned often. New food and water should be provided daily, and you should also consider chews and chewing toys for your rabbits, since their teeth are always growing. If your rabbit is not fully grown, consult a pet store or vet to find out how large it may become as an adult. You should also handle your rabbit often. This will allow it to become more comfortable with humans, which will make it a more enjoyable pet.

Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.