The summer is a great time for family and pets also, but often we can forget about the health of our pets. Leaving the dog in the back garden whilst the rest of the family heads out for the day could actually bring serious harm to your dog.

Here are some tips to prevent your pets from overheating, dehydrating and getting burnt. Yes, dogs get sunburn too.

Coping with the heat…

If you’re feeling the heat then there’s no doubt that your dog is too – maybe even more so. Keep your dog well groomed by trimming their coat to keep them cool and brushing them regularly to prevent ticks. Pet shops supply doggy sunscreen and insect repellent which should be used if your dog will be spending the day over the park with you.

Outdoor fun…

No matter where your dog will be outdoors you should always ensure you have a fresh water supply. Pet water bottles are fantastic for dogs with a water bottle and drinking channel all in one. If you often find it difficult to get your dog to drink then consider freezing a plastic water bottle. Your dog will be happy to lick this which will not only be a source of water but will keep them cool throughout the day.

In the car…

Under no circumstances should you leave your pet in the car. Your car can reach soaring temperatures in very little time – even with the windows left open.

Summer holidays…

If you have a summer holiday planned but are concerned about leaving your pet in kennels then consider pet sitting these are also often referred to as luxury dog kennels and will offer a home-from-home environment for your dog.

Daily walking…

Because it is hot it doesn’t mean that your dog will want to skip its daily walk. You can avoid the heat by walking your dog earlier in the morning or later at night but let them adventure at their own pace. Forcing them to play tag could overheat their body.

The garden…

It is perfectly fine to leave your dog in the garden but it is very important to ensure that they have shelter from the sun that is cool and that they have a cool water supply throughout the day. You can play garden games with the hosepipe for your dog to cool them down. A hard plastic paddling pool will allow your dog to cool down throughout the day. If this isn’t possible then soak a blanket with water for them to lie on.

For a quality pet sitting service click here for more information: http://www.petstay.net

Myth # 1: Dry food is better for my cat than wet food.

False! While dry cat food does leave less residue on cats' teeth, thus creating less plaque buildup and tartar formation, dry food is far less natural for your cat than wet food, and the few dental benefits of dry food do NOT outweigh the health advantages of wet food... there is no contest!

Feral cats hunt mice, birds, and other small prey animals because they are obligate carnivores. When comparing water content, protein, fat, and other elements within the nutritional composition profiles of feline prey species to both dry and wet cat foods, wet foods are more analogous to cats' natural diet than dry foods are - by far!

Wet food is approximately 70% to 80% water content which is similar to the water content of prey species' bodies.

Cats who eat wet food consume 3 to 5 times the amount of water over the course of the day relative to cats who eat dry food.

Cats were originally desert creatures and inhabited areas where water was not freely available for consumption. This means two things: 1) cats are meant to hydrate themselves via their food intake, and 2) their kidneys developed the capacity to produce highly concentrated urine to conserve their body water in times when prey was scarce and water was unavailable. So when cats do not obtain water through their diets because their diet is composed mainly of dry food, their kidneys chronically conserve their body water by producing the highly concentrated urine they are capable of making. Their kidneys spend a lifetime working very hard in order to compensate for their decreased water intake when their diets are composed of dry matter; this water conservation mechanism was only meant to be used in temporary times of need - not as a long-term solution to be used for decades!

Why is water intake so important for cats? Because proper hydration, as obtained via wet diets, helps prevent many human-induced (via dry diets) lower urinary tract diseases and kidney problems.

Additionally, dry food often contains grain fillers (corn, wheat, potato, rice, soy, etc.) that are entirely inappropriate for obligate carnivores to be ingesting. Evolutionarily cats were not built to digest grains. And although there are now a few 'high quality' dry foods on the market that are not made with grains, the fact remains that dry food is still dense (97% dry matter), is hard on cats' GI tracts and still results in decreased water intake. Avoiding dry food and unnatural ingredients in your cats' diets (even the wet ones) helps prevent human-induced diseases (via diet) such as inflammatory bowel disease, eosinophilic enteritis, pancreatitis, triaditis, intestinal lymphoma, and many many more.

Myth #2: Animal by-products listed in the ingredients of cat foods means that the food is low quality and non-nutritious.

False! While most humans don't want animal by-products on their plates (by-products can include bone, skin, eyes, intestines, chicken feet, undeveloped eggs, etc.), they are still very nutritious body parts and in some cultures many by-products are even considered to be delicacies!

When cats hunt and eat their prey (eg. mice), they don't skin them, remove the muscle from the bones, and toss aside the viscera: they eat the entire mouse, rarely leaving any 'by-products' behind!

That said, kitties still need to eat muscle tissue along with the other bits and pieces that may be included in their suppers in order to get enough protein in their food, so a good quality cat diet should contain a significant amount of 'real meat' as well!

Myth #3: I don't need to regulate the amount of food my cat eats because, unlike dogs, cats can regulate their own food intake and will not overeat.

False! Many cats will indulge in overeating just like dogs and humans do. In fact, obesity is becoming an increasingly prevalent problem among North American cats, particularly for indoor cats who are fed dry food. Many cat owners allow their kitties to free feed on dry food, and the food bowls are just topped up with kibble every several days when they're looking a bit low.

Dry food is very calorie dense in comparison with wet food or a natural feline diet consisting of prey species, so the volume of food that is equal to an average cat's daily caloric requirements is relatively small.

This means that many cats do not feel satiated by the small volume of dry food that is equal to their daily caloric needs, and therefore they unwittingly consume excessive calories since they continue to eat more dry food in order to feel full.

Just a few of the reasons that obesity poses health risks to cats include the following: 1) obesity leads to diabetes (a disease that is now rampant in our domestic cat population), 2) early onset of severe arthritis, 3) increased risk of urinary tract problems, 4) increased risk of liver failure when obese cats become ill and stop eating, 5) decreased quality of life due to lethargy and low energy levels, and 6) decreased capacity to have thorough veterinary physical exams performed.

Additionally, unless the amount of food that is fed on a daily basis is quantified, it is very difficult to recognize when a cat stops eating if they are fed dry food. If the food dish is just topped up periodically, it may be a matter of days before their inappetence is noted, at which point illness may have progressed significantly.

Cats naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals (of wet food!) as possible.

Myth #4: Cats only need to be fed once or twice per day.

False! Cats will naturally eat ten to twenty small meals per day, so it is best to feed them as many small meals as possible.

Logistically it can be somewhat difficult for working owners to provide this ideal number of feedings, but when possible, feedings should be done upon waking up, again in the morning before leaving for work, immediately upon returning home from work, and then once or twice more before going to bed.

Leaving a very very small amount of dry food or better yet, high quality freeze-dried meat treats, available in puzzle feeders while away from home during the day, and when in bed during the night, allows cats to enjoy small feedings at their leisure and will encourage natural foraging/hunting behaviors (and may help prevent your kitty from waking you up at 5 AM for their breakfast feeding!).

For practical reasons, wet food needs to be fed in small frequent meals because most cats won't eat wet food that has been out for longer than 30 minutes.

Once wet food has dried up from exposure at room temperature it loses its appeal to cats, and additionally, will grow bacteria, which means it won't be safe for cats to consume.

Wet food should not be left out for more than 15 to 30 minutes and if not immediately placed refrigerated once meal time is finished it should be thrown away.

Myth #5: My cat goes crazy over wet food, and wet food will make my cat fat.

False! While many people make the assumption that wet cat food is fattening, this is a gross misconception.

Intuitively it seems to make sense: wet food smells rich and enticing, many cats gobble their wet food with an enthusiasm they rarely display when presented dry food, and even the moistness of the wet food looks fattening! However, nothing could be further from the truth.

Canned food is approximately 70% to 80% water content, so while it may seem rich and delectable, it is actually very calorically dilute (literally!) in comparison to dry food. It's mostly made of water!

Dry cat food (kibble) is approximately 97% dry matter, and it is extremely calorie dense.

Kibble is similar in concept to a human meal-replacement bar; it's a compact little item that contains all of the nutrients and calories that are required but, who feels full after one little bar?! It would take four or five meal bars to actually feel physically full as though one had eaten an entire meal, and the very same problem exists with dry cat food.

Only a small volume of dry food provides the calories necessary to meet cats' daily caloric needs, but since most cats do not feel satiated by the tiny volume that equals their daily caloric needs, they eat larger volumes than they actually require in time, this leads to obesity which frequently results in diabetes over time.

Myth #6: My cat can eat the same type of food at all stages of life.

False! Kittens, adults, and geriatric cats all have slightly different nutritional requirements, and it is important that they be fed appropriate diets for their stage of life. Additionally, some cats may have particular diseases that may require specific diets to aid with their disease management.

Myth #7: Cats who eat dry food drink more water, so dry food is healthier than wet food.

False! While cats who eat dry food may appear to be ingesting more water (and they certainly do spend more time visibly drinking from their water dishes), in actuality they only consume one third to one fifth of the amount of water over the course of a day as cats who eat canned food do!

The reason that cats who eat canned food ingest so much more water than those eating dry food, is because canned food is anywhere from 70% to 80% water content (in comparison to dry food which is only 3% water content).

Despite the fact that cats on dry diets appear to drink large quantities of water from their water bowls, they actually do not compensate nearly to the point of actually equaling the amount of water that cats who eat wet food consume on a daily basis.

Cats were originally desert creatures and they evolved to have the capacity to concentrate their urine very highly.

Thus, cats who eat dry food only take in enough water to remain adequately hydrated while their kidneys work in overdrive day in and day out, producing highly concentrated urine to bridge the gap for them. In turn this chronically concentrated urine causes urinary crystals, bladder and kidney stones, kidney disease, idiopathic cystitis, urinary obstruction, and many more serious health problems.

Myth #8: Cat treats are not a significant source of calories so I give my kitty lots of them.

False! Depending on the type of cat treats that are being fed, they can be a dangerously high source of calories!

Over-treating your cat can be a contributing factor in the development of obesity, so it's a good idea to know the caloric content of the treats you feed your cat.

For example, Pounce treats are 10 kcal/treat; Temptations are 2 kcal/treat; and MediCal treats are 1 kcal/treat.

So if you give your cat 5 Pounce treats in one day, this is equal to 50 kcal.

Since the average adult cat needs approximately 200 to 250 kcal/day, 5 Pounce treats is actually about one quarter of an adult cat's daily caloric requirements! Which means that their meal portions for that day would need to be significantly reduced.

5 Temptations treats, on the other hand, are only equal to 10 kcal, and so are a relatively low calorie choice.

The bottom line is that you can feed your cat treats, but you need to include your cat's treat calories in their calorie count for the day.

Also, keep in mind that many cat treats are similar to dry food in that they can include many inappropriate ingredients for our little carnivores, including food coloring. For this reason, I tend to stick to freeze dried meat treats - they are much healthier and contain no added ingredients!

Myth #9: Organic cat foods and holistic cat foods tend to include veggies and fruits in them, which means that they are wholesome, higher quality, and more nutritious for my cat.

False! It is true that many organic and holistic cat foods contain veggies and fruits in their ingredient lists. But while the concept of organic cat food is a good one, the fruits and vegetables that are frequently included in these diets tend to actually detract from their overall healthiness and suitability.

Organic food is an important part of healthy living, but unfortunately many organic cat foods that are commercially available today include inappropriate ingredients in their make-up. Vegetables and fruits are included in cat diets purely for marketing purposes. This tactic is very effective because we humans - the consumers! - have the preconceived notion that these items are healthy and wholesome: which they are, but that's because we are omnivores!

Cats are obligate carnivores which means that their digestive tracts are built solely for the purpose of ingesting prey, and are not designed to digest herbivorous food. If cats were pushing their own shopping carts through pet store aisles, the food companies would not be marketing their feline diets with veggie and fruit ingredients, and nor would they be enhancing their diets' appearance with artificial food coloring!

Cats are primary protein users for energy, and the only veggie matter that would normally be ingested by cats would be the very minute amount present in the intestines of their prey, which is already digested. Blueberries, apples, carrots, etc., are simply not appropriate for the feline diet!

Myth #10: Making a home-cooked diet for my cat is easy. I will simply cook some meat for my cat, or perhaps find an online recipe for cat food.

False! Cats have very specific nutritional requirements, including essential amino acids that absolutely must be obtained dietetically.

Significant diseases can develop as a result of vitamin imbalances and amino acid deficiencies, and it is imperative that before switching your cat to a home-cooked diet or a raw diet that you consult with your veterinarian and obtain a balanced recipe and all of the appropriate supplements that must be included.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

MYTH #1 - My cat urinates outside of the litter box because they are mad at me. It happens most frequently when I go away, so I know for sure that it's done out of spite.

FALSE! While it is true that cats can develop behavioral problems involving inappropriate elimination, the most common causes of urination outside of the litter box are medical ones. Frequently subclinical medical problems flare-up during times of stress, and indeed they may become clinically evident for the very first time during a period of stress. Stress adversely affects the immune system and exacerbates underlying disease(s). Stress also heightens pain perception, and in so doing, can exacerbate out-of-the-box behavior caused by underlying medical issues which cause pain.

Cats who experience any sort of discomfort while eliminating, whether it occurs during urination or defecation, quickly learn to associate that discomfort with the litter box itself (a fairly logical conclusion!). For instance, cats who have bladder stones, urinary crystals, urinary infections, bladder inflammation, constipation, or diarrhea, will often start urinating and/or defecating outside of the box. By bringing your cat to your veterinarian and discussing the problem with them, you can discover what the most likely cause for your cat's behavior is. Some medical tests will likely need to be run in order to confirm or exclude certain medical issues as the underlying cause of the problem.

When medical diseases are not responsible for the problem at hand, the next most common culprit is that there is a sub-par litter box situation in the home. Click the link to read advice on giving your cat the best feline bathroom options possible - your kitty will thank you! And again, this is a subject that your veterinarian can help you with; sometimes the answer is as simple as adding one more litter box to your home!

MYTH #2 - My older cat caterwauls at night and makes a huge fuss because they're not getting attention once I've gone to bed.

FALSE! There are a couple of very common medical problems that cause caterwauling in older cats, particularly at night. It is not unusual to hear clients with geriatric cats complain of being woken up at 4 AM from their cat's incessant meowing.

This behavior is frequently noted in cats that suffer from hyperthyroidism, elevated blood pressure, blindness or decreased night vision, and also cats that are experiencing dementia as they age. All of these problems require immediate medical attention from a veterinarian, so if your cat is keeping you up at night with their caterwauling, you are likely not the only one suffering in this situation it is time for a trip to your veterinarian!

MYTH #3 - My cat vomits food and/or has diarrhea when they're stressed, particularly if there are visitors in my home. I don't take my cat to the vet when this happens since it seems to be just a stress behavior.

FALSE! Unless under extreme, acutely stressful situations that incite a response called a vasovagal reaction, cats do not normally vomit or have diarrhea solely due to stress.

Again, stress can exacerbate underlying diseases, particularly disorders that are immune related such as inflammatory bowel disease, a common condition seen in domestic kitties. If your cat is vomiting, regurgitating, or experiencing diarrhea or constipation periodically, particularly when stressed, it is quite likely that there is a medical issue present, one that has been subclinical for a period of time.

MYTH #4 - Cats aren't trainable!

FALSE! Contrary to popular belief, cats are quite trainable, and similarly to dogs, they benefit greatly from the mental stimulation provided by learning to do tricks. Use positive reinforcement when cats naturally display the desired behaviors, and for food motivated kitties include reward with treats and include them as part of their daily caloric intake.

Clicker training is an excellent method of training to achieve reliable results. Karen Pryor's clicker training website is a good place to start (although please do not clicker train your cat to use the toilet: it's not a good idea to deny your cat the ability to express their natural behaviours). Think how impressed your friends will be when they visit and see that your cat knows how to sit and shake paw!

MYTH #5 - My older kitty has started getting aggressive when I brush their hind end so I'm pretty sure my cat is getting cranky and mean from aging.

FALSE! Many cats become aggressive when a particular body part is patted or brushed if they are experiencing discomfort from it. The lower back and hips are common areas in which this phenomenon is seen because as cats age and many develop lumbosacral and hip arthritis a cranky reaction to grooming an older cat's derriere may signify that it is time for an orthopedic assessment at the veterinary clinic!

MYTH #6 - My cat has licked their abdomen bald because they have an obsessive compulsive disorder.

FALSE! While it is true that excessive grooming behavior can be a compulsive disorder in certain kitties, the abdomen is a less common body area than some others for behavioral over-grooming, and it is much more frequently a sign of abdominal discomfort or pain. This abdominal pattern of baldness can also be the result of an underlying dermatological issue.

When the bald area is between your cat's hind legs in the pelvic area, it very commonly signifies bladder and urinary pain such as seen with idiopathic cystitis, bladder stones, urinary crystals, and urinary tract infections. Occasionally pelvic over-grooming is also associated with hyperthyroidism in affected cats. When the bald area is more generalized to the abdomen or is higher up than, and does not include, the pelvis it generally signifies gastric or intestinal discomfort such as seen with inflammatory bowel disease, intestinal parasitism, eosinophilic enteritis, gastric ulcers, pancreatitis, and other diseases of the gastrointestinal tract. A kitty who over-grooms their underside should always be examined by a veterinarian so that medical problems can be ruled out prior to concluding that the issue is behavioral.

MYTH #7 - My older cat is defecating outside of the litter box, even though I added another one upstairs. They're likely doing this because of stubbornness, laziness, or senility.

FALSE! There are a variety of common medical problems that can result in inappropriate defecation, particularly in older cats. While it is always appropriate to have a litter box on each floor, especially for old and arthritic cats, there are still many other medical and circumstantial reasons for why cats will do this, so you cannot conclude that they are just being naughty and/or senile cats!

Any type of discomfort experienced while in the litter box will result in an aversion to using it, so urinary issues, diarrhea, and constipation can all cause this behavior. Additionally, hyperthyroidism, arthritis, high blood pressure, and many other diseases can cause inappropriate elimination. While it is possible for senility to play a role here as well, other medical problems must be ruled out first. This means discussing the issue with your veterinarian and having your elderly cat fully examined and tested for common health conditions.

MYTH #8 - Placing a bell on the collar of my outdoor cat will prevent them from being able to hunt and kill prey.

FALSE! Cats can easily learn to stalk without jingling their collar bells, so this does not necessarily prevent them from successful hunting ventures. The only foolproof solution is to keep your cat indoors or to use a safe outdoor solution such as leash walking your kitty or setting up a cat enclosure in which your cat can enjoy the outdoors.

MYTH #9 - I have more than one cat in my household. My cats have always shared food and water dishes without any problems, so it must be fine.

FALSE! While you may not witness any signs of competition between your cats, it's always best for each cat in every household to have at least one water and one food dish of their own. This prevents guarding of the dishes by dominant cats, and that in general your cats will be less likely to overeat or to eat too quickly in an effort to out-compete each other and finish their meal before another cat comes over and eats it.

Cats should not be fed side by side, but rather on opposite sides of the room, to avoid this type of stress. Even though you may not be aware that one or more of your cats' experiences anxiety about the situation, does not mean that they are not distressed at meal times.

MYTH #10 - My cat lets me know when they're hungry, so I don't have a regular feeding schedule for my cat, and this is okay.

FALSE! While many cats will alert their owners to their hunger, and can even serve as militant alarm clocks in some cases(!), cats are creatures of habit, and they much prefer having reliable feeding times.

Having a haphazard feeding schedule can be a significant source of stress for a cat that negatively impacts their quality of life, irrespective of whether or not they are actually able to communicate their stress to you.

To read more of Dr. Ko's articles, please visit www.catdoctorko.com

The information provided in this article is for educational reference purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the advice and care of your veterinarian, nor medical diagnoses or treatments. All questions regarding your cat's health should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Dr. Ko is a passionate believer in the importance of preventative medicine and educating cat owners about its benefits for their cats. It was this ideal which was the motivation for the creation of the Dr. Ko website.

catdoctorko.com is a brand new site dedicated to providing cat owners with information to help them provide effective and preventative health care for their cats. Within the site, Dr. Ko, a licensed veterinarian, has created Know-How Videos, Cat Health Articles, Ask Dr. Ko tips (in which she answers your cat health questions), information on toxic substances, product recalls, dangerous household items and much more! In addition, the website houses a store filled with products specifically selected for their benefits to optimizing your cat's quality of life!

All of the topics that Dr. Ko writes about are provided by members of her website. To suggest an article topic for Dr. Ko, please visit http://www.catdoctorko.com and set up a membership - it's fast and free!

The cage was small, but the people were nice and Tiger felt safe. He was fed, petted and regularly groomed. Still, it wasn't home. Tiger had been 'home', and still had vague memories of the woman who had cared for him and the other cats who lived with her.

Then he had been taken to this place, and had been here so long he had almost forgotten 'home', and the woman.

There was uneasiness here, though, and Tiger felt it. Something was about to happen. Something bad.

Then two humans came in. He was put in a cage with them. He jumped up in the woman's lap. He was put in a dark place that bumped and jostled him. He heard strange, scary noises. He howled, and a male voice answered with noises he couldn't understand.

Then there was light. And TERROR!

A small hand reached for him and tried to grab him. There were people he didn't know; they all approached him. There was another cat that arched and spat.

Then, horror of horrors...

There was a dog!

Tiger fled. He fled down a long corridor and bolted through the first open door he found. He hid in the darkest place he could find...among soft and hard things he didn't recognized. He heard voices. He heard the dog bark, and he shuddered. He heard the child's high pitched voice, and a woman's voice...which were easier to bear.

He hunkered down and remained as invisible and silent as he could.

Adoption in Haste

The staff of animal shelters greet people looking for new pets with both joy and misgiving. People walk between the cages, looking over each cat, and the staff hope they will select a cat that has been there for a long time.

But they know what the people are looking for; they are looking for kittens, not adult cats.

If there are no kittens, the customers will sometimes reluctantly choose an adult cat as a "consolation prize", pay the adoption fees and cart him or her off...

Only to return the cat two or three days later.

"I'm sorry, but this cat just didn't work out. We couldn't fit it into the family."

Or...

"This cat is just too wild. We need something tamer, something that will fit in."

"What happened?" The staff member asks.

"The cat bolted and hid. It took us three days to find it, and when we finally did, we had to chase it all over the house before we caught it. We need something tamer; something that will fit in better."

So go the sad tales of the returnees... but wait, it can be worse for cats adopted in other ways.

"The landlord won't let me keep her, could you please take her in?"

People who adopt strays off the street, or a friend's cat, many times don't realize the full extent of the things they need to do for their new cat:

o Prepare their house to receive their cat

o Take care of their cat's medical needs

o Make sure their other cats have protection from disease

o Take care of their cat's physical needs

o Properly introduce their cat to their live-in companions, children and other pets

And perhaps most importantly:

o Prepare themselves for a good relationship with their new cat

People who have never owned cats before don't really realize what a cat is: A highly intelligent, independent animal which needs love and affection daily - but is not a dog.

Cats will bond with people, just as dogs do, but they don't always bond with the person who has adopted them. They will choose whom they like, much to the consternation of the person who "picked them up" hoping to have acquired a new friend.

This is one very good reason why the first 24 hours is so important. It is in during that period that your cat will decide whom she wants to bond with.

Unless you know what you are doing, it might not be with you.

Time

A cat needs time spent with her. One of the big mistakes busy people make is to fail to realize that they have busy schedules that don't allow them to spend enough time with their newly adopted cat.

This could ultimately result in your cat running off. If you have no time to spend with your cat, she will not choose your house as "her den". She will go out searching for another one, and you could be soon reporting a "lost cat".

Or, to your consternation, you will find that the cat you thought would be a loving companion has bonded with another member of your household...somebody who did have the time to spend.

Money

A lot of people don't count the cost of pet ownership. In their exuberance to adopt a cat, they forget that they don't have the budget to keep her. Belatedly, they discover they don't have the cash on hand to buy their new feline's basic necessities or give her the medical attention she is most certainly going to need.

Many people shun pet medical insurance, not realizing that the same things that happen to people happen to cats, and can cost large sums of money to cure. This can result in losing their beloved pet because the price to save her is "just too high".

Medical Needs

Some people who adopt strays or cats owned by friends don't realize the full extent of the medical attention their new cat needs:

o A complete physical examination

o A complete vaccination regimen

o Spaying or neutering

In particular, that cute kitten you brought home from a friend's litter will need a long series of vaccinations (along with boosters) that will extend over a period of a couple of years. You can't do it all in one day.

To fail in this will almost assuredly mean tragedy down the line. I know. I failed to give one of my kittens its vaccinations. I made it an outdoor cat, and it died of feline leukemia. The story definitely had a very sad ending...

Your cat's physical needs

When your cat climbs out of the carrier box for the first time, will you be equipped with the essentials?

Or, will you discover that you need these things later...and bring them in one at a time, after your cat has defecated in the corner, started scratching the furniture, or begun some other unauthorized behavior you are not prepared for? (And, be advised, a cat is a very obsessed animal...once she starts doing something, it is very hard to change it).

Making sure you have what you need to receive your new cat is vital...and you must have the basics on hand before you bring her home.

First introductions

So, when your cat first climbs out of her carrier, is she going to be set upon by every member of your household all at once? And when she does, will she flee in terror, trying to find the safest and darkest corner she can find?

Or will you introduce her gradually... to try to reduce the trauma as much as possible so she can adapt to and feel at home in her new situation?

Your technique for doing that can be a deciding factor in whether or not your cat adapts to your home immediately, by the next day or the next month, or flees the house altogether.

The days to follow

Do you know how to take care of your new cat in the days to come, assuming you handled your first introductions well? Do you know about allergies, special foods, bathing, grooming, hair balls, removing urine, training and teaching without frightening and alienating her, and a multitude of other situations cat owners wrestle with on a daily basis? Do you know the hazards involved in letting her become an outdoor cat?

Be prepared

As you've often heard, 'preparation is the key to success', and nowhere does that apply more appropriately than to cat ownership. If you are prepared, your adoption will probably go very smoothly.

I say probably because every cat is different. Even with the best preparation by a knowledgeable owner, a cat may still want to hide for awhile. And if you discover that's the case...

You need to know what to do.

The Key

So, that's why I wrote my book, "Your New Cat's First 24 Hours", http://www.yourcatsecrets.com, to give you everything you need to know and have, not only to get ready for your new cat and introduce her to your household, but to understand and care for her in the days to follow.

I've got to say it again: preparation...and knowledge... is the key. When you decide to adopt, I hope you won't do it in haste.

I hope you will do it knowledgeably and with understanding.

John Young is a writer and a cat lover, having owned one cat or another since he was four, and that was over 57 years ago. He is the author of the E-book: "Your New Cat's First 24 Hours", which is filled with information to help you introduce your new cat to your household and care for it from then on. John's book is available on-line at: http://www.yourcatsecrets.com. He also has a free newsletter: "Your Cat's 9 Secrets" which you can subscribe to from his Web site.

Age is just a number, right? Well, yes and no. A Human who is 70 years old may act like a young adult, while humans the same age may act like he or she is on their deathbed. Cats are exactly the same way! Your pet may act like a kitten for many years or may be achy at a very young. Specific breeds, environments, and genetics play a big role, but in general, a well cared for house cat usually lives to be at least 15 years old. Some cats even live to be well over 30.

There are a number of things you can do, to provide your cat with the chance for the longest life possible:

o Have your cat spayed or neutered. Statistics show that altered cats live longer:

o Having your cat fixed causes your cat to stay closer to home and be exposed to fewer dangerous situations and disease.

o Good nutrition is also extremely important make sure that you are buying cat food that is appropriate for your cat's age and traits;

o If your cat is overweight ensure you purchase cat food that:

- Satisfies Hunger (A healthy blend of fiber helps your cat stay fuller longer);

- Helps maintain healthy hips and joints; and

- Calorie Control (11% less Calories than normal cat food is standard).

- If your cat is strictly an indoor cat buy food that:

- Promotes lean muscle mass;

- Supports skin & coat health; and

- Has a magnesium level of not more than 0.098%.

o If your cat suffers from furballs (especially long furred cats) get food that contains:

- Furball preventative maintenance ingredients.

o If your cat is prone to urinary tract infections buy food that is formulated for management of urinary tract disease.

As your cat ages, there are certain medical conditions to take into consideration for your cat. Some include reduced tolerance to extreme temperatures, decreased sensory perception, susceptibility to infection, arthritis and joint stiffness, digestion problems, liver and kidney problems, weaker bones, cancer, muscle weakness, slow reaction, memory loss, high blood pressure, and irritability. As you can see, aging cats have many of the same problems as aging humans! If your cat displays any of the above signs, bring him/her to your vet for a complete examination. Inform your vet of your observations and follow his/her recommendations. After all, you cat is a valued member of your family!

Along with a good diet, ensure your cat gets enough exercise. You can do this by letting your cat outside to play. However, never allow your cat outside unless he/she is well supervised or has an enclosed area to play. You CAN train your cat to walk on a harness and leash. This not only allows your cat to get some exercise, but you as well. Never attach a leash to a cat's collar, this could lead to unintentional strangulation of your cat or if the collar is a breakaway, loss of your beloved pet.

Regardless if your cat is an indoor cat or both, have him/her micro-chipped. Attaching tags to their collars with your information is only useful if the cat has the collar on. Tattoo's become blurry and fades over time, thus reducing your chances of having your cat returned to you. Cats are curious and if there's a way for them to get out, they will find it!

Play with your cat every day, set aside 15 to 30 minutes, this not only persuades your cat to play, it's a wonderful way to bond with your cat. Toys, scratching posts, play stations, are also a great way to encourage your cat to exercise. Remember, cats may spend a lot of the day sleeping, which is fine, but if you are overly concerned, talk to your vet about your cat's sleeping habits.

Preventative health care, of course is very important. Make sure that your cat has regular checkups with your vet to ensure everything is okay. You should also brush your cat's teeth daily and have your cat groomed regularly to prevent skin diseases. Grooming your cat is also an excellent way to bond and allows you the opportunity to feel any lumps and abrasions not visual to the human eye. Take immediate action - remember it's easier and less costly to catch it before it becomes a major issue.

Monitor your cat for diet chances, litter box usage, changing sleep habits, and unsafe water consumption. The key to graceful aging in a cat is an owner who is well involved in his or her life. Make sure that you provide advanced care for your cat as he or she grows, and your pet should be a part of your life for a very long time.

Ensure your place is cat friendly. Keep all products containing chemicals that can be a health hazard to you cat in a safe place. (If necessary, purchase childproof locks, cats are inquisitive and many quickly learn how to open cupboards.)

Never use bleach to clean your cat's kitty litter box. If possible, purchase a steam cleaner for washing your floors. This reduces the use of chemical cleaning products and eliminates the risk of residue being digested by your cat. Remember, cats are very clean animals and any residue left behind from cleaning products can be easily consumed by your cat through self cleaning.

Cilantro and Tarragon

Cat Tales by Cilantro and Tarragon, Inc.
http://www.thespicecats.com

Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.

Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.

Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.

Cat Sense of Smell and Communication

A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.

Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.

Cat Talk and Hierarchy

Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.

Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.

Cat Communication and Territory

Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.

With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!

What is Cat Secret Talk?

Most of us are familiar with a variety of cat sounds, including meows, hissing, growls and purrs. A meow can mean anything from "I want food" to "will you play with me?" to "hello there". Some cats, such as Siamese cats, are much more vocal than others. No one knows exactly how the purring sound is made but it usually indicates contentment. Hissing and growling usually mean the cat feels threatened or unhappy about something. Cats, especially very young ones, might make these sounds when playing too.

Cats rarely meow when communicating amongst themselves. They use a combination of body language, tail movement, scent and eye contact. When communicating with humans, cats differ their sounds by rhythm, intensity, pitch, tone and volume, so we can take a reasonable guess at what they are trying to say.

Cats sometimes use sounds when communicating with one another too. If a kitten wanders off, the mother cat might meow loudly and clearly to call her offspring back to safety. A cat might hiss or growl if another cat or intrudes on its territory. A cat enjoying some prey it has hunted will also use these sounds to warn off another cat coming too close.

Cat Sense of Smell and Communication

A cat's sense of smell is acute and highly developed. It is used in several ways to facilitate communication. Two cats living together will sniff each other several times a day. This tells the cats where the other has been, what they have been doing, what they have recently eaten and whether they came into contact with another animal. Cats detect pheromones left by other cats, usually when marking territory. If a cat could talk, it might ask these things verbally but a few sniffs tell them everything they need to know.

Cats living together often groom one another. This provides social interaction, removes parasites and keeps the fur clean. A mother cat recognises the scent of her own kittens and grooms them often to provide comfort, keep them clean and encourage bowel movements.

Cat Talk and Hierarchy

Hierarchy amongst cats is determined by the outcomes of social interactions between the cats. Some factors determining hierarchy include gender, the environment, reproductive status, age, size, aggressiveness and submissiveness.

Hierarchy between cats is different to hierarchy between dogs. Dogs are pack animals and exhibit dominant actions, such as growls, stares or body checks. Cats, on the other hand, don't live or hunt in packs. If two or more cats live together, the hierarchy might be present but humans might not recognise the subtle dominance signals and cat secret talk is used to decide hierarchy. One sure-fire way to upset a hierarchy is to introduce a new cat. The newcomer's status is unclear so the other cats will use their secret communication to sort the situation out.

Cat Communication and Territory

Cats are territorial animals. Their territory is usually a combination of places they share with other cats and other places they consider theirs and their alone. A cat marks its territory by urinating, scratching or rubbing its body on an object. Other cats can see these marks as clearly as signposts, telling them which other cat's territory they are in. Cats can detect pheromones in urine or from a place where another cat has rubbed itself.

With so many ways of determining territory, hierarchy and much more, cats hardly need words!

Thomas Kellerman has been training cats for many years. To find out more about cat secret talk and how they communicate, just visit: http://www.ourcatsecrets.com/cat-chat-how-cats-communicate.html

If you've ever watched as a cat "flipped" over fresh catnip perhaps you've been struck with the question; "what causes Catnip to affect cats that way?" Catnip is indeed an unusual phenomenon among cats, it has the ability to alter your cat's behavior like nothing else can. So what exactly is the reason for what scientists have coined as "the Catnip effect"?

Unfortunately for such inquisitive minds the exact reason of why Catnip affects cats in such a manner remains mostly a mystery. There is however much that we do know about Catnip and cats even if we don't have the ultimate answer of exactly "why?" yet answered.

The Science Stuff

Catnip is scientifically classified as Nepeta cataria and is a perennial herb from the mint family and is in fact also referred to as "Catmint". It is a plant indigenous to Europe but has been exported and is now found all over including the United States and Canada.

The active ingredient in Catnip is an oil; Nepetalactone, which is found in the leaves of the plant. This is the reason you are able to find Catnip in a bottle or spray form in some pet stores.

Other Uses For Catnip

Catnip is not only good to stimulate activity in cats, it can also be used by humans as an herb for a medicinal tea which may soothe toothaches, help against coughs, and may also perform as a sleep aid. Furthermore, Catnip can be used as an herb on salads or other foods as has been the case for centuries in France. Lately Catnip has also been garnering favor as a natural insect repellant rivaling the effectiveness of many store bought varieties of repellant.

Catnip and Kitty

Catnip affects approximately half of all cats. What determines whether or not a cat will react to Catnip is a genome that is inherited (or not inherited as the case may be) at birth. Kittens, regardless of whether or not they carry this genome, do not react to Catnip until reaching about 3 or 4 months of age and becoming sexually mature. Older cats are also more likely to have a diminished or non-existing reaction to Catnip, which leads scientists to believe that the Catnip effect is based at least partially on sexuality and that the reaction may be something like an aphrodisiac. Further adding to this belief is the similarity of a sexual pheromone found in the urine of the male cat to nepetalactone (the active product in Catnip).

Cats that can be traced to regions where Catnip is not indigenous appear to be unaffected by Catnip. The domesticated housecat is not the only cat that may be affected by Catnip. Larger cats can also be affected by the Catnip effect, felines such as the bobcat, lynx, tiger and even lion are known to react much the same way the common housecat would. It is interesting to note that while Catnip can act as a stimulant when a cat sniffs it, it can conversely act as a relaxant if ingested. Therefore, you may see a different, nearly opposite result depending on whether your cat chooses to eat the Catnip you provide for him/her or merely sniffs it (the latter being the more typical behavior).

How to Use Catnip With Your Cat

Catnip can prove to be a very useful tool for a few common problems with your cat. If you are lucky enough to have a cat that does react favorably to Catnip then here are a couple of ideas for you and your furry little friend.

Catnip and Lazy Cats:

Catnip can be used to get a lazy cat off his or her butt. Some cats are notoriously lazy, choosing to sleep much of their day away in a nice golden patch of sunlight on the living room carpet, only waking up to eat and gather some necessary attention from their indulgent owners. If this sounds like your cat, you may soon see (if you haven't already) that your cat is becoming more and more round. This is generally not a good thing. Catnip may be able to help. Presenting catnip to your cat encourages activity (of course provided the cat sniffs rather than eats the herb).

Many adult cats will respond to Catnip in a manner that resembles their childlike kitten hyperactivity, jumping, playing and running around as if it was given an injection of kitty adrenaline, which in essence, is the case. The effect of Catnip on a cat can last somewhere between two and fifteen minutes. If the latter is the case, then this is a decent amount of exercise and will help keep your cat a little more svelte than without a Catnip treatment. Furthermore, if you leave the Catnip out for a few hours then your cat may return to the herb later (an hour or two after the effect has worn off) and again react in an energetic fashion. So in this sense you may consider Catnip sort of like a kitty energy drink.

Catnip and Cats That Scratch Furniture:

If you have a cat that seems bent on the destruction of your furniture then Catnip may again be able to come to the rescue. Cats can be frustratingly picky about just about anything under the sun including where they want to sharpen their furniture destroying claws. It is not uncommon for a cat to damage or destroy a piece of furniture just because the owners finally gave up on trying to redirect their cat to the unused cat scratching post that set them back anywhere up to a hundred dollars and more. A good way to attempt to change this frustrating and expensive behavior is to rub some Catnip or Catnip oil on a scratching post that you are attempting to get the cat to use. Introduce your cat to the newly "Catnipped" scratching post and see how he/she reacts. If all goes well, your cat will sniff and inspect the post and then begin clawing at it. After a few times (you may have to re-Catnip the post) hopefully kitty will be trained to use the post rather than the sofa.

Using Catnip with Multiple Cats

If you've never used Catnip before and you have more than one cat it is advisable to try it out individually on each cat before introducing it to all of your cats at the same time. The reason is because Catnip affects some cats in a negative manner causing the cat in question to become aggressive rather than merely playful. Introducing it to your cats individually enables you to control the situation and keep a cat that may react aggressively isolated from your other cats. This of course means avoiding a possible catfight that could result in broken furniture, hurt kitties (possibly requiring a vet visit), annoyed neighbors (and probably owners), or a combination of all of the above.

Growing and Keeping Catnip

Growing your own Catnip can be rewarding as it can save you money, give you the satisfaction of doing something yourself and ensuring that you always get fresh, high-quality Catnip for your cat. A word of caution however; the exact kitty reaction you want to grow your own Catnip is something to be wary of. If you plan on growing your Catnip out of doors and other cats can access your Catnip garden then be prepared for unwelcome feline visitors. This may not be a problem for you personally, but cats are by nature territorial and if you have a cat that lives alone without the company of other cats this could prove to be an area of stress for your cat. Even if you keep your cat inside at all times, your cat may get agitated if he/she looks out the window to see another cat frolicking in territory your cat considers his or her own. If you choose to grow your Catnip indoors, be careful to keep it out of reach of kitty. Otherwise you'll likely have Fluffy jumping up on furniture even to the most out of the way place to get access to the tempting herb. Cats are great jumpers and not really known for respecting precious household knick-knacks. So if you do decide to grow it indoors for a cat that reacts to Catnip, be careful to grow it in a place that your cat won't be able to access it. A room that you always keep closed to the cat is probably the best solution for indoor grown Catnip.

If you do find that your cat reacts positively to Catnip you should be sure to use it sparingly so as not to dull the effect which can be the result of overexposure. A good rule of thumb is to not treat your kitty more than once a week on average to Catnip.

Given all the positive effects that Catnip may have on your cat you owe it to yourself (and naturally your fluffy little ball of affection) to see how he/she reacts to this strange and well known herb. It will provide enjoyment and exercise for your cat and most likely an entertaining show for yourself as well. It's a win win situation.

Andy Markison is an illustrator, graphic designer, animal lover and pet owner living in Germany. His website, ZapGraphix.com, sells fun and humorous pet related merchandise.

Food

Dry food has been a recommended staple diet for cats by many experts for a number of years. It is an easy option to leave a bowl of dry food out constantly; something that cannot be done with tinned food. Unfortunately though, it's not a natural food source and has been developed by humans using many additives and un-natural products. Cats, like humans, will eat until they fill themselves up. However, dry food has many more calories and carbohydrates than a natural food source, which leads to the cat taking in far more than necessary just to feel full-up. Many owners assume that their cat is just greedy, but in many cases it is not the quantity of food being eaten, it is the quality.

Naturally, cats are obligate carnivores; meaning they only feed on other animals. The cats prey however, are generally herbivorous and have various vegetable and plant matter in their guts. All of which, will be consumed by the cat. Domestic cats have been shown to have longer intestines than wild cats; proving they have evolved over hundreds of years to cope with more plant and vegetable matter (carbohydrates). Still, this is no excuse to turn a carnivore into an omnivore. Rather, supplementing the diet with small amounts of carbohydrates is acceptable.

Many consumers believe that dried food is actually better for cats. The manufacturers have implemented the belief that all these additives such as corn and grains are an important part of a cat's diet, implying 'the more the better' approach. Although very small quantities of these may benefit the cat, too much will be detrimental to their health.

Kidney disease is one of, if not the biggest killer in cats. Kidney disease is usually a result of lack of water and unfortunately, cats have a very low thirst drive. Although they may drink when eating dry food, they will generally only take in half of the liquid necessary for their health. A cat's prey item consists of around 75% water, canned and raw foods have a similar amount. Dry foods on the other hand usually have a maximum of 10% water content. It is obvious therefore, that canned or raw foods are an absolute must to maintain a healthy cat.

Cats need a high level of protein in their diet which must come from animals. Plant protein differs from meat protein, and should not be substituted. When protein is calculated in canned food, the moisture content must be subtracted from 100 and the protein percentage worked out from the result. For instance, a canned food with 8% protein and 75% water means that the true protein value should be worked out like so:

Non-Moisture Content = 25% so: 8 ÷ 25 x 100 = 32

Therefore: True Protein Value = 32% which is ideal.

The amino acid 'taurine' is also an essential part of a cat's diet, and can only be found in meat products. It is recommended that a quantity of 2000mg/kg or 0.2% should be available in canned food. Other vitamins and minerals should also be included. Preservatives, colouring and added flavours are used more for the customers benefit rather than the cats. If it looks and smells nice to a human, there is a higher chance of them buying it.

There are very few foods on the market which actually have an ideal amount of everything included. Many diets have concentrated on having high a protein and moisture diet with low carbohydrates, but lack in having enough taurine or vitamin B. If this is the case, offering other canned foods on occasion that are better in these areas should be considered. This will also help stop the cat becoming addicted to any 1 food type. Inter-changing the various meats such as beef, chicken and fish will also benefit by offering varying amounts of vitamins, minerals and oils.

Buy quality, not quantity. Most cheap cat foods are cheap for a reason. Avoid buying canned foods that say 'meat', 'by-products', 'bone meal' or 'animal digest'. Chemical preservatives such as 'BHA', 'BHT', 'ethoxyquin' and 'propyl gallate' have been seriously questioned as being detrimental to the health of cats, and should also be avoided. Canned foods are a must for adding much needed calcium into the diet, which is essential for building healthy bones and teeth.

High energy food has been designed for cats with high energy levels. This food will not benefit a cat which sits around all day, in fact in will make the situation worse. High energy foods will not make a less active cat become energetic.

There is a common misconception that canned food is bad for your cat's teeth, and dry food is good. Unfortunately neither statement is completely true. Neither food types are actually good for the health of teeth. Dry food is hard and crunchy, completely the opposite of what a cat's teeth are designed to do, which is tear away at meat. I recommend you brush and rinse your cat's teeth on a regular occasion.

There are two methods to feeding a cat. The first is to leave a bowl of food out all the time. This is obviously done with dry food and not meat. Since we recommend feeding a diet of canned or raw meat, this method is not acceptable and you should opt for the second method. This is to have a feeding regime of 2 to 4 times per day. Feeding this way allows a more controlled amount of food being eaten. You need to decide how many times per day you will feed your cat. The more often the better, but if you are an owner which is out during the day several times a week, it may be better to opt for a twice a day routine. Alternatively, cat feeding dishes which are set on a timer can be purchased and are a good option if you only go out on occasions.

The total amount of canned food your cat should is listed below. It is important to divide this total amount of food up equally among all of its feeds. The chart below is appropriate to cats that are getting their appropriate amount of calorie intake per day, which is approximately 25 calories per pound in weight. This chart is for healthy adult cats weighing approximately 8-10lbs. Not overweight or obese cats.

Type / Age of Cat Weight of Canned Food

2 - 10 Years 200g

Geriatric (10 Years +) 160g

Neutered or Spayed 160g

Inactive or Indoor 160g

Treats

Treats are given to cats for different reasons depending on the owner. Surveys have shown that overweight humans are more likely to have overweight pets. They show that overweight people are unable to control their own weight properly due to lack of will power. They have the same lack of will power when their pets are 'begging' for treats.

Treats are often given because it is a way of making the pet feel more welcome. If the owner is out of the house all day, they often make up for it by giving treats. This is the easy way of doing things and totally unhealthy. Rather, making up for it by spending just 5 quality minutes with the pet is far more rewarding. You may decide to simply brush the cat, or you could play with it by throwing a small toy mouse or ball around. Either way, the cat will enjoy being with you more than it will eating a treat, and exercise will aid its health.

Some owners offer treats because they think the cat doesn't eat enough dinner. The treats are designed and flavoured to be 'irresistible' to the cat, and they will eat it whether they are hungry or not. Treats should not be offered for this reason. Providing your cat looks healthy and is the appropriate weight, it will be feeding just fine. If your cat is a poor feeder, they should be tempted by other feeding methods, not with treats.

Higher Risk Cats

Neutered or Spayed

I would like to point out before anything, that the act of neutering or spaying your cat will not make it overweight. Rather, it is how you care for it afterwards that will affect its weight.

A neutered cat loses its desire to 'roam' like an 'intact' cat would do. They are not as inquisitive and generally get less exercise than intact cats. Because of this, their metabolism is slower than normal by around 20-25%. With a slower metabolism, comes a lower need for calories. A neutered or spayed cat should intake approximately 20% less calories.

Breed

Some breeds of cat are naturally slimmer than other breeds; such as the Siamese and Ornamental Short Hair. These breeds are far better at maintaining a good body condition than larger breeds. Pedigree cats are also generally fitter than non-pedigree individuals.

Age

Cats are most likely to become overweight from about 2 to 12 years of age. Younger cats have a much higher metabolism and are more energetic than older individuals. Older cats often eat far less, and it is more common for geriatric cats to become skinnier rather than heavier.

Indoor Cats

Indoor cats have many factors weighing them down. To start with, the most obvious factor is being indoors all the time. There is little stimulation inside, and they will not get the exercise that an outdoor cat will be able to. Many static toys that are offered to indoor cats become boring. They will soon lose interest in scratching posts and similar toys. Repetitive electronic toys can also become predictable and boring. The most enjoyable form of playing for the cat is to interact with the owner. Waving string around or rolling a small ball around will keep the cat amused for far longer.

Being inside all the time also means more contact with the owner is likely. This usually means more treats are given.

The temperature is an important factor too. An outdoor cat will use more energy and have a higher metabolism simply to maintain its body temperature. Cats living in centrally heated houses don't have to use much energy to get their body temperature controlled.

Social Environment

This is an area where you just can't win. There are advantages and disadvantages of having one cat or having multiple cats.

Only cats do not have the same competition for food that a multi-cat household may have. Therefore they may not be as eager to eat as much food and as quickly as a cat in competition with other cats will do. However, only cats are more likely to become bored and have less stimulation around them compared to a cat living with others. Cats have been known to take on habits like humans, such as eating when bored like an only cat may do. They may also eat more when they are stressed, like a cat living in a multi-cat household may do.

A household with more humans is far more likely to inflict extra weight onto a cat. It means more people offering treats, and more people to feed the cat dinner. It is common for many households to become confused as to whether or not the cat has been fed, and if in doubt they will feed it again.

Disabilities

This applies to humans and pets alike. Humans with physical disabilities are less likely to play and exercise their pets. The situation becomes worse if the cat is an indoor cat.

Disabled cats are often 'over-protected' by their owners. Most are automatically turned into indoor cats if they get a disability, and become an excuse for more treats to be offered. Most cats can still exercise and have their mind stimulated with various disabilities. In fact many cats with disabilities will deteriorate quicker if they are not exercised and the mind stimulated properly.

Neighbours

Do you have cat friendly neighbours? Do you know if your cat has gone into other people's houses before? It is common for other cat lovers to feed a cat that has wondered into their house.

If you think this happens, place a tag onto the cat which is clearly visible and ask politely not to feed the cat. Some people will ignore this, thinking it will not do any harm. To get around this, state that you cat has 'Special Dietary Needs'. They are more likely to pay attention when they think feeding them the wrong food could potentially harm them.

By Chris Jones
Director of Pet Club UK Ltd.
http://www.petclubuk.com

Owning a ferret can be great fun. But before you can enjoy some time with your new pet, it is important you know what it takes to care for your little fun loving fur-ball. Ferret care can be very easy, its just you need to know what's best, most of which is common sense and if you have owned other pets then you are off to a good start. This top 10 guide will walk you through the things you must know about your ferrets care.

Ferrets Care Tip #1: Pay Close Attention to What You Feed Your Little Critter. Ferrets are carnivorous animals and will therefore generally eat meat and meat byproducts. Since they have a very high metabolism and a fast acting digestive system, they will be eating numerous times in a given day. Therefore, it will be your job to ensure that it gets food each time it is hungry. That said note that a typical ferret diet needs to be high in protein and fat while low in fiber and carbohydrates.

Ferrets Care Tip #2: Leave a Constant Supply of Water Ferrets drink a lot of water in a day therefore you need to ensure that they have constant access to clean water. At the same time you also need to make sure that the water is fresh. Hence, you should be changing the water at least twice in a day if possible.

Ferrets Care Tip #3: Opt for Plastic Flooring in Your Ferret's Cage Having a plastic floor in your ferret's cage will not only benefit your pet, but it will also help you out in the long run. Since most wire mesh cages run the risk of the little critter getting its feet stuck somewhere or the other, the plastic floor will help negate this problem and allow your ferret to roam freely in its cage. Meanwhile, the plastic flooring will facilitate the cleaning of the cage; something you must do at least once every week.

Ferrets Care Tip #4: Give Your Ferret Enough Playtime These little fun loving fur-balls are playful animals and therefore you must give them at least 2 hours of playtime outside their cage daily. Not only will these sessions keep your ferret happy, but they will also act as exercise which keeps them in tip-top shape.

Ferrets Care Tip #5: Have Your Pet Sprayed or Neutered Not only will this help reduce any pet odor, but it might also help save its life. The latter point is truer for female ferrets, which if not bred in heat, can sometimes die of anemia.

Ferrets Care Tip #6: Keep a Close Eye on Weather Conditions It is imperative that you protect your ferret from heat and sunlight. Anything over 80 degrees Fahrenheit can be lethal for your pet so be careful each time the weather gets hot.

Ferrets Care Tip #7: Give Them Toys - The More The Merrier Giving toys to your ferret will stimulate and enhance its play time. Just make sure that the toys do not contain any item that can be swallowed, for instance a button.

Ferrets Care Tip #8: Visit a Veterinarian Vaccinations for your pet are an integral part of care and ownership. Therefore, make it a point to go to a vet who will not only vaccinate your pet, but will also tell you about various preventive measures for common diseases and viruses ferrets are prone to.

Ferrets Care Tip #9: Treats Treats can be a very good idea when training your pet. They allow for positive reinforcement which will greatly enhance the training sessions. Remember though that you must never overindulge in giving treats as the high amounts of vitamins and fatty oils in the treats can cause serious health concerns. As a rule of thumb; never give your ferret more than a single teaspoon of treats in a day.

Ferrets Care Tip #10: Love Your Pet As you probably guessed by now these animals are extremely social creatures and therefore the love you shower on your pet will go a long, long way to keeping them happy. It is imperative that you spend time with your ferret on a daily basis. Your love, and your care, will ultimately decide how happy they are.

Megan Howard is a real ferret enthusiast with years of experience in keeping and raising them. Since being bought her first pet ferret when she was 7, she has gained an enormous amount of knowledge and know how over the last 15 years on how to create the best relationship with your pet and how to ensure your ferret is the happiest, healthiest and most fun loving ferret it possibly could be.

If you would like more ferrets care tips and advice then why not visit http://www.babyferretcare.com, theres even a FREE email mini-course you can get on how to Raise a Healthy Ferret!

In the wild, rabbits would always hunt and scavenge for food and grazing. The food they consume are usually low in nutrients so it is necessary for them to eat and graze constantly to maintain their energy level.

Sadly, many pet owners who own rabbits are not able to provide sufficient low energy foods that a rabbit can chew on. Some pet owners are unaware that a rabbit's teeth grow continually so they must gnaw and graze to prevent teeth from becoming overgrown.

Overgrown teeth are very painful for rabbits. This is why, it is often a pet rabbit's habit to chew on whatever item the bunny could find including the rabbit hutch. Since most rabbit hutches are made of wooden frames, a rabbit can easily chew on it much to the dismay of the owner. A rabbit can destroy its hutch in a few weeks or months and then you would have to buy a new one again.

Here are some practical tips to avoid hutch-chewing habits.

1. Improve your rabbit's diet. Rabbits should be provided with enough foods to chew on throughout the day. Add more crunchy vegetables like carrots into your pet's diet. Don't forget to throw in some hay, wooden blocks, and chew toys. You can stuff hay mangers or cardboard tubes like toilet roll tubes to make the chewing more enjoyable for your bunny.

2. Place your rabbit in a large rabbit run. Sometimes, rabbits chew because they are restless and bored. They are very active in the wild so it's a problem for them if they don't have sufficient space to stand on their legs and run around. If you don't have a large space in your home, a good idea would be to have a regular sized hutch and have a large Folding Rabbit Run so that your bunny would have a chance to run around. You can also take out your pet for a stroll around the house. Ensuring that your rabbit has a daily dose of active play and exercise is one way to keep your pet from chewing its hutch.

3. Hide toys and treats around the hutch. Rabbits love searching and hunting for food. Just make sure that you do not hide the items too well that it would be too difficult for your pet to find them.

4. Buy a high quality rabbit hutch. Superior quality means that your rabbit won't be able to destroy the hutch you have bought. High quality rabbit hutches are widely available online. Find a reputable store that sells hutches made of durable materials. After your bunny learns that no chewing can get this hutch, your pet would search on for other items to chew on. Be sure to provide crunchy vegetables and toys for his to gnaw upon.

Rabbits love to chew, that is a fact. It is understandable that there would be times that you would get frustrated on this habit of your pet. Not only would you be spending a lot of money on replacing your rabbit's hutch every now and then, it would also be time-consuming to keep on buying a new home for your beloved pet. The best thing you can do is to keep these tips in mind so you can put an end to your rabbit's hutch-chewing habits.

Christopher Lunsford is a rabbit lover and an expert in online pet products. He regularly volunteers at his local animal shelter and loves educating others about animals. To learn more about rabbit runs, rabbit cage and folding rabbit run, rabbit pens, please visit him online.