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Purchasing a ferret is a decision that requires plenty of thought as it requires considerable time and effort to take care of them. Coming from the mustelid family, ferrets are considered exotic animals. However this family history also means that ferrets have an odor that manifests once they are adults. To counter this, de-scenting and neutering are excellent moves if you are not into ferret breeding. Ferrets require regular visits to their vet for vaccines and checkups.

A healthy balanced diet is a must for ferrets and this can be provided by either good quality cat food or ferret food which are available in most pet stores. Be sure to check though that your choice of food contains at least 35% protein and 20 % fat. Compared to felines, ferrets need more fats. Poultry fat is a more optimal mix of essential fatty acids and is considered more desirable for ferrets. Fresh water is essential for ferrets as well and they prefer drinking from bowls rather than bottles. However if you are unable to change the bowl water at least once a day, then you are better off using the bottle.

Safe housing is important for your ferret as well. The cage must be roomy, safe and easy to clean. The spacing of the cage is of major importance since ferrets have this ability to squeeze in their heads in unbelievable small holes. Make sure too that the cage is free of any stuff that may trap your ferrets feet. Ferrets love to run around and play. Because of this, an ill chosen cage might end up harming the ferret. After all, the ferret sleeps fifteen to twenty hours daily. Since they love dark, padded areas, your ferret is bound to spend lots of time inside. Putting hammocks and sleeping sacks can provide excellent devices for sleeping, hiding or just plain hanging out. You may want to consider draping a sheet over their cage since this would give them a really nice dark place along with privacy for playing or sleeping.

One of the main past times of a ferret is chewing anything he can find. Everything within reach is fair game so beware of what you leave out there. Be mindful of things which may be hazardous to them. Check their cage often to ensure all is well and that your ferret is safe from becoming a victim of intestinal blockage.

Being social creatures, ferrets need to be introduced to humans once they hit thirty days old. Allow your ferret to get out of his cage at least twice every day in a ferret proof room. But never leave an unattended ferret outside a cage since they have a propensity for getting injured. The more you handle them, the better it will be for training and for interaction purposes. These creatures love cuddling and when they do it with you, it feels really great. They can also be litter trained and the sooner they are introduced to a litter box, the higher your chances for success. As a pet, ferrets are a lot of fun and extremely loving and as you interact with them more and more, you also increase their chances of living a long and healthy life.

Preparations For Your Ferrets Homecoming

Some basic things must be known and done before you bring your ferret home. The most basic is choosing the ferrets home. When you do this, keep in mind that a great deal of your ferrets time will be spent here so you must ensure that it is both comfortable and safe for them. There many types of cages to choose from so ensure that your ferret is provided with enough room for running around while making sure at the same time that there are no gaps that can catch your ferret and end injuring it. There must always be soft bedding inside the cage to ensure that your ferret is comfortable.

Plastic bottomed cages are preferable to metal bottomed ones that tend to rust and look quite worn after just a few washings. If your cage uses plastic coated metal, make sure that your ferret is not hard at work chewing off the plastic as this can lead to intestinal blockage. Get a cage that has multi layers and large sized doors. The large doors ensure that your ferret does not get stuck on his way out. Purchasing sleeping sacks and hammocks are also recommended as they provide many areas for your ferret to sleep making them more comfortable and happy. These creatures are asleep for 15 to 20 hours every day so sleeping quarters are of supreme importance. Don't forget though that to have a happy ferret, you must give him 2 hours of freedom daily. Try to do this in a ferret proofed room to ensure their safety.

Ferrets need toys as well but care must be taken when choosing these toys as some can be deadly to your ferret. The ability of the toy to withstand sharp teeth is a prime consideration. In this respect, cat toys can make excellent ferret toys as well. Steer clear of foam or plastic toys that are quite frail and never leave toys in the cage unless there is someone supervising. Ferrets might eat their toys and end up with intestinal blockage that may require surgery. Being members of the Mustelid family, ferrets do have a distinct odor so it may be in your best interest to have your vet de-scent and neuter them already. After all, these procedures can be done concurrently. Then once you have your ferret at home, follow the vets orders to the letter so your ferret will be healthy once again. Vaccinations and regular checkups are a must since most kits only received one set of vaccines. When the prescribed first series of distemper shots are over, succeeding shots will only have to be done annually. Ferrets also require booster vaccination.

When feeding your ferret, it is critical that it be either top quality cat food or ferret specific food made from something other than frozen meat. Make sure that you know what brand of food your ferret was eating prior to the homecoming. Switching brands will require weaning off the old food. Do this by mixing a small amount of the new food with the old and increase the quantity until the food is only from the new food already. Avoid snacks for your ferret as they are not only unnecessary but can also be the cause of many health issues. If you must give snacks, give cooked meat or eggs. Sugary treats may just harm your ferret.

As you can see, preparing a home for a ferret involves so many things but they are all essential for making sure that your new pet will be both safe and in good health.

Get your free mini-course to discover all of the joys of finding, raising, and playing with your wonderfully cuddly pet ferret.

Come get your free mini-course today at http://www.ferretsandferretcare.com

Either you own a ferret right now or probably deciding on adopting a new ferret to be part of your pets at home. If one or both of them are true, here are some guidelines for you to follow to make sure that your plan will be a success.

You own a ferret right now:

You most probably have a well setup place for your ferret at home right now, that is good, you already have most of the basic things setup for a ferret's needs. A good cage or place for them to sleep in, containing the necessary sleeping sacks, ferret hammocks and beddings. Good nutritional food that provides the right kind of diet, and of course, fresh clean water every day. The appropriate durable toys within a play pen that your ferret really enjoys playing with and a loving family that cares for them.

So, what would you need to know in case you would want to have another ferret at home that you would want to be your ferret's company? You first need to know that ferrets are territorial animals, meaning that they demand space from other ferrets. It also depends on your ferret's age, if you have an adult ferret and you are bringing home a younger one, chances are better for the both of them to get along. Though you have to introduce the new ferret to the current one at home slowly, this would mean that you need to buy a new toy for both of them to play with. And not use the old toy that belongs to the current one, this belongs to him, and it will stay that way until he finally accepts the new comer.

If you think that your cage is suited for only one ferret, it would be best to buy a new cage. But if it is possible for one more ferret, and then prepare separate items of sleeping sacks, hammocks and beddings.

You might notice that the first time they be together, they would wrestle, run around, bite each other and make noises. This is normal as they adjust to each other, but if you notice that the sound of screaming is asking for help, separate them and let them meet again the following day. Do this for a few days until they acquainted and get along together.

In terms of their food, ask about the brand of food that your new ferret is eating. If it's a different brand, wean him off from the one he is having by buying that brand first and mixing it with a small amount of food that you are giving your current ferret. Then slowly increase the amount of food that you mix until he finally gets the hang of eating the food that you provide.

It is best to give a high-quality food rather than an average or low quality brand; you would be able to save more money in costs. If you provide a high quality brand, your ferret will not eat much as the amount of nutrients provided are already enough; compared to an average or low quality food, they tend to eat more until they feel that their body's needs are met, so you have to buy their food more often.

Adding a new ferret to your pets:

If you have a dog and a cat at home and you plan to add a ferret, you might reconsider to let your pets get along together. Ferrets bite, and they bite pretty hard, so you need to train them to bite gently when playing with you or your pets. Always be there to supervise them when they play together, as they might injure the other pets or get injured themselves.

Prepare a cage or a place for your ferrets to sleep in with the necessary items, and make sure that they are not disturbed by your other pets during their sleeping hours. Be prepared for a highly energetic pet as ferrets love to play around, running, jumping, climbing and really having a good time. So you might want to rearrange your things at home, make sure that they are not easy for ferrets to reach, and protect the rubber wires as ferrets love to chew on them.

It usually takes a while to let them get along together, but you could be assured that once they do, you'll see them happily playing with each other. So be prepared for a really exciting and lovable new pet at home.

Benjie Mangulabnan is a Ferret enthusiast, and enjoys helping others get started in this amazing pet care. His newest book, "Learning About Ferret Care [http://www.ferretcareadvisor.com/fca.html]", teaches Ferret owners everything they need to know about owning and caring for their lovable pets. You could find out more about a new ferret [http://www.ferretcareadvisor.com/new-ferret/] by visiting his site.

Many rabbit owners come to think of their rabbits as children. They lavish their bunnies with all the indulgence and attention one might give to a small child, never missing an opportunity to slip Flopsy a treat. Unfortunately, rabbits that are consistently spoiled by overfeeding of treats, and especially the wrong treats, will suffer severe health problems. Excessive snacking is a common cause of obesity and other health problems in pet rabbits, but is easily avoided by following some common-sense guidelines.

It helps to begin with a basic understanding of the rabbit digestive system. When a rabbit eats, the food first passes into the stomach. Not much happens here- the food is simply sterilized to prepare it for further digestion. The food continues down into the small colon, where the majority of the sugar and protein is digested, as in humans. Indigestible fiber continues down the digestive tract, and although no nutrients are absorbed from it, it cleans out the tract and conditions the muscles that keep waste moving through the system, before being excreted as the hard, dry pellets you find in the litterbox.

At this point, though, a great deal of the mass of hay and grass the rabbit has eaten has not yet been digested. These tough, hard to digest materials are diverted into an organ called the cecum, which is home to a thriving bacterial metropolis. These beneficial bacteria do the dirty work of breaking down tough compounds like lignin and cellulose, which would otherwise be impossible to digest. The partially digested food, clumped into mucous-covered pellets called cecotrophes or "night pellets", is then passed back into the colon and excreted, only to be immediately re-ingested by the rabbit! This "coprophagic" behavior isn't something you want to think about much if you're squeamish, but luckily, it tends to happen out of sight- hence the term "night pellets." Pleasant or not, it is an absolutely essential biological process for rabbits, and anything that disturbs this process will lead to health problems.

The bacterial colony in the cecum is delicately balanced. Beneficial bacteria must compete with "squatter" bacteria that do not contribute to the digestive process, as well as adapting to the rabbit's internal chemistry. They thrive on consistency- no news is good news, as far as cecal bacteria are concerned. When you give a rabbit a sweet, sugary treat, those bacteria suddenly have a rich supply of quick, easy energy to feed on, and their population explodes. The chemistry of the cecum shifts, and the bacteria have to struggle to adjust. When this happens, rabbit owners often observe what is known in technical terms as "poopy butt syndrome." The rabbit's cecotrophes lose their consistency, and instead of passing cleanly from the anus and being re-eaten, they cake onto the rabbit's rear. This can lead to a whole host of other problems, and if the problem is not addressed, may end in death.

At this point, you might be wondering, "Why give rabbits treats at all?" The answer is pretty straightforward: for all the same reasons you would give a child an ice cream cone. It makes the child happy, which is its own reward, and it can be a great way to reinforce a positive behavior. Rabbits are the same. They enjoy those rich, sweet snacks just as much as we do, and a little dessert now and again will be a pleasure to your bunny. Moreover, treats are extremely useful when it comes to litter training, teaching tricks, or simply establishing a pet-owner bond. When healthful treats are given in sensible quantities, the end results should be an improvement in the rabbit's overall quality of life.

Rabbit treats usually fall into one of several categories: Compressed cereal bars/sticks, mueslix, pellets or puffed kibble, and candied treats. What all types of rabbit treats have in common are high levels of sugar, fat, protein, and starch. Any one of these nutrients can lead to the kinds of problems mentioned earlier, so it's important to restrict your rabbit's intake of any treat. Yoghurt-covered cqandy drops are the worst culprits in this respect, and though many rabbits love these treats, they should probably be avoided except on the most special occasions, or when the rabbit is underweight. Seed and grain mixes seem are a better alternative, as they contain little sugar, but remember that seeds are rich, high-protein packages. Rabbits retain body fat even better than humans, so that they can keep warm while wintering, but since you should be keeping your rabbit indoors for the winter, you want to keep them from bulking up unnecessarily. As an alternative to packaged treats, try fresh fruit. Rabbits typically enjoy berries, melon, papaya, apple (without stem or seeds), and many others. Bananas are a bit more starchy and sweet than you really want, so they should probably be avoided.

At the end of the day, rabbits are individuals, and there are no hard and fast rules for them. The best way to give your rabbits treats in a sensible, healthy manner is to introduce them as gradually as possible. As you begin to give treats on a limited basis, keep observing your rabbit. If he loses appetite, develops diarrhea or becomes gassy, or begins to put on weight excessively, stop giving treats for a while. When the problem is resolved, you can try offering something else, ideally something with a lower sugar or protein content. Keep experimenting, but always be patient and conservative. You should be able to find a healthy balance for your rabbit, one that is stimulating and enjoyable without negatively impacting its overall quality of life.

Even healthy Rabbit Treats can have ill effects on your pet rabbit if you feed them excessively. It's hard not to spoil your rabbit but you must ration the amount of treats you provide them, to ensure your rabbit stays healthy and happy. In addition to treats it's of the utmost importance to provide your rabbit with quality Rabbit Cages to relax in.

Do you know what you're putting into your dog's dish every day? Here you'll learn about some of the most important things to consider when feeding a dog.

Your dog is a cherished member of your family, so you need to give serious thought to feeding your dog the same quality of food that you would actually eat yourself and feed to your kids.

Feeding a dog the right foods with all of the nutritional value a dog requires to keep him or her in optimal health throughout life is a vital component in determining a dog's behavior and is even instrumental in prolonging it's life.

There are certain things that dogs just shouldn't eat, some of which can make them very sick or even kill them. Eliminating the bad foods and selecting the best foods can be a real challenge, especially with all of the inconsistent information and blatant lies being circulated by pet food manufacturers and their agents.

We hope that providing you with enough valuable information, tips and suggestions on feeding a dog a nutritious diet will make those selections easier for you and the everyday routine of feeding a dog an enjoyable experience for both you and your dog.

There are now so many choices available when you shop for dog food it's mind-boggling, so it's perfectly understandable why finding the best ones to buy can be extremely confusing. Should you buy canned food, dry food or semi-moist food? Should you spend a lot of money for premium dog food, or is the cheapest brand okay? Should you buy holistic/organic dog food or should you even make your dog's food yourself. What about the possibility of getting creative with the choices and feeding a dog some combination?

What we just mentioned is only a sample of the many questions and challenges you may encounter when deciding what you should be feeding a dog. If you'd like greater detail and, hopefully, some answers to those questions, stay with us through this article. Also, watch for additional articles, in the near future, where we'll be providing you with much more detailed information on every aspect of providing a healthy and nutritious diet for your dog.

We are not attempting to tell you what the best food choices are for your dog, we are simply offering as much information as we can and listing various options so that you can make your own informed decisions on what foods will provide the highest level of nutrition for your dog. We realize dog nutrition can be a complex topic, so we'll try to break it all down and simplify it for you as much as possible.

Below, we list some important basics you should know if you feed any commercial dog food to your dog. We'll get into greater detail about each of them on our website and blog and in the articles to follow.

So,what's the most important thing?

Quality: You might think selecting a brand of dog food should be as easy as finding one that fits within your budget and one your dog likes. But you need to very careful; there are a great many brands on the market that are made almost entirely of filler and don't have many of the nutrients dogs need. In addition, some of them contain toxic ingredients that can seriously harm your dog.

We realize convenience can be one of the biggest factors in feeding a dog commercial dog foods. If store bought dog food is the primary source of nutrition for your dog, it's very important that it contain all the vitamins and minerals needed by your dog everyday for it's optimal health and longevity.

The biggest difference in all dog foods is in their source of protein. Cheaper dog foods use the very least expensive sources of protein available, some of which will shock and utterly disgust you. Therefore, the quality of the protein in less expensive dog foods, like generic or grocery store labeled brands, is vastly inferior. Even some of the name brands use inferior ingredients...you really need to know what to look for.

There are so many disgusting "protein" ingredients that some commercial dog food manufacturers use, it's not only repulsive, it's outright criminal! Please be sure you know exactly "what" the protein consists of when you're feeding a dog.

Avoid getting inexpensive no-name or store brand dog foods because they are most often produced by bulk manufacturers who use the worst forms of ingredients, and whose actions and lack of ethics are just plain loathsome. Do your best to find a quality dog food to give to your dog.

Be aware that you can be seriously mislead if you only consider the "percentage" of protein that's listed on the label. This does not tell you anything about it's quality, what that protein source is or how well your dog will absorb it. Some dog food manufacturers are very cagey when it comes to listing "percentages"

There are a number of different things you should be looking for if you want to choose high quality food for your dog. You may want to start by comparing the prices and ingredients of various brands of commercial dog food. Start with the premium brands first and then move into the lower quality products. Look for significant differences in where each of the ingredients are listed and what nutritional values each brand contains.

The very best dog foods will list some form of animal meat as their main ingredient on the label or bag. Look for brands that give only the kind of meat used (like chicken, beef, lamb, etc) without adding "by-products", or anything else along with it. This means that the product contains choice pieces of meat and not low quality slaughterhouse waste, known as "4D Meat" or "Downer Meat" (just awful!!!).

What's the next most important thing?

Filler: Corn and wheat (not the kind we eat) are used as filler products and make up a large percentage of the ingredients in many commercial brands of dog food. They provide bulk with hardly any useful nutrients for your dog and are also quite difficult for them to digest.

The brands that utilize fillers as their main ingredient will certainly be a lot cheaper than the higher quality dog foods, but your dog won't get sufficient amounts of the nutrients needed in its daily diet, and that could eventually show up as serious behavioral or health problems.

It could ultimately cost you a lot more, in the long run, because you'll end up with either high dog behaviorist fees or high veterinary bills, or both...so please beware of filler!

What's next?

Variety: Alternating between brands is crucial to your pet's health! (this applies to any and all commercial or homemade diets and recipes!) Do not get in the habit of feeding just one or two dry foods or mixtures of ingredients all the time, day in and day out.

Dog nutrition experts advise dog owners to purchase, or preferably prepare, several different types of high quality foods. They suggest you alternate the foods, giving each one of them to your dog for a given period of time (say for one to three months), so that if one lacks in certain nutrients, the other may make up for it.

If you feed only dry food, you should also consider occasionally feeding wet food to your dog. It's usually much higher in protein than dry food and doesn't contain as much filler. Try mixing some wet food in with the dry food but, be careful not to leave it sit too long because there's a risk of bacteria contamination.

Alternating foods can have valuable health benefits and your dog will probably thank you for it...they love the smell and flavor of wet foods. Just be sure not to overdo it as too much protein can be harmful to dogs...just like "too much of a good thing" can be bad for us!

If you do alternate different foods, be sure keep an eye on your dog's coat, energy level, eating habits, stool, etc. If there are any noticeable changes, it might indicate an allergic reaction to the new food, or it could mean that the food doesn't contain enough protein for your dog's needs.

Every dog has it's own unique energy level and each also gets varying amounts of exercise each day. A good rule of thumb is that the more exercise your dog gets, the more protein it needs to be fit and healthy.

You get what you pay for...

Price: The quality of any dog food is reflected directly in the price you pay. Remember, like everything else in life, you get what you pay for!

Stay away from brands of dog food that are sold exclusively by groomers, veterinarians or pet stores. They tend to be grossly overpriced and the quality can vary greatly because they're manufactured by small companies that do not have the resources to monitor the quality of their ingredients. Lots of harmful things can "slip through the cracks".

They also make hugely exaggerated claims about the ability of their products to cure or prevent every conceivable disease known to dog. They're just not worth the money...there are better and less expensive alternatives to choose from.

If you prefer to feed your dog a commercial dog food, stick with products that meet high nutritional standards and are produced by large companies that you know and can trust. This suggestion does not apply to the special diet dog foods needed to manage specific diseases and sold by veterinarians. Just make sure you know exactly what's in those special diet foods, the same as you would any store bought dog food.

Should I Read Labels?

Labels: The first three ingredients on the label are the most important! A number of experts have offered tips on what to look for on the label of any dog food you consider purchasing when feeding a dog.

The three initial ingredients (the ones listed first) need to be some form of protein, containing one word each like, chicken, turkey or beef (and not "protein by-products" or other plural names!). High protein content is considered to be the most essential ingredient in a healthy dog food product. Again, don't go by just percentages alone, they can be very deceiving!

Those experts also say that you must never purchase dog food that doesn't clearly display the manufacturer's name on the packaging, along with contact information, such as website address and phone number. There should always be a way to contact someone in case anything goes wrong...if not, pass!

Some commercial dog food brands are usually safe for feeding a dog and can offer decent nutritional value, but you need to stay on top of things to make certain your dog is consuming a healthy product. Study labels to ensure the ingredients in any brand you choose are high quality, this will help you avoid any health or behavioral issues. You also need to watch for any recalls, which do happen occasionally.

Also, keep an eye on your dog to make sure the food you're feeding a dog agrees with it and is providing health benefits for it's overall wellness.

What About Homemade Dog Food?

Cooking For Dogs: Homemade diets can be a wonderful choice for feeding a dog, especially after the latest commercial pet foods scare. When you're home-cooking your dog's food you can control the quality of the ingredients that go into each meal, and completely eliminate all of those harmful commercial food additives, colorings and preservatives.

If you think you may want to prepare homemade food for your dog please come back soon and read our forthcoming article on homemade dog food (or visit our website). We will offer loads of information on what's involved in feeding a dog nutritious home cooked food plus some great recipes that are easy to make and will delight your dog.

*Remember to have fresh water available for your dog, at all times! This is especially critical during the summer months when it's hot and your dog can become dehydrated.

Important Notice! Although we are long time dog enthusiasts and dog advocates, we are not veterinarians or professional animal nutritionists. Our purpose is strictly to provide you with information, so that you can make your own decisions. Any and all of the information contained or stated in this article is provided for general information purposes. The information provided is not direct veterinary advice for your dog and should not be construed as such nor substituted for a consultation with a veterinarian or dog nutrition professional. Every dog and situation is different. If you have any concerns about your dog's health, please contact your veterinarian's office immediately. We all love our dogs and want only the very best for them! "In Dogs We Trust"

Anita Boyd has been a "dog person" her entire life and just recently learned that she's been feeding toxic ingredients to her dogs over many years through a commercial dog food that she trusted would nourish them. One of her dogs suffered from severe bladder issues and died at a very early age and the others died far too soon from cancer.

Now that she's learned the awful truth about what's really in some commercial dog foods, she feels compelled to expose the blatant lies that are being perpetuated by pet food companies. She's decided to publicize everything she now knows or will still learn about the disgusting, toxic ingredients we're unknowingly feeding to our trusting dogs.

Here in these articles, on the Dogliciousblogs and Website: http://feedingadog.yolasite.com you'll be provided with some extremely important and highly detailed information related to this subject. She hopes you'll visit her Website: http://www.feedingadog.yolasite.com and Dogliciousblogs. And, please come back here often to read new and informative articles, all about feeding a dog.

"In Dogs We Trust"!

What makes ferrets fascinating? What makes them popular among pet owners? What's so unique about them? Here are some facts that make ferrets stand out among the rest.

Personality Having a bad day? Your ferrets can change that. Their different personalities can make you smile despite the frowns. If you have four ferrets, expect that you'll have five different personalities. Paint them in different colors and you would still be able to distinguish which is who. They are playful and loving- so playful that they need to be caged when you're not around or whenever they are unsupervised. When playing, watch out for toys that may cause them harm.

Warm or Cold? Would you put a coat on when it's warm? I didn't think so. This is why ferrets love to be in cool places. A warm environment can cause an irritated skin, a dry coat, and dehydrate easily. They're happier in cooler temperatures! What's the ideal temp? 70 degrees Fahrenheit would do just fine. Don't let it go above 78 degrees Fahrenheit because they would not be able to stand the heat anymore. This could cause a heatstroke which can be proved to be fatal if not treated properly.

Circle of Friends Who is a ferret's favorite playmate? You, of course! Ferrets prefer to play with humans compared to other pets. However, this doesn't mean that they cannot co-exist with other pets. Ferrets can interact with dogs and cats. But during their first few introductions, always be there to supervise. Observe any personality clashes or wars being waged against each other. Most of the time, everything goes well. Some play with one another, some will simply co-exist and ignore each other. Either way, it's fun watching them interact with other pets. 3 It is not recommended, though, for ferrets to be acquainted with "birds, rodents (hamsters, gerbils and guinea pigs) or reptiles."

Sleeping When they hit the sack, they literally sleep longer than the human's average sleeping hours. How long, you ask? They sleep an average of 18-20 hours per day and they are not nocturnal beings. What if you want to play with them? No worries here. They can and will "adjust their schedule to you and be eager to play when you are." 5 When they awaken from their long slumber, it might take a few moments to adjust before they go hyperactive all over again.

When Kits Come Excited to have your own baby ferrets? It is good to know that ferrets "are able to breed when they are only 5-6 month old. In the US, most owners prefer to have their pets neutered." Gestation lasts for " weeks and mother ferrets have between 6-12 babies at a time. "

Seth Evans is ferret enthusiast, if you would like more great information on Ferret Facts please visit http://www.ferrets-as-pets.com/

If you're a dog owner and have a "world class" barker in the house, you may already know the stress of shattered quiet or dealing with unhappy neighbors.

Dogs always bark for a reason. Studies have even shown that different barks express different emotions (though a few breeds, like the poodle and the American Staffordshire Terrier, appear limited in their vocal repertory). The more high-pitched, atonal and repetitive the bark, the more indicative it is of a dog under stress.

A recent study of 84 dogs from nine breeds, including Poodles, Weimaraners, American Staffordshire Terriers, German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Bull Terriers and Muensterlaenders, recorded as many as a dozen variations of some types of barking among the dogs. Subtle variations even corresponded to "dialects" which were used by the dogs in identical situations at different times.

Although there is no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, males tend to bark less once neutered because they're less territorial. There's also a breed difference in barkers; Many Beagles, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more - not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred.

Virtually all canine behavioral experts agree that the key to solving the problem of excessive barking is to understand what's causing it. To solve problem barking, you'll need some patience and understanding, but teaching your barker a couple of very basic obedience commands will help a lot, too.

Oddly enough, teaching your dog to bark on command is a good way to teach them also how to stop. By learning when barking is desirable, they also learn what your word is for when to stop.

What doesn't work:

- Shouting "No" louder than the dog only makes things worse since the dog perceives this as YOU barking, too. It's not a long term solution;

- Hugging or talking soothingly to the dog when barking is a "no no" because the dog comes to believe that there IS something of which to be concerned. Coddling simply reinforces barking.

- Striking the dog doesn't address the cause of your dog's barking. If your dog is barking out of anxiety, hitting her only adds betrayal to the list of what worries her since she looks to you for guidance, not pain.

- Throwing items AT the dog. This is a good way to ruin a show dog and also introduces another reason for the dog to bark. Throwing can-filled pennies is a method of distraction, but it needs to be done correctly. Keep reading.

- Crating or confining the dog to a small space for hours and hours. This alone can cause barking.

The leading causes of barking?

Territorial/Protective Behavior

Startled or Fear Barking

Attention-Seeking or boredom

Self-identification

Play/Excitement

Loneliness or Separation Anxiety

Let's explore the cause and remedies for barking a bit more fully.

Separation or Loneliness Anxiety: This is probably the leading cause of excessive barking; It can also be the most difficult to determine since it typically occurs when a dog's owner is gone. Unless the owner receives a complaint, they many never know they have a problem barker. Complicating the matter is trying to determine when barking IS excessive. Some neighbors have a hair trigger when it comes to barking and even a few normal "woofs" is enough to generate a complaint. Be suspicious of your dog if s/he displays behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, greeting you frantically, or overreacting anxiously whenever you prepare to leave.

Anxiety barking becomes self-reinforcing as a dog becomes more stimulated and anxious. The more anxious the dog, the higher in pitch the bark. These barks are especially audible to neighbors.

Separation anxiety barking can be remedied with counter-conditioning, desensitization and teaching the dog how to relax. Commanding the dog to "lie down," for instance, is handy because reclining dogs don't bark as vigorously when lying down.

The best way to desensitize a dog to your leaving is to run frequent "drills." Start out by pretending to leave the house by changing your habits. Most of us have predictable patterns of behavior before leaving the house and this contributes to the dog becoming anxious. If, for example, the last thing you do before leaving the house is to pick up car keys, DON'T pick up the car keys last, put your shoes on last instead - and then don't leave. Go to the couch and read a book; Pick up the phone and pretend to talk. If you play music but only on weekends when you are home, turn it on during your workdays. As hard as it may be, set your alarm on weekends, get up, but stay home. Continue changes in routine until your dog pays no attention to your cues anymore. It is also very important to not give your dog a lot of attention when you leave.

Work your way up to actually leaving the dog for a very short time, say, a minute or two. Before the dog starts getting nervous and barking, come back into the house. You're not rewarding barking, you're rewarding relaxation and silence. Gradually extend the time you're gone, and return before the dog gets anxious. If your dog is anxious even if you leave the room, then you will need to start by just taking several steps away from her while she remains relaxed. You cannot go too slowly during this process - but you can go too fast.

If you suspect your dog is lonely, hire a pet sitter or dog walker, or look into a "doggie day care center or play group," increasingly attractive and practical options that's a "win win" for all involved. You can expect to pay up to $25 a day, but it's far cheaper than fines or constant complaints from the neighbors. To find a doggie day care center or "play group" for your dog, consult your veterinarian, local training facility or check out the phone book. High end pet shops also typically know who in the area offers pet sitting or play group options and often carrying their business cards.

Always remember that your dog is NOT punishing you, nor is he enjoying himself when he's barking because he's lonely or anxious. Think about how you feel when you're truly overwrought about something and you'll get an idea of how your dog feels. Be patient and understanding as you help your dog work through this - and keep communication open with disgruntled neighbors to show that you ARE working on the situation. Dog pounds are filled with confused and bewildered dogs who've been dumped there because their owners were either forced to give them up because of barking, or because they failed to work with the dog's problem.

Barking for Attention Seeking or boredom: Dogs of any age quickly learn that humans pay attention to their barking. It doesn't matter if we're furious with them or that we've just shouted "NO!" Negative attention is still attention and reinforces barking. Hard as it may be, it's best to ignore this type of barking which can be like a persistent yap that turns into a howl. Sometimes, the use of a remote correction is helpful in controlling this type of barking: Coins in an empty soda can be tossed away from the dog which will distract him from barking. Timing is important and at this point, give the dog a substitute for barking such as a treat, a toy or a walk. Just make sure she stops barking before you give the substitute or the dog will perceive it as a reward for barking.

If the dog is left alone a lot, has little chance to interact with you, has an environment devoid of companions or toys, or is a dog under three years old, the dog is probably barking out of boredom. Increase the dog's "people time" by taking walks, playing fetch or Frisbee®, teaching a few commands, attending an agility class, and providing safe, interesting toys to keep the dog busy. Kong®-type toys filled with peanut butter or broken up dog biscuits... busy-box toys... Treat Dispensing Balls, these are excellent choice. Rotating the toys will make them seem new and interesting, and hiding different toys around the dog's environment also helps.

Self-identification barkers can be difficult to control, especially in a household of multiple dogs and PARTICULARLY if the dogs are kept outside. There's usually an instigator dog and other dogs tend to join in. This is the barking your dog does when s/he hears other dogs barking. It can be controlled by using obedience and relaxation methods, and by offering substitute behavior like playing with a toy. If the sound of other dogs barking gets your dog to start, you can teach her how to respond appropriately by visiting web sites where you can select various dog barks for your dog to hear. Just do a Google search on "dog barking audio." When your dog hears the computer barking and he starts barking, use the opportunity to teach your dog how to respond to by saying, "Enough." The very second your dog stops - if only to draw breath for the next bark - pop a treat in his mouth and gush, "Good boy!" Repeat. Do this daily and be sure to do it outside under "real" circumstances, as well.

Territorial Alert and Warning barks are used to warn off intruders, be they man or beast. These warning barks are low in pitch, can be combined with growls - and if you've even heard your dog make this sound, you know that it's unlike any other sound your dog makes. Most of us appreciate this canine "early warning system" and think it's appropriate to reward with a "What is it, girl?" or "What do you hear, fella?"

If and when no intruder appears, give the dog the command, "Enough" to show that you believe the alarm has passed and that it's okay to stop vocalizing. If the dog doesn't stop this menacing sound, however, believe the dog.

Territorial barks become problematic when leveled at joggers, delivery people or kids on bicycles and can happen during walks or from the dog's own backyard. The dog's barking is reinforced by the fact that these people eventually leave, and now the dog thinks HE made the intruders go away with his barking. To stop this kind of barking, you need to teach the dog to respond to a command or signal to stop.There are a couple of ways to do this:

One way is to start by making a noise to distract the dog from barking. AS SOON as the dog stops, say, "enough" and immediately reward the dog either with praise or a treat. Don't give the reward until the barking stops or the dog will think that it is being rewarded for barking, not for stopping the barking.

Another approach is this one: When your dog begins to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say "enough" and interrupt the barking by squirting water into her mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun. The surprise should cause her to stop barking, if only for a moment. In that moment, and while she's quiet, say "Good Dog!" in a happy voice and pop a treat into her mouth. The squirt isn't meant to punish her but to surprise her into quieting so you can reward her.

Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game whether it's with you or another dog. When the barking is excessive, it's best to stop the play, let the dog(s) calm down, and only allow play to resume when the barking stops. if it starts up again, repeat the process. If it STILL continues, it's time for a substitute activity.In time the dog(s) will learn to play with their "inside" voice.

Startled or Fear barking happens when the dog is faced with an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement - like a car pulling into the driveway, or thunder. Your dog's posture indicates fear: ears back, tail held low...and his barks are short and crisp. This type of barking responds well to desensitivity training. In essence, you expose the dog to the sounds that consistently startle him. Start by recording the sound, like thunder, fire crackers, motorcycles,etc, or buy a recording of the sound. Play the sound to the dog very softly so that your dog will stay relaxed when hearing it. If she remains quiet, then reward her. Over days and weeks, gradually increase the volume until she is no longer startled into barking when she hears it.

Ultimately, if nothing works to solve your dog's excessive barking behavior, you just may have a pathologic barker - a dog who barks in an obsessive-compulsive manner over inappropriate things (a leaf falling) or becomes hyper-excited and aggressive with the approach of people or other dogs. These dogs need more serious behavior modification and a team-approach is highly recommended.

The team can be family members, dog friends, or anyone who is willing to work with the dog as long as they know to use the same commands in the same way as all the other team members. The services of a behavior modification expert can be highly useful in this scenario, as can a veterinarian who might recommend medication during the early going. We view medication as a last resort, but if faced with neighbors who are threatening to take you to court, your options are few.

Speaking of options, there are other remedies for barking and we'd be remiss in not mentioning them, though we believe they don't attack the root of problem barking: the cause. These options include bark collars and de-barking.

Bark collars work by producing a response to barking that the dog notices and presumably doesn't like. Be aware, however, that for some hard core barkers, they would rather bark and be punished than not bark at all.

Citronella collars spray citrus scent or mist around the dog's muzzle when the dog barks. Some collars make a sound before spraying as an additional deterrent. In theory, dogs aren't supposed to like this smell, but we've heard of dogs who quite liked it. One positive aspect to a citrus collar is that it can alert you to the fact that your dog was barking while you were gone since the citrus smell still lingers in the air;

Sonic/ultrasonic/vibration collars produce an allegedly inaudible note that over times, becomes annoying enough to the dog to deter barking.

Electrical shock collars sting or shock the dog when the dog barks. We don't like them. Not only do we prefer positive reinforcement, but we also find that shock collars don't distinguish between normal barking and problematic barking. Ultimately, the collar punishes the dog for being a dog. We also don't like the fact that not all collars have a failsafe mechanism that shuts off after a certain time to prevent ongoing operation. Imagine if the dog get out of the yard or is lost and is stuck in the collar until the battery dies.

Combination collars use both sound and spray together, while escalation collars use low levels of output that increase gradually until the barking stops. Escalation devices are a bit more "sporting" in that they "reward" the dog for stopping sooner and give the dog a chance to learn by inhibiting barking before a greater response is dispensed.

Debarking (which is illegal in the UK) is intended to lower the volume of a dog's bark by surgically reducing tissue in the dog's vocal chords. Some vets use a punch to remove tissue, others make cuts, while still others use a laser. The dog can still bark but sounds "hoarse.' In some dogs, scar tissue can form and the dog will bark louder than when first debarked. This is a hotly debated topic in some circles, particularly in light of a move around the country by animal rights groups to outlaw debarking. Some people find the sound of a debarked dog more annoying than an actual bark, others find it to be their only option when faced with a pathological barker, neighbors threatening civil action and animal control breathing down their neck.

We don't always get perfect dogs, but I haven't met one yet who wasn't worth the effort, time and patience.

S.E.Szeremy is a writer and creator of KnobNots.com [http://knobnots.com/] (the Friendly Alternative to Beware of Pet) and BabyKnobNots.com [http://www.babyknobnots.com/] (Keep the Peace So Baby Can Sleep). She's been an owner/handler/breeder of Pulik since 1978.

There seems to be an alarming trend to have cats declawed...whether it's due to personal convenience, apartment house rules and regulations, or simple lack of knowledge on the part of responsible pet owners.

There are many fine vets out there that actively discourage declawing, but there are also many who perform this surgery on a regular basis while never completely informing the pet owner what this really entails nor explaining the possible dangers of the procedure.

If people were more informed, perhaps this trend would reverse itself.

Declawing a cat is a major surgical procedure, performed under general anesthesia. It is actually amputation of the last joint on each toe, not a simple removal of the claw itself as many are led to believe. The following article explains the procedure of declawing.

Cats walk on their toes, unlike most mammals who walk on the soles of their feet. Their musculature, joints, tendons and ligaments are all designed to distribute their body weight to their toes.

The claw is not a nail like human fingernails or toenails. It is actually a part of the last bone in a cat's toe. If you were to "declaw" a human in the same way a cat is declawed, you would be amputating all 10 fingers at the last joint!

I found this description of the surgery in a veterinary textbook: "The claw is extended by pushing up under the footpad or by grasping it with Allis tissue forceps. A scalpel blade is used to sharply dissect between the second and third phalanx over the top of the ungual crest . The distal interphalangeal joint is disarticulated (disjointed), and the deep digital flexor tendon is incised (severed). The digital footpad is not incised." This clinical explanation sounds horrific, doesn't it?

There is a real possibility of complications after any major surgery, and declawing is no exception. There is the possibility of hemorrhage, infection, extreme pain, bone chips, possible regrowth of deformed claw, back, muscle and joint problems, damage to nerves, abscess and possible lameness. If the claw does regrow, it is often deformed and yet another surgery must be performed to correct this problem.

In addition to the possible physical complications, often there are behavioral problems following this surgery. The cat can become withdrawn, distant, fearful and/or aggressive, and often start biting, as this is the only means of defense left to them. Occasionally the cat will stop using the litterbox, because immediately after surgery it was painful to scratch in the litter box, and now they associate that pain with the litter box. Because of the amount of stress the animal experiences after this procedure, they may become more prone to other diseases, as stress tends to compromise the immune system.

The animal is in extreme pain following the surgery, and rarely do veterinarians offer any sort of pain medication for the cat.

There are alternatives to having your cat declawed...such as claw covers, scratching posts, regular trimming of the claws and behavior modification.

Many countries have banned declawing as an abusive practice which causes unnecessary pain and trauma to the animal. A veterinary textbook by Turner and Bateson on the biology of cat behavior concludes a short section on scratching behavior with the following statement: "The operative removal of the claws, as is sometimes practiced to protect furniture and curtains, is an act of abuse and should be forbidden by law in all, not just a few countries."

Unfortunately, declawing is not banned in the United States at this time. The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) says it is their policy to "recommend considering such surgery only if concerted behavior modification efforts have failed and euthanasia is pending."

Declawing a cat is an abusive practice. Being informed of a procedure and possible complications should be the goal of every responsible pet owner.

Cait Isaacs

[http://www.furrkids.net]

Hamsters are often considered to be ideal first pets for children. This is because their small size can seem less intimidating to children than larger pets like dogs. Syrian hamsters, the largest of the pet breeds, are used as class pets in some schools because they tolerate handling fairly well and are relatively easy to care for.

The smaller breeds of pet hamsters (like Campbell's dwarf, winter white Russian dwarf and Roborovski) are not recommended as pets for young children for several reasons. Because they are so small, they are more timid, nervous and active than the larger Syrian hamsters. So they are harder to handle and more likely to fall or jump out of a child's hand and get injured. Even worse, they are very fast, so if they escape, they can be attacked by a larger pet (like a cat or dog), be stepped on or get lost in the house and start gnawing on furniture or electrical wiring (which is dangerous for them and for everyone else in the family).

Dwarf hamsters have such small and delicate bones that they can be easily broken or fractured if handled too roughly, or if they fall from heights more than a few inches. And if they are held too tightly, their bones can break, and nerves and internal organs can be damaged. Young children under the age of about 5 years do not have fully developed fine motor skills or reflexes, so they do not have good control of how hard they squeeze or the ability to quickly catch a falling object. So hamster experts advise against letting young children handle the small dwarf hamster breeds without adult supervision.

When a hamster is introduced into the home as a pet, it is important for the parents to teach the children about its proper care and handling. Children need to be taught to relate to the hamster as a living creature with needs and feelings. Children often want to pet and handle the hamster long beyond the point where the hamster is comfortable. So the parents should supervise their children's interaction with the hamster for a few weeks, to teach the children how to handle the hamster safely and to make sure they do not stress the hamster to the point where it starts to bite.

If the kids are supposed to be in charge of feeding the pet and maintaining its cage, parents need to ensure that this is being done on a regular basis. If the children are not holding up their end of the chores, parents need to step in and make sure that the pet is cared for. Sometimes children are still too young for this kind of responsibility, so parents need to be prepared to care for the pet until the kids are old enough to be consistent and reliable with their chores.

Emily Brock is a hamster enthusiast. For more great tips and advice on how to buy a hamster visit http://hamsterlifeanswers.com