Posts Tagged ‘crate’

When it comes to kennel (or crate) training, some dog owners have tried and given up, others think it's cruel, and yet others just haven't given the idea any thought. But crate training is a very practical tool and, when used correctly, is one of the best ways to promote emotionally healthy dogs. Here's what you need to know to have a happier, healthier pet for the whole family.

Let's start with examining the natural instincts of canines. Unlike humans, who drool over soaring, vaulted ceilings and thousands of square footage, canines prefer their homes to be small, cozy dens. It provides protection from predators and warmth in winter months. In fact, a den is crucial for a dog's survival in the wild. A dog that sleeps out in the open becomes easy prey and all dog's know this--that's why they instinctually long for a den. When inside the crate, dogs spend most of the time sleeping. This isn't because they are bored, but because dogs need about 13 hours of sleep per day to function properly. They will be content to get most of that sleep done in their kennel, looking forward to play time when the family returns home. So remember: even though humans deplore the idea of being kept in a cage-like enclosure, dogs will always prefer them.

In every class I teach, most people go home fully intent on crate training but usually give up within the first two or three days. Why? Because their puppy is whining and crying and scratching at the kennel door all night long and they desperately want some sleep. As a result, they toss this wonderful training tool out the window. I find it fascinating that the same people who have the endurance to get through months and months with a newborn baby cannot get through one week of crate training. And that's really all it takes. Within one week, your puppy should be completely acclimated to its kennel. Even though the puppy's instincts long for a den, we still have to understand that this particular den is foreign to them. When the puppy was born, it was born inside its mother's den. That is the den they have come to know and love. So when we take a dog from its mother's den and introduce it to a new one, there has to be a transition period. There are several ways to make this transition period as quick and painless as possible:

1) When you purchase your puppy, bring him home in the morning and plan to spend all day with him. This will give him the most amount of time to get used to his surroundings before going into his kennel at night. Never bring a new puppy home in the evening. He won't have time to get to know you and will be extremely lonely, scared, and will cry for his mother (quite possibly all night long).

2) Some puppies will act depressed on the first day away from their mother and siblings, while others seem to fit in with their new family immediately. Either way, you must begin crate training on the day you bring your puppy home. Start by giving him his meals inside the kennel. Place his bowl of food on the far side, opposite of the door. You may have to coax him into the kennel, but once he's inside, praise him and love on him. Repeat the coaxing and praising until he feels comfortable going inside the kennel. When coaxing him, give the kennel command of your choice, "Go kennel," or "Go to your room," or "Kennel up." Once he is kennel trained, all you'll have to do is point to the kennel and give the command and he should go right in, eliminating the need to chase him down when you're already late for work.

3) When you have a play session, try tossing the puppy's toy into the kennel a few, random times to get him used to the kennel as a fun place to be. Also, if you've started obedience training, toss the puppy's reward treat into his kennel when he does something good. He'll begin to attach praise and good behavior with his kennel.

4) Never use the kennel as punishment. The kennel should always be a place of comfort and safety. If you need to remove your dog from the rest of the pack (your family), pick a small room like the laundry room or a spare bathroom. It's okay for the dog to associate discipline with one of these rooms, but never his kennel.

5) When first starting out, always keep the kennel in the same room as you. If you're in the kitchen most of the day, bring the kennel in there. If your whole family is in the living room enjoying a movie, bring the kennel in there. Soon, your dog will begin to prefer hanging out in his kennel rather than the floor or the couch. My dog spends most of his nap time in his kennel. When he's ready to sleep, he trots back to his kennel, opens the door himself, climbs inside and snoozes until I call him. Everyone thinks he's strange for doing so, but really, he's just doing what his instincts tell him.

6) Always implement tough love. If your dog whines, cries, or scratches, it's not because he is deathly afraid or will die if you leave him in his kennel over night. He whines because he knows you will come to his rescue and let him out. Never release your dog from his kennel unless he is perfectly quiet. This will teach him that whining and crying get him nowhere, resulting in quiet nights for you and your family. If you succumb to the whining and let your dog out, this only shows him that he is actually the teacher--and he's just taught you to open the crate when he whines! Remember, the alpha dog (that would be you) never takes orders from the other pack members. By following your dog's orders, you will ultimately have a confused and unruly dog on your hands--he'll be the boss of some things, but not of others, and this confusion will last his entire life as he struggles to find a balance. It's crucial that you remain the alpha for the duration of your dog's life. Then he will know his place and feel comfortable and happy to romp around within his understood boundaries.

7) With puppies, try putting a hot water bottle under the blankets inside the kennel. This helps to mimic the warmth of the litter that your puppy is used to. A cold puppy is a lonely puppy. Warmth helps him fall asleep feeling safe. Try adding a few stuffed animals around him too. This will also help mimic the litter. You need not do this if you are adopting an older dog, as they should be used to sleeping away from the litter. Also, for the first few nights, keep the kennel right next to your bed so the puppy doesn't feel completely isolated. I usually set the kennel on a table so it is the same level as my bed--this way, the dog can see me and feel as though he is sleeping with his pack. After the first week, I move the kennel to the floor beside the bed. Then, gradually, I begin to move the kennel away from the bed until it is in the spot where it will remain most nights.

One of the most important rules of crate training is to never give up! Even if you've tried everything and your dog is still scared of the kennel or still whines, keep trying. If you do, here are some of the benefits you'll receive:

Peace of mind. You'll always know your dog is safe when he is in his kennel. A dog that is free to roam about the house will ultimately get into something at some point. Our homes are not akin to the wild; they are, at times, more dangerous and provide a myriad of ways your dog can harm himself. He could turn over a trash can and scarf down chicken bones or greasy paper towels, resulting in more trips to the vet (and a huge mess to clean when you get home). He may find your shoes irresistible and end up ruining several pairs or swallowing shoe laces. He may even urinate or throw up on one of your favorite rugs. I've known dogs to rip up throw pillows and even scratch holes in doors and window screens. But when confined to a kennel, a dog will spend most of his time sleeping soundly in a perfectly safe environment.

Structure. Crate training provides structured sleep patterns. For those of you who have children, you know the benefits of scheduled sleep. Your dog needs at least 13 hours of sleep every day to function the way nature intended. Structured sleep may result in fewer trips to the vet and a longer life for your pet.

Balance. If you provide safety and structure for your pet, you are demonstrating good alpha leadership. Your dog will never need to wonder who his master is and he will have a balanced conscience. Think of the most well-behaved dog you know. He didn't become that way on his own, no matter what breed he is. Now think of his owner. When the dog is with his owner, have you ever noticed a kind of "harmony" between them? If so, this is because the owner simply demonstrates proper alpha leadership by providing balance. The dog always knows his place and never has to try his owner's patience or test him. He simply knows he can't get away with bad behavior so he just doesn't attempt it. For example: I bring my dog to work with me. He has a kennel at the office and I will make sure that he gets several hours of nap time in his kennel each day, even though I'm right beside him. I notice huge changes in his behavior if I forget and leave him out in the office all day without nap time inside the kennel. He becomes testy and disobedient! Yet when I make sure to keep his daily routine of kennel time, he is the most obedient and satisfied pooch around. It's such a small act, but it goes a long way.

Savings. A healthy dog is an inexpensive dog. Yes, some dogs are born with conditions that require more vet bills than others, but keeping your dog away from household dangers will keep money in the bank.

Faster house-breaking. Dogs that are crate trained are generally house-broken faster than those that are not. This is because the crate mimics den life. In the mother's den, as she is potty-training her pups, she never allows them to soil their living quarters. She nudges them outside the den several times per day so they can urinate. Dogs only soil their crates when they are very young and do not yet have proper control, if they are ill, or if they are kept in the crate far too long. Other than that, they always prefer to urinate outside. If you get into the routine of taking your pet outside right before and directly after they are in their kennel, you'll have fewer accidents, fewer messes to clean, and a faster house-breaking. Fact: dogs that are left outside the crate have eliminated somewhere in the house. And because his owners weren't there to supervise, that spot will ultimately go unnoticed. The problem is, the dog will continue to soil in the same spot year after year because they will keep trying to cover the scent resulting in a house that reeks of ammonia. Do yourself a favor and crate train. You will be able to supervise your dog's elimination. And if your dog soils his crate, it's very simple to clean. Simply wash the bedding and wipe out the removable tray in the kennel. You might have to give your puppy a bath afterwards as well.

Relaxing travel. A dog that is crate trained is a lovely traveling companion. Inside his crate, he will feel safe and will sometimes even sleep during the entire journey. This way, you won't have a dog climbing onto your lap while you're driving and he won't be tempted to chew on the upholstery. Also, most hotels will welcome dogs if they are crate trained, saving you high-priced boarding costs.

Lastly, here are some guidelines to follow when crate training:

- Crates come in all different shapes and sizes. Ask your breeder, vet, or someone at your local pet store what size is appropriate for your breed. A good rule of thumb is that the crate should be big enough that your dog (when fully grown) can stand up and turn around. It shouldn't be so big that your dog can romp or play inside. Crates usually cost anywhere from 30 to 150 dollars. But this one-time cost is nothing compared to what you might spend on damage caused by a dog that is not crate trained.

- Always keep fresh water in the crate. A hamster or rabbit bottle works much better than an open bowl that can be turned over.

- Only keep safe toys inside the crate. If your dog likes to tear apart stuffed animals, do not leave a stuffed animal inside the crate. This may be a choking hazard. Most dogs simply sleep inside their kennels and they do not play, so toys are not necessary.

- Keep the bottom of the crate lined with a towel, pad, or thin blanket. This will help cushion their elbows, keep them warm, and help to soak up accidents, making it easier to clean.

- Always take your dog outside and make sure he urinates before going into the kennel. Then, when it is time to release the dog, take him directly outside again. Never dawdle once the dog has been released, as this could result in an accident on the floor while you're searching for your shoes.

- Never feed your dog right before he goes into the kennel. A good rule to follow is that your dog's feeding time should be right after your family finishes supper. This way, the dog mimics the pack and eats right after they do and then has the rest of the evening to digest. He should be able to eliminate that same evening right before he goes into the kennel for the night.

- A dog should never spend more than 6 hours a day in his crate, except overnight. I believe that if a family must spend over 8 hours a day away from home, only to see their dog for a few hours every evening, they should not be dog owners. Dogs are pack animals and no matter what we do, they will always be pack animals, craving constant companionship. To separate them from pack life and expect them to thrive happily alone for so many hours a day is far more cruel than the method of crate training. If you must own a dog, regardless of this fact, consider owning two or three. At least the dogs will not be alone for most of their lives. A dog left isolated from its pack will demonstrate some or all of the following behaviors: nervousness, shaking, cowardice, loss of hair, chewing on its paws until they are raw, anxiety, disobedience, loss of bladder and bowel control, dehydration, exhaustion from barking all day long, and vomiting. If you have two or three dogs, you may see the same benefits of crate training by simply confining your pets to their own room during the day. A laundry room or spare bathroom works great. Provide food and water, comfy dog beds, and some newspaper on the floor incase of accidents. Make sure there are no hazards in the room like trash cans, and keep items like laundry detergent, dryer sheets, and cleaning products somewhere safe.

- After a few years, your dog should be able to "graduate" from over night crate training. Mine is two and a half years old, and he is just now able to sleep outside of the crate in our bedroom. You will know your dog is ready when he is successfully house-broken and shows independence in his sleeping locations. As dogs get older, they are more sensitive to temperature and may switch from sleeping on a warm fleece to sleeping on a cool, wooden floor several times during the night. Maintaining a satisfying temperature for your dog is difficult inside the crate. When this is apparent, allow your dog to sleep outside of the kennel, but close the door to your bedroom so he cannot roam about the entire house. Give him a special bed to lay on beside your bed and remember to take him outside the first thing in the morning. Continue to crate train when you leave the house.

- I have known a few dogs to "graduate" from daytime crate training as well. These are usually guard dogs, or ward dogs. There is a difference between a guard dog and what I call a "ward" dog. A guard dog is specifically trained to guard the house from intruders whereas a "ward" dog will ward off strangers by means of its large size and intimidating bark. Just because you have a German Shepherd doesn't mean he is a trained guard dog. I owned a German Shepherd that was afraid of squeaky toys--she would not have stopped a determined intruder. But she did have a very intimidating bark and may have warded off some skulking teenagers if necessary. A guard or ward dog in a crate does not do much good, so if you purposefully bought a guard or ward dog, he should graduate within two years. When your dog graduates from day time crate training, particular steps should be taken to make sure your home is free of dangerous objects. Just like you would "baby-proof" your house, you must "dog-proof" it too. But, this is only recommended for guard or ward dogs--not for common pets. I would still recommend encouraging your dog to nap in his kennel. Simply remove the kennel door. He can resort to his kennel for nap times whether you're home or away and still have the ability to leave the kennel if he hears a suspicious noise.

I hope I have convinced some of you to implement crate training with your pets. It is one of the most rewarding methods of training and you will benefit from it for years to come.

Mandy has been a dog trainer and family pet advisor for ten years. She is passionate about matching the right pets with the right families and has fostered countless animals in her lifetime. Currently she is a staff writer for Plugged In Parents, providing parents with family pet solutions and information. Plugged In Parents is also an online resource for up-to-date health and safety, nutrition, and baby info along with recipes, family movie reviews, money and tech tips, and more! Visit pluggedinparents.com today!

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Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by "Positive Reinforcement" and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.

To visit C. Anne's pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com

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When you have purchased a puppy, then you may be ready to train your dog to use a cage. Crate training Puppies has many advantages to trying it. Some people use their cage as a way to keep their dog safe and out of trouble while they are away.

If you head into a pet store to look for a cage for your pet, you could be overwhelmed, by a huge selection of crates. That is because these cages are available in lots of sizes. For the ideal size, you will have to determine how large your dog will become when it is full grown. You will find cages that are a small size, medium, large and extra large. Your dog should be able to stand up and move a little bit when it is at its full size to be a proper fit. Read the rest of this entry »