Posts Tagged ‘rabbit’

Some people love to have pets at home like dogs, cats, birds, fish and other animals. Others, especially kids love to consider rabbits for a pet. They can make wonderful pets but they also require a lot of special care.

If you want to have a rabbit for a pet, you should learn how to take good care of it. You should know what they eat, and you should provide for a good home or a rabbit hutch.

This pet can be placed indoor or outdoor. You can have your pet rabbit inside your house and let them roam around. But they are curious animals so building them a home outside may be a good idea. They love to dig and chew everything which could possibly put your rabbit and other belongings at risk. On the other hand, if you have your rabbits outside, you have to place your rabbit in a rabbit hutch. This can be a single story or double story with different designs that correspond with a rabbit hutch cover.

This is usually used for winter, not only to keep out from moisture but also to keep them warm. You have to remember that domestic rabbit is different from rabbits born in wild surroundings. Although they were placed on a rabbit hutch with cover, they don't do well in summer heat with extreme temperature. They might also suffer a heart attack or die of fear when they encounter some stray predators that will put their lives at risk. So even they were on the rabbit hutch with rabbit hutch cover, rabbits outdoor will not be guaranteed safety. But at least, the rabbit hutch will give them a little protection.

Rabbits love to eat nutritious food. It is possible to let your rabbit eat vegetables but it should be organic vegetables and not just any vegetable. Vegetables that are treated by chemicals or conventional-grown veggies can be toxic to rabbits. They should eat at least three (3) different vegetables each day. You can make it a vegetable salad if you want. The most favorite food of a rabbit are apples and bananas.

Besides for the nutritious food that you gave to your pet rabbit, you should give them plenty of water to drink. Why? Because insufficient water intake for the rabbit will give them a serious health problem like bladder stones. Drinking water for a rabbit can be put in a plastic bowl or in a sipper bottle. Some rabbits are used to drink their water from a bowl and it will take some time for them to get used to drink in a sipper bottle. Just be sure that you change the drinking water daily to give your rabbit a clean water to drink.

Consult your veterinarian on regular basis to make sure that your pet rabbit is surely healthy and in good condition.

Having a pet like a rabbit at home can be helpful. It could be a reliever for a stressful day. That is why it is important that you are knowledgeable on ways how to take care of them.

Davidd Warren enjoys writing for The Rabbit Hutch Shop which sells rabbit hutch cover and rabbit hutch as well as a host of additional products.

Some first-time rabbit owners, accustomed to thinking of rabbits as being more similar to a rat or gerbil than a dog or cat, are surprised to find out that rabbits are some of the most litter training-ready pets around. This is partly a function of their natural intelligence, which makes the receptive to training of all kinds, and also of their natural history. Feces and urine, of course, bear strong odors, and in the wild this is a major cue for predators who might fancy a rabbit for lunch. To better prevent detection by such predators, wild rabbits designate specific locations away from the nest as "bathrooms". This same instinct makes it a fairly simple matter to litter-train a house rabbit, requiring only a few litterboxes and some patience on the owner's part.

At the beginning of litter training, keep in mind that rabbits use their waste much the same as dogs do- to mark their territories and establish "ownership" of an area. When introduced to the unfamiliar environment of its new cage, your rabbit is likely to spread its droppings and urine over every available space. This is to be expected, and you should not make any effort to discourage this- the only effect punitive measures are likely to have is to make the rabbit less secure in its ownership of the cage, impelling it to continue its territory marking. For this same reason, you should try not to invade the cage space any more than necessary while the bunny is inside of it- try to save cleaning and other chores for when the rabbit is enjoying free time outside the cage. Similarly, you should avoid forcibly removing your rabbit from his cage, or physically placing him in it. Let it come and go at will, with some non-coercive "encouragement" if necessary.

Once the rabbit begins feeling secure in its new home, it should begin designating a certain spot as its preferred litter area. Once it has made up its mind, there's not much point in trying to convince it otherwise. Your best bet is to place its litterbox in the spot it has chosen. Including some hay, and perhaps a small treat, will encourage the rabbit to explore the litterbox and become accustomed to using it. If your rabbit chooses to use the litterbox as a play area or bed, don't worry- this isn't a problem. You'll want to clean the litterbox out frequently at first, since this will encourage the rabbit to reapply its "markings" to the box.

The rabbit should quickly begin to form a habit of using a litterbox. Rabbits, by nature, love routine, and it won't take long before using a litterbox begins to feel "normal". Now you can begin training him to use litterboxes outside the cage environment. This will require supervision, so set aside an hour or two for this activity. Set aside a small area for the rabbit to run free- too much space will be confusing. Place a litterbox or two in the corners of the area. Watch your rabbit as it explores, and be on the lookout for the tell-tale signs of a bunny about to pass waste. If it heads for a corner that doesn't have a litterbox, or lifts its tail as if about to pass, you need to interrupt the act with a sharp burst of sound- a shout of "NO!", or a loud clap. You want to get the rabbit either back into its cage, or over to a litterbox, without creating the impression that the litterbox is a place of punishment or confinement. Herd the rabbit with insistent noises, clapping, or other pressures without actually physically forcing it anywhere. Once it's in the box, reinforce the positive behavior with some hay or other treat.

Repeat this process daily, always using positive reinforcement, never punishment. It shouldn't take long for the rabbit to get the idea that using the litter box is a good way to get a treat, whereas urinating elsewhere brings an annoying human around. Once this becomes habitual, you shouldn't need to use any cues to induce the rabbit to use a litterbox. Persistent difficulties in litter training may be a sign of psychological or physical ailments in your rabbit, and you should talk to a vet or other expert.

Most owners don't ever have these kind of problems. Rabbits are one of the naturally cleanest pets available, and you will most likely find that litter training is a speedy, easy process. Good luck to you and your rabbit!

When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages for sale or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.

One of the most important aspects of properly caring for a pet rabbit is providing him with a healthy, satisfying, and well-balanced diet.

Fortunately, doing so is relatively easy, since there is general consensus about what is good for rabbits and a wide range of great food pellet options. Rabbits can also eat many of the fruits and veggies that you probably have on your dinner table every night (see below for recommendations and portions).

Pellets

Rabbit pellets, available at your local pet store, on the internet, or through mail-order, can be a backbone of your pet's diet. They provide many nutrients in a dense fashion, and they make your job as a feeder so easy. However, you don't need pellets to keep your rabbit healthy. Hay, veggies and the occasional treat of fruits can be an equally or even more effective diet. After all, rabbits in the wild subsist on hay, grass, and veggies ... why should domestic rabbits be any different? On the other hand, pellets are easy and widely available. The choice is really up to you.

If you do decide to feed your rabbit pellets, alfalfa pellets are recommended, as are the excellent rabbit pellets offered by Oxbow (Bunny Basics), Purina or Manna Pro. Feed your rabbit a small amount twice daily (morning and night).

Purchase in small bags if possible (not jumbo size) to ensure that they are as fresh as possible by the time your bunny actually gets to eat them. Pet rabbits are widely known as picky eaters who respond badly to sudden changes in diet, and they may balk if you try to feed them pellets that are spoiled or that have gone rancid or stale.

Veggies

Pellets are a great starting point, but they are only a portion of an overall balanced diet. Rabbits also love to consume vegetables, and many vets recommend giving pet bunnies a small amount of a variety of veggies each day.

Here are some veggies rabbits love:

Alfalfa sprouts

Basil

Brussels sprouts

Carrots

Celery

Clover

Green peppers

Mint

Parsley

Peppermint leaves

Radish tops

Wheat grass

While you may have seen bunnies crunching down on carrot sticks in the cartoons, it's important not to give only carrots or to overfeed too many carrots to your pet. Carrots contain vitamin A, and too much of it can cause problems. On the other hands, vitamin A is essential to good nutrition, so aim for one item that contains it per day. Besides carrots, some veggies that contain vitamin A are:

Beet tops

Broccoli

Endive

Romaine leaves

Dandelion greens

Be careful not to give your rabbit too many vegetables, as they are high in water content and can cause diarrhea or loose stools. If this happens, reduce or eliminate veggies from the diet.

Moreover, don't give your bunny rabbit so many veggies that he starts to eat them only and neglect his pellets. Veggies should be a supplement, not a main dietary staple.

Fruits

While you should give your rabbit more veggies than fruits, some fruits can be a nice treat for your pet. Only give him fresh fruit, never canned (which often has added sugar). Again, give only small amounts, as too much can cause watery stools.

Rabbits tend to like apples, bananas, kiwi, and strawberry. Papaya and pineapple are also great choices, as they both contain papain, which is an enzyme that helps to keep rabbit hairballs at bay.

Be Consistant!

Rabbits tend to be quite sensitive when it comes to changes in their diet or feeding schedule. In fact, if there is a sudden change or interruption, a rabbit may lose his appetite or become ill.

Therefore, it's important to maintain consistency. Establish a feeding routine that is easy for you to stick to each and every day. Set your timer and fix the feeding schedule into your own everyday routine. Make sure you have enough rabbit food (whether hay, pellets, veggies, etc.) on hand so that you don't run out unexpectedly.

Feeding your rabbit a consistent, balanced and healthy diet is one of the best ways to ensure that your pet rabbit has a long and happy life as your prized companion.

by Andrea Austin,

http://www.rabbits-n-bunnies.com

We hope you enjoyed this article. If you would like more information on pet rabbit care, click on this link to get your FREE Rabbit Care Guide: Bunny Rabbits

Not only are rabbits cute, they make excellent pets requiring minimal care once you know what you're doing. Bear in mind that rabbits can live anywhere from 5-10 years so make sure you're ready to make that kind of commitment before buying one. Also be prepared to provide your pet with an appropriate rabbit hutch so your bunny can feel safe and secure. Consider the amount of time you have available to interact with your pet because rabbits are social creatures and shouldn't be left alone for long periods of time. If you're thinking of getting more than one rabbit then consider purchasing one of the larger multi level rabbit hutches available.

If you decide to buy an indoor rabbit hutch then you will have to provide it with some outdoor time. A rabbit run in your garden would be ideal but be very careful to make sure it's predator proof. Never leave your rabbit unsupervised in an insecure rabbit run. If your rabbit is kept indoors you must provide it with entertainment. Allow your rabbit freedom to run around in a room but make sure there is nothing to harm it such as chemicals and electric cables. Rabbits love to chew so provide your bunny with toys and safe things to chew on.

If, on the other hand, you have room in your garden or backyard, you may consider an outdoor rabbit hutch. Outdoor hutches come in a large variety of sizes and designs. Always ensure you choose the proper size for your rabbit, keeping in mind the general rule that the hutch should be at least 4 times the size of your rabbit to allow it to move around fairly easily. Bigger is always better and some rabbit hutches even come with a run to provide your rabbit with some outdoor exploration experience. Rabbits love to hop around and explore.

When space is limited you can elect to purchase a multi level hutch to ensure your rabbit has ample space to move about. Wooden rabbit hutches are the best when choosing an outdoor hutch. Some multi level rabbit hutches even provide attic and storage space. The attic space can be filled with straw during the winter months to provide warmth and insulation. Storage space can be used to keep food and treats for your rabbit in a convenient and tidy manner. If you live in a particularly cold part of the world, rabbit hutch covers are available to provide extra warmth and insulation.

Whichever design you choose, make sure it is sturdy and safe. Rabbits are easily frightened and your hutch should provide an enclosed area where your rabbit can hide from anything that intimidates it. So next time you're choosing from amongst the many rabbit hutches available, remember these simple rules: size, safety and practicality. Making the right choice can mean the difference between having a healthy, thriving pet and one that is unhappy and unhealthy.

Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Large Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.

It is important to understand rabbits behavior in order to have a successful relationship with one. Rabbits are often seen as adorable cuddly animals and many people especially children see them as an ideal pet often times with bad results. Rabbits make wonderful pets but unlike cats and dogs they have a unique form of communication primarily through body language and occasionally verbally. They can also understand some human words but primarily respond based on your tone of voice and your body language. Once you learn their language and also the basic care requirements you will be on your way to a pleasant experience as a rabbit owner.

It helps to put into perspective the rabbits instinctive position in the wild. Rabbits are prey animals therefore they are constantly on the lookout for danger and ready at anytime to take action to avoid predators. They live in social communities called Warrens and develop a hierarchy based on domination, as far as your rabbit is concerned you are also a rabbit and will have to establish your place in the Warren. Rabbits are also very territorial and will defend their territory against invaders.

To understand your pet rabbits behavior you will have to learn the many ways of communicating. Sometimes your rabbit's expression can mean very different things so you will have to do some interpretation based on your experience with your rabbit.

Sniffing - May be annoyed or just talking to you

Grunts - Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit!

Shrill scream - Hurt or dying

Circling your feet - Can be part of a courtship dance or a means of getting attention. If other aggressive indicators are displayed, e.g. an erect tail and laid back ears, an attack is about to take place.

Chewing - is a natural behavior. This keeps your rabbits teeth ground down and is instinctive to keep any obstruction (electrical cords, etc.) that are encroaching on the entrance to his burrow

Spraying - Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as their territory. Females will also spray.

Chinning - Their chin contains scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate that they belong to them. Same as a cat rubbing its forehead on people and objects.

False pregnancy - Usually just unspayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest & stomach to line the nest. They may even stop eating as rabbits do the day before they give birth.

Bunny hop/dance - a jump straight up with a mid-air half turn and a twist usually executed in mid-run. A sign of pure joy & happiness!

Begging - Rabbits are worse than dogs about begging, especially for sweets. Beware of giving the rabbit treats as overweight rabbits are not as healthy as trim rabbits.

Boxing - rabbit stands on hind legs with their dukes up and throws punches. Stay back or your going to get it.

Territory droppings - Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment. If another rabbit lives in the same house this may always be a nuisance.

Flop - rabbit literally throws his/herself onto their side which looks like they just keeled over. You have a happy at ease rabbit.

Playing - Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar.

Burrowing: Tunneling behavior. Instinctive Rabbits are burrowing animals

Bunching - Pushing, pulling, and biting bed linens, towels, pillows. Organizing to their liking

Don't touch my stuff - Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their cage as you clean. They are creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way.

Stomping - He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).

Teeth Grinding - Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.

One of the joys of having a rabbit as a pet is to fully experience all of the behaviors your rabbit will exhibit as a happy rabbit. In order for your rabbit to be happy it is important to know how to care for and keep you rabbit comfortable.

Rabbits are social animals and do best with a fellow rabbit companion along with lots of attention form you. Make sure you provide plenty of play time along with human interaction. If your rabbit is happy and comfortable you will find that they will seek you out to cuddle and often times will curl up on your chest to take a bunny nap but don't forget most rabbits don't like to be picked up. Most rabbits will get along just fine with other animals such as dogs, cats, and other small mammals be they need to be properly introduced. Most rabbit organizations can guide you through the steps. Be cautious if you have young children since rabbits can be easily squeezed to hard and injured. Understanding your pet rabbits behavior is important but most or all enjoy your pet rabbit to the fullest.

for more information on understanding your rabbit's behavior visit www.furryfriends4life.com

Rabbits need a comfortable place to stay, whether they are kept indoors or outdoors. Rabbit hutches can be purchased in a few different types and sizes. You should find out how large your rabbit will grow before deciding on a rabbit hutch. Dwarf varieties can be comfortably kept in smaller rabbit hutches, but you should make sure your rabbit's home is large enough for it to move around in. You should also be ready with food, bedding, and a water bottle before you bring your rabbit home.

Rabbit pellet food is available from pet stores, and provides much of the nutrients that a rabbit needs. It is important to read the instructions on the bag and follow the guidelines or consult a vet to find out how much you should feed your rabbit. Younger, growing rabbits need more food. You should put the food in a food dish so you can easily find out how much your rabbit is eating. A poor appetite may be a sign of illness. You can also feed your rabbit fresh greens and vegetables. You should be careful with lettuces, because they can cause stomach upset. Rabbits like carrots as well, but you shouldn't feed them too many starchy root vegetables. Many rabbits like the green tops of carrots just as much as the carrot itself.

It is important that you always have fresh water available to your pets. Water bottles are a convenient way to allow your rabbit easy access to the water. They also tend to keep the water cleaner. Water put in bowls or dishes can get contaminated by bacteria. You should rinse out the water bottle and provide fresh water daily.

You should also carefully consider where you are going to place your rabbit hutch. Rabbits can do well in a variety of temperatures, but they should always be protected from extreme weather conditions. They can get overheated, so you should put outdoor rabbit hutches in a shady place. Outdoor hutches should have at least one side completely covered, and a solid roof to protect them from wind, rain, and snow. Even if there is a covered side to your rabbit hutch, you may want to buy or build the rabbit a wooden box for additional protection from the weather. Indoor rabbit hutches should be out of direct sunlight and away from heating or air conditioning vents.

Rabbit hutches should be large enough for the rabbit, and they should protect the rabbit from the weather and potential predators. They need to be cleaned often. New food and water should be provided daily, and you should also consider chews and chewing toys for your rabbits, since their teeth are always growing. If your rabbit is not fully grown, consult a pet store or vet to find out how large it may become as an adult. You should also handle your rabbit often. This will allow it to become more comfortable with humans, which will make it a more enjoyable pet.

Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.

Many rabbit owners come to think of their rabbits as children. They lavish their bunnies with all the indulgence and attention one might give to a small child, never missing an opportunity to slip Flopsy a treat. Unfortunately, rabbits that are consistently spoiled by overfeeding of treats, and especially the wrong treats, will suffer severe health problems. Excessive snacking is a common cause of obesity and other health problems in pet rabbits, but is easily avoided by following some common-sense guidelines.

It helps to begin with a basic understanding of the rabbit digestive system. When a rabbit eats, the food first passes into the stomach. Not much happens here- the food is simply sterilized to prepare it for further digestion. The food continues down into the small colon, where the majority of the sugar and protein is digested, as in humans. Indigestible fiber continues down the digestive tract, and although no nutrients are absorbed from it, it cleans out the tract and conditions the muscles that keep waste moving through the system, before being excreted as the hard, dry pellets you find in the litterbox.

At this point, though, a great deal of the mass of hay and grass the rabbit has eaten has not yet been digested. These tough, hard to digest materials are diverted into an organ called the cecum, which is home to a thriving bacterial metropolis. These beneficial bacteria do the dirty work of breaking down tough compounds like lignin and cellulose, which would otherwise be impossible to digest. The partially digested food, clumped into mucous-covered pellets called cecotrophes or "night pellets", is then passed back into the colon and excreted, only to be immediately re-ingested by the rabbit! This "coprophagic" behavior isn't something you want to think about much if you're squeamish, but luckily, it tends to happen out of sight- hence the term "night pellets." Pleasant or not, it is an absolutely essential biological process for rabbits, and anything that disturbs this process will lead to health problems.

The bacterial colony in the cecum is delicately balanced. Beneficial bacteria must compete with "squatter" bacteria that do not contribute to the digestive process, as well as adapting to the rabbit's internal chemistry. They thrive on consistency- no news is good news, as far as cecal bacteria are concerned. When you give a rabbit a sweet, sugary treat, those bacteria suddenly have a rich supply of quick, easy energy to feed on, and their population explodes. The chemistry of the cecum shifts, and the bacteria have to struggle to adjust. When this happens, rabbit owners often observe what is known in technical terms as "poopy butt syndrome." The rabbit's cecotrophes lose their consistency, and instead of passing cleanly from the anus and being re-eaten, they cake onto the rabbit's rear. This can lead to a whole host of other problems, and if the problem is not addressed, may end in death.

At this point, you might be wondering, "Why give rabbits treats at all?" The answer is pretty straightforward: for all the same reasons you would give a child an ice cream cone. It makes the child happy, which is its own reward, and it can be a great way to reinforce a positive behavior. Rabbits are the same. They enjoy those rich, sweet snacks just as much as we do, and a little dessert now and again will be a pleasure to your bunny. Moreover, treats are extremely useful when it comes to litter training, teaching tricks, or simply establishing a pet-owner bond. When healthful treats are given in sensible quantities, the end results should be an improvement in the rabbit's overall quality of life.

Rabbit treats usually fall into one of several categories: Compressed cereal bars/sticks, mueslix, pellets or puffed kibble, and candied treats. What all types of rabbit treats have in common are high levels of sugar, fat, protein, and starch. Any one of these nutrients can lead to the kinds of problems mentioned earlier, so it's important to restrict your rabbit's intake of any treat. Yoghurt-covered cqandy drops are the worst culprits in this respect, and though many rabbits love these treats, they should probably be avoided except on the most special occasions, or when the rabbit is underweight. Seed and grain mixes seem are a better alternative, as they contain little sugar, but remember that seeds are rich, high-protein packages. Rabbits retain body fat even better than humans, so that they can keep warm while wintering, but since you should be keeping your rabbit indoors for the winter, you want to keep them from bulking up unnecessarily. As an alternative to packaged treats, try fresh fruit. Rabbits typically enjoy berries, melon, papaya, apple (without stem or seeds), and many others. Bananas are a bit more starchy and sweet than you really want, so they should probably be avoided.

At the end of the day, rabbits are individuals, and there are no hard and fast rules for them. The best way to give your rabbits treats in a sensible, healthy manner is to introduce them as gradually as possible. As you begin to give treats on a limited basis, keep observing your rabbit. If he loses appetite, develops diarrhea or becomes gassy, or begins to put on weight excessively, stop giving treats for a while. When the problem is resolved, you can try offering something else, ideally something with a lower sugar or protein content. Keep experimenting, but always be patient and conservative. You should be able to find a healthy balance for your rabbit, one that is stimulating and enjoyable without negatively impacting its overall quality of life.

Even healthy Rabbit Treats can have ill effects on your pet rabbit if you feed them excessively. It's hard not to spoil your rabbit but you must ration the amount of treats you provide them, to ensure your rabbit stays healthy and happy. In addition to treats it's of the utmost importance to provide your rabbit with quality Rabbit Cages to relax in.

So you've decided you want to buy a rabbit, but before you head off and choose your new furry companion you have to prepare for his arrival. This can be a daunting process, with the huge variety of different sized rabbit hutches available. The first thing you have to consider is where you'll be keeping a Brer, indoors or outdoors. Once you've narrowed that choice down, the next thing to do is shop for the appropriate hutch.

Because rabbits come in different shapes and sizes, a good rule of thumb is to get a hutch that is at least four times larger than your rabbit. Bigger is always better and you should try to buy the biggest hutch you can afford. If space is an issue there are many multi level wooden rabbit hutches you can choose for to ensure your rabbit has enough space to hop around and explore. Not only is it vital to provide ample space for your rabbit so it thrives, inadequate space can result in long term health problems and damage.

Always buy from a reputable dealer or pet shop, and choose the sturdiest rabbit hutch you can find. If you're planning on keeping your rabbit outdoors it's crucial to select a well crafted rabbit hutch if you want it to last and withstand weather conditions. Special rabbit hutch covers can also be found if you need extra protection and insulation.

If space is not an option, large rabbit hutches that come with a rabbit run are an ideal option for allowing your rabbit a sense of freedom and the opportunity to do some exploring. Some outdoor rabbit hutches come with storage space to allow you to conveniently stored food, medicine and toys. Your outdoor rabbit hutch may even have an attic which you can fill with straw on colder days to provide extra warmth and insulation.

A very important feature of any rabbit hutch, be it an indoor or outdoor one, is security. Rabbits are shy, delicate creatures and must be given the chance to be able to hide from any perceived threats in order to feel secure in their environment. If your rabbit is to be kept outdoors, special care must be given to provide safety from predators such as dogs, cats, foxes and even badgers. A predator can kill a pet even without getting into the cage, so a hideaway is extremely important to keep your pet safe. This enclosed area with also serve as your bunny's sleeping area, and if you have more than one rabbit, make sure you have sufficient nesting areas for each as rabbits prefer to nest individually.

If you're going to be keeping more than one rabbit then make sure you get a large hutch otherwise your rabbits may end up fighting. Rabbits can be territorial so avoid any future problems by investing in the biggest rabbit hutch you can afford.

Getting the appropriate housing for your pet is very important if you are to keep your pet healthy and happy, also make sure you allocate enough time during the day to play with your rabbit so it doesn't feel lonely and bored.

Tom Woodcock is a Pet Lover, pet product expert and builder of rabbit hutches. To learn more about Rabbit Hutches and Rabbit Runs visit him online.

Just like other domestic pets, your dear rabbits need to have a proper place to live in. This is so important as this is one factor for their survival. When you plan to raise a rabbit at home, rabbit housing is a thing that you must not take for granted.

When making a shelter or hutch for your dear pet rabbit, there are some essential things that you need to take into account.

These are the following you need to consider when you are going to build a rabbit hutch.

*When designing a rabbit hutch ( or when you buy one) you need to consider the size, it should be at least 5 times the length ( not height) of your pet rabbit. This is important as your rabbits need to have enough space to roam inside the hutch - remember, rabbits love to play around. The wider the area the better for them

*Another thing is, you have to consider its durability or the quality of the materials needed for building most especially when you are going to place you hutch outdoor. This will help your dear pet safe from predators that might be just roaming around. Actually, for outdoor rabbit hutch, most rabbit raisers prefer the combination of wooden and wire materials.

*You also need to take into consideration the proper ventilation when designing. You have to see to it that your rabbit hutch is well ventilated so that you can avoid your rabbits from exhaustion that might lead to more problems. Extreme temperature can really harm them compared to cold so make sure that you give your rabbit the hutch that is ideal for them to take enough air, and avoid extreme temperature that could be lethal to them.

*Location outdoor is also important in rabbit housing. You may want to put your rabbit hutch at a certain distance that can easily be accessed when in times your pet rabbits need you. A place that does not hinder the flow of your domestic tasks or home daily house chores.

*Another essential point when building a rabbit hutch is that you do not need to purchase all the raw materials when you think you have these things in your storage room. Reuse them if possible to economize - just buy the lacking ones.

So, above are just few tips for rabbit housing. Just always remember, be innovative, be creative, and be pro-rabbit when designing your rabbit hutch.

P.S. David Troy is a rabbit enthusiast who has successfully raised pet rabbit in years. He is also running an online resource which is aimed to give important information about effective pet rabbit raising at home through his website http://rabbit-center.com

With only a brief understanding of the anatomy of a rabbit, you will be in a better position to help the rabbit if it falls ill or sick.

The skeletal system of the adult rabbit's total weight is about 7 to 8% of bones and 50% muscles. Rabbits have quite fragile bones and as such should be handled gently. The bones tend not to be that strong, and can be easily injured or broken. Avoid, accidentally dropping the animal as this could cause severe harm and discomfort to the animal.

The alimentary canal of an adult rabbit can reach about 4 meters long and it is made up of the esophagus, stomach, small intestine, caecum and colon. Food passes from the mouth directly into the esophagus and then the stomach where it resides for a while. Through muscular intestinal contractions, the food is projected into the small intestine where digestive enzymes are released to aid the digestion of the food.

To ensure proper digestion, it is important that the rabbit's feed contains a lot of fiber.

The caecum is where specialized bacteria reside which through fermentation turn digestible fiber into nutrients. This unique process is called "refection" where soft fecal pellets are produced, called cecotrophs, in the form of clusters which the rabbit re-eats. This is usually done without the owner's observation. These "caecal pellets" are essential to a rabbit's health producing 35% of its daily calories. The regular fecal pellets the colon releases are hard, and rich in nitrogen. They make good fertilizer.

Rabbits have long ears that make up about 12 % of the animal's body surface. Indeed rabbits are famous for their ears, being the most conspicuous part of the animal. Since a rabbit does not swear, the ears contain lots of blood vessels which are used as an internal cooling system. Rabbits should never be carried or picked up by their ears as this cause them pain and unnecessary suffering.

The head carries the large dark eyes, lips for tasting and a mouth with a set of 28 teeth. Rabbits have very acute vision for distant viewing of objects. They are also able to see eight times better in the dark than humans can. The rabbit has a nose which is virtually twitching none stop. The frequency of twitching is an indication of a state of fright or curiosity in the rabbit.

Rabbit teeth can grow to as much as five inches every year. One of the reasons why rabbits should be given hay at all times is so that they have some material on which they can chew to keep the growth of their teeth in check. Rabbits eat at night-time too.

Rabbits also have whiskers which they use as a navigational aid in moving around. Whiskers also help the animal to locate food. Do not trim the animal's whiskers. Rabbit have quite active vocal cords which they can use when distressed. Having said that rabbits are quiet animals. They can squeak, grunt and hiss. Under serious conditions of fright rabbits can also scream. You should avoid frightening situations as they can easily die from fright. Learn to read their signs, and act accordingly.

The rabbit has four legs with the fore limbs being shorter than the hind limbs. They are adaptive for helping the rabbit hop and flee from predators. Rabbits are quite athletic and can reach speeds of over 20 mph for short distances, and jump as high as four feet and as broad as four feet. The rabbit's paws are not padded but only covered with fur so can become sore against wire cage floors. Their nails grow continuously so have to be trimmed regularly. If they are not it causes difficulty in walking, accompanied by pain.

Keeping a good eye on your rabbit can help identify problems before they get too serious. Certainly if you go into rabbit farming, some knowledge of the rabbit anatomy will help you.

For more information on rabbit farming, check out this ebook entitled "How to Start A Rabbit Farm".

Alan B. Stables is a freelance writer on alternative agriculture, has organized several world conferences and has also been a guest speaker in Brazil, China, Egypt, Italy, Latvia and Spain, on how to market agricultural produce for maximum returns.