Posts Tagged ‘training’

There are apparent concerns about ferret training and discipline. For one thing, some owners feel that disciplining their pets may only lead to aggression or bad behavior as shown by some ferrets. Others also feel that a practice about ferret training not to bite is downright hard and complicated. On the other hand, this reaction only elicits misconceptions and bad teaching practices. For the more you consider difficulty, the more you lose every chance to tame and teach them some good manners.

It is a given how ferrets tend to nip and bite. Excitement and playfulness are also some of the possible reasons behind these actions. It is also natural for ferrets to play continuously and have less reference to what people perceive as ordinary. But how do we teach ferret training not to bite? Are their particular principles and ways? What are the best methods to work with?

Here are five easy ways:

1. Try to understand the cause of their nipping and biting. Are they doing this out of fun or play? Is someone provoking your pet? Is there something that causes him to react in this manner? These questions have to be answered first and studying the acts and demeanor of your pet forms part of the ferret training not to bite manuals and practices.

2. Utilize a concrete procedure to instill discipline. Meaning, try to use hand signals or some form of verbal warning. Call your ferrets by their given name. Try to do this by not shouting or hurting your pet.

3. Delayed punishment may also comprise this ferret training not to bite list. To begin with, punishments or acts of violence are definitely not advised. You have to learn how to control yourself and assess every situation with an open mind. It is also best to put a ferret back to his cage if he continues to nip or bite.

4. Distancing oneself from you ferret is also an applicable act. Gently put your pet down the floor and allow him to bid some time. Lessening the tension is basically what you are trying to achieve here and it also means, positioning yourself away from the situation using the most discreet ways and means.

5. You have to admit that any ferret training not to bite manual would recommend the last obvious thing, which is called the severe measure system. Others simply refer to this as the imposition of drastic measures if the need for it arises. For instance, if your ferret continuously nips or bites, taking him back to his cage or allotting some form of 'time out' can be applied. You can initiate this step by lowering him slowly to the floor and wait for him to calm down.

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Some first-time rabbit owners, accustomed to thinking of rabbits as being more similar to a rat or gerbil than a dog or cat, are surprised to find out that rabbits are some of the most litter training-ready pets around. This is partly a function of their natural intelligence, which makes the receptive to training of all kinds, and also of their natural history. Feces and urine, of course, bear strong odors, and in the wild this is a major cue for predators who might fancy a rabbit for lunch. To better prevent detection by such predators, wild rabbits designate specific locations away from the nest as "bathrooms". This same instinct makes it a fairly simple matter to litter-train a house rabbit, requiring only a few litterboxes and some patience on the owner's part.

At the beginning of litter training, keep in mind that rabbits use their waste much the same as dogs do- to mark their territories and establish "ownership" of an area. When introduced to the unfamiliar environment of its new cage, your rabbit is likely to spread its droppings and urine over every available space. This is to be expected, and you should not make any effort to discourage this- the only effect punitive measures are likely to have is to make the rabbit less secure in its ownership of the cage, impelling it to continue its territory marking. For this same reason, you should try not to invade the cage space any more than necessary while the bunny is inside of it- try to save cleaning and other chores for when the rabbit is enjoying free time outside the cage. Similarly, you should avoid forcibly removing your rabbit from his cage, or physically placing him in it. Let it come and go at will, with some non-coercive "encouragement" if necessary.

Once the rabbit begins feeling secure in its new home, it should begin designating a certain spot as its preferred litter area. Once it has made up its mind, there's not much point in trying to convince it otherwise. Your best bet is to place its litterbox in the spot it has chosen. Including some hay, and perhaps a small treat, will encourage the rabbit to explore the litterbox and become accustomed to using it. If your rabbit chooses to use the litterbox as a play area or bed, don't worry- this isn't a problem. You'll want to clean the litterbox out frequently at first, since this will encourage the rabbit to reapply its "markings" to the box.

The rabbit should quickly begin to form a habit of using a litterbox. Rabbits, by nature, love routine, and it won't take long before using a litterbox begins to feel "normal". Now you can begin training him to use litterboxes outside the cage environment. This will require supervision, so set aside an hour or two for this activity. Set aside a small area for the rabbit to run free- too much space will be confusing. Place a litterbox or two in the corners of the area. Watch your rabbit as it explores, and be on the lookout for the tell-tale signs of a bunny about to pass waste. If it heads for a corner that doesn't have a litterbox, or lifts its tail as if about to pass, you need to interrupt the act with a sharp burst of sound- a shout of "NO!", or a loud clap. You want to get the rabbit either back into its cage, or over to a litterbox, without creating the impression that the litterbox is a place of punishment or confinement. Herd the rabbit with insistent noises, clapping, or other pressures without actually physically forcing it anywhere. Once it's in the box, reinforce the positive behavior with some hay or other treat.

Repeat this process daily, always using positive reinforcement, never punishment. It shouldn't take long for the rabbit to get the idea that using the litter box is a good way to get a treat, whereas urinating elsewhere brings an annoying human around. Once this becomes habitual, you shouldn't need to use any cues to induce the rabbit to use a litterbox. Persistent difficulties in litter training may be a sign of psychological or physical ailments in your rabbit, and you should talk to a vet or other expert.

Most owners don't ever have these kind of problems. Rabbits are one of the naturally cleanest pets available, and you will most likely find that litter training is a speedy, easy process. Good luck to you and your rabbit!

When it comes to the health and happiness of your pet rabbit, choosing a quality living environment should be on the top of your list. Whether you choose quality Rabbit Cages for sale or opt for larger Rabbit Hutches, the quality of the materials and the construction of the dwelling will determine how well it works for your particular furry friend.

Whether you already have experience of dog ownership, are a new dog owner or are about to be a dog owner, then training your dog is one of the most important aspects you need to consider. Likewise if you currently have a dog with behaviour problems, then dog training is essential.

However, knowing you need to train your dog and actually training your dog are two entirely different things. Just where do you start?

To successfully train your dog, you need to consider and understand some key facets of dog behaviour. Knowing and understanding these 5 facets will greatly improve your dog training.

1. The origins of dogs. Dogs are in essence descended from modern day wolves. While domestication has dampened or eliminated many traits, some key natural instincts still remain. Like wolves, dogs are pack animals. What does this mean?

Well, there are several traits that derive from being a pack animal. The important ones when it comes to training are dogs are naturally sociable, they are used to routine and they are used to a social structure (i.e. the famed alpha male).

As sociable animals dogs thrive on the interaction with other dogs. A dog does not consider you as a human but rather a funny looking dog. Therefore, dogs thrive on the interaction with you. Just like a wild wolf, rejected by the pack, if you starve a dog of this interaction, they will become unhappy and very agitated.

When it comes to training, you can use this to reward or punish your dog. Interacting with your dog (e.g. patting, encouraging/excited talk, etc) can be as much of a reward as treats of food. Similarly, ignoring your dog (e.g. turning your back, stern talk, putting them in another room, etc) can be a harsh punishment for a dog. Its definitely better than smacking them.

As with all animals (including humans), dogs thrive on routine. If they know what and when they are likely to be doing certain things, then they are relaxed and comfortable. They know what to expect and are not confused by ever changing circumstances.

Training should also stick to a routine. Decide when the best time of the day is best for you to train your dog and stick by that time as rigidly as possible. Your dog will soon get into a routine of expecting to be trained at say 3pm every day and will be prepared for when training time comes. If your dog is ready and expecting to be trained, then it goes without saying that they will actually train better.

Within a pack there is always the alpha male. The dog that leads the pack, protects the pack and ultimately ensures the pack is fed and survives. As mentioned, a dog sees you as a funny looking dog and not a human. To be a good dog owner you absolutely need to be the alpha male. How many nature programs have you seen where the alpha male is being challenged by one of the other would be alpha males? Likewise, your dog will be challenging you to be the alpha male - this is a natural instinct for them.

You must establish yourself as the alpha male from the beginning. Providing food, interaction, punishing bad behaviour, body and vocal language all go towards asserting yourself as the alpha male. If your dog does not consider you as the alpha male, then they will not listen or act on your training instructions.

2. A dog's memory. We all know that goldfish have short memories. However, you may be surprised to know that dogs also have short retention memories. If you could tell your dog something, it is likely that by the next day or a few hours later, they will have forgotten. On the other had (or paw) dogs do have incredibly good associated memory. This basically means that if your dog can associated something with what you tell it then it will likely remember what you told it for years to come.

For example if you told your dog (assuming you could speak doggy language) that the chocolate biscuits were in the cupboard your dog would probably forget this within a few hours. However, if you showed your dog where the chocolate biscuits were, repeating the words 'chocolate biscuits', every time you said 'chocolate biscuits' it would probably go straight to the cupboard. It may also search the cupboard every few hours for the rest of its life looking for the chocolate biscuits but that's not the point.

Therefore, when training your dog you need to associate the training topic with something. For example: if you are teaching your dog to sit. If you associate the word 'sit' by getting your dog to physically sit and then giving them a reward. Repeat this a few times and soon your dog will associate your command 'sit' with it physically sitting and then getting a reward. The difficult bit is disassociating the reward - ask yourself why almost every dog will naturally sit when you have food in your hand?

3. Doggy language. Despite comments above, we cannot speak doggy language and dogs cannot speak our language. This is important when it comes to training. You have to choose words for commands that both you and your dog will remember. Be careful not to choose very common words or else your dog will be easily confused when this word keeps appearing within the middle of a sentence. A common word often used in training dogs is 'come'. For this example, it may be better to use a slang version or combine 'come here' into a single short word.

The important thing is that when you decide on a word for a command to stick with it and be consistent, otherwise your dog will become confused.

I know it can be difficult, especially if you come home to your new TV pulled off the cabinet, to always use pre-selected words when talking to your dog. Your dog does not speak human language and will only know what those few words you have trained it with are (and the tone you have used). So if you start using other words or different tones your dog will not understand.

For example: imagine someone speaking to you in a foreign language asking for directions to the city hall. You can't understand a word they are saying yet they get more and more frustrated, talking in a louder and quicker language. Is it your fault you can't understand them? Why are they getting angrier when you have no idea what they are saying? What is their problem? What will I do? Similarly, if you haven't trained your dog to understand what 'sit' is and you start shouting 'sit', 'down on back legs', 'down', etc is it your dog's fault it is looking at you confused and increasingly scared.

4. Puppy behaviour. Just like babies, puppies do not know how the world works or how they are supposed to behave within that world. They need to be taught and learn what is good, bad, right or wrong.

A healthy and happy puppy will be a bundle of energy, desperate to explore as much as they can as quickly as they can. Dogs do not have good eyes that can see things or hands that can feel the intricacies of objects. Instead they have noses that can smell things and mouths that can chew objects.

While this can come through training and general maturing, the importance of this is that you must be patient and understand where your dog is coming from and why it does what it does.

5. Structure and enjoyment. While I have in a round about way touched on these two above, no dog training information would be complete without mentioning these two aspects on their own.

However you decide to train your dog, as with routine, you must have a structure to your training. If you have never trained a dog before, how do you know when your dog can start learning to sit, stay, etc and when it can run down to the local shop and pick the paper up for you? 

You need to know what it is you actually want to train your dog to ultimately be able to do and what steps you need to take to get to that point. Personnel dog trainers, dog training classes and dog training guides can all do this. Personally, I prefer to train my own dogs and believe that in the end you develop a much stronger bond with your dog. Also, your dog is more obedient to you rather than the trainer. However, at the very least, and particularly if you have never trained a dog before, I would recommend purchasing a dog training guide.

The small amount of money for a dog training guide, compared to the time you would waste searching for free online tips that will be a mix match of training and will not provide the structure, is just not worth it. More than that, the time saved in training and the end result of a properly trained dog for the rest of its life (around 15 years) is worth many times more than the cost of even the most basic training guide.

If you, and more importantly your dog, do not enjoy training then you will never properly train your dog. Training will take longer and be much harder. When you start training your dog remember they are most likely to be a puppy and at that age all they want to do is run and explore their new world. Be flexible with the time you plan to spend training. Try and keep training short but if your dog appears to be really enjoying it then be prepared to train for longer. Likewise if your dog will just not focus, then maybe leave it for a bit before going back to it. With a routine and structure to your training, your dog will soon learn that when it comes to training they need to focus for a short length of time and will be better able to do so.

I hope the above has been helpful in your desire to train your dog. By knowing why and how your dog does what it does, you should be able to understand it's behaviour much better. By using this understanding you can better bond with your dog and train your dog. A good training routine and structure as well as plenty of patience and eventually you will have a well trained dog. Always always always make sure training is enjoyable for both you and especially your dog.

If you found this dog training advice article helpful, please feel free to visit my website for more information. As well as dog training guidance such as the best dog training book you will also find lots of information on being a good dog owner and how to keep your dog healthy.

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A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.

Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.

Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.

If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.

Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.

At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.

How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.

This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.

Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.

Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.

Understand the command.

Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.

All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.

You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.

This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.

How to reprimand

Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.

Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.

It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.

In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!

The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.

When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"

Limits to the extent of training.

It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.

Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.

Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.

Choice of breed to train.

If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort

This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.

A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.

In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.

Training dogs with different temperaments.

In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.

Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.

1.Dog Number One.

The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.

Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.

2. Dog Number two.

The shy, timid dog.

This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.

3. Dog Number three.

The lazy dog.

This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.

Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,

Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.

For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.

Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".

"BLITZ."

With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not

As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!

In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.

He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.

A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!

Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.

There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.

After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.

Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.

Dog number 2. "Flinch"

Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.

This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.

But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.

Dog refuses to budge.

After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.

In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.

As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.

Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.

Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.

There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.

Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.

If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:

This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"

Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.

The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.

Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"

The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.

Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.

One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.

Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.

Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.

The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.

Use the training collar correctly.

Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.

This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.

Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com

After you've housebroken your dog, he needs to learn four behaviors to be a well-mannered pet. You can't teach them to him all at once, however. Focus on one behavior for a week or so. If your dog is mastering one behavior, add another.

If you have the time, work with your dog twice a day for about 15 minutes. "All work and no play," applies to him as well. Use your dog's leash and training collar during each training session.

1. Sit. This is usually the easiest behavior for your dog to learn, and most trainers start with it. There are two ways to teach it, but both involve you taking the slack of the leash with your right hand. Don't pop the leash.

In method one, use your right hand to offer a treat slightly over and behind your pet's head. Give the command, "Sit." This will cause your dog to sit because he's off balance. Praise him and give him the treat. If you are training a puppy, use this method but without the training collar and leash.

In method two, you press your dog's rump, exerting gentle pressure down. The first few times he may not sit down completely, but praise him and give him a treat anyway.

Only say the command one time. Give your pet up to 30 seconds before trying again. He may want to think about it. If he doesn't sit, tell him, "No," and try again.

Develop a word to let you dog know that he doesn't have to sit anymore.

Called a "release" word, it's similar to the military term "at ease." Most

trainers just say, "OK."

2. Stay. "Stay" is a command used in conjunction with another, like sit. You are asking your dog to hold the position you put him in. After your dog learns "Stay" in relation to another particular command, it's easy for him to understand what to do when he's in a different position.

To teach your dog to "Stay," start by commanding your dog to sit at your side. Hold the slack leash in a straight up from his head. Hold an open palm in front of his nose and say "Stay." Step in front of your pet so you can block his forward motion. If he moves, give him the stop signal with your hand again, and repeat "Stay." If he stays, move back alongside him, wait a second, then praise him.

Once you get your dog to stay, build up time and distances slowly. When

you can get him to stay at the end of a six-foot lease, tug a little. If he

moves, correct him by telling him, "No.". Repeat and try again. Continue

to work on this with a 20-foot retractable leash if you want.

3. Come. This is probably the most important command you'll teach your dog, because a loose dog can easily be injured or killed. Knowing this command could literally save your pet's life. Many dog owners think this is the hardest thing to teach your dog, but actually it's the easiest! All you have to do is ask your dog to sit while he's on the leash, call his name, say "Come," and praise him when he comes to you. Use longer and longer leashes over time, and your dog will come when called.

So why is it that so many dogs bolt out open front doors and take off for the hills? Some dogs are bored. If your pet isn't stimulated enough, he'll head for the places that he smells may have more entertainment - like your neighbor's yard with its inviting trash cans. Keeping your dog stimulated helps.

Mostly, bolting dogs that won't come back to their owners are the result of poor dog owner training. Your pet, having been mightily scolded for tearing off down the street, narrowly escaping speeding cars, chasing the neighbor's cat and knocking over trash cans, knows he'll be in big trouble. The key is, once you've cornered the escapee, DO NOT scold him or yell at him. As hard as it is, try not to show him your anger or fear. Squat down, open your arms, and every time he moves toward you, praise him more. It is important to never, ever correct or punish a dog that comes to you, even if it's too late for the trash cans. Try positive methods instead like commanding him to sit - most dogs do this well. Some errant dogs respond to their owners running away from them.

Other dogs don't know the "Come" command. That's because you probably just call your dog's name to have him come to you. It's important to use the "Come" command daily around the house.

If you really are a remedial dog owner trainee, your dog won't come because you haven't been training him or showing him that you are the leader of the pack. Your dog has to respect you and know what you expect of him to listen to your commands.

Be sure to train your dog to "Come" under all kinds of circumstances, including when other animals are present, when there are a lot of distractions, and in different settings. If you don't teach your dog anything else, teach him to come to you for his own safety.

4. Off. This command teaches your pet not to jump on people or furniture. Your pet will try to do jump on people to elevate his order in the pack - it's normal dog behavior. It's up to you to remind him that you are the leader. Keep your dog's leash on him when he's in the house. When he jumps up on you or other people, snap the leash to engage the slip collar, and say, "Off." Praise your dog when he stops jumping.

This is the same command you use when you want your dog off a piece of furniture. Simply take him by the collar, say, "Off," lead him off the sofa and praise him. Remember, if you let your dog on your bed or furniture, it's important to remind him that he has to be invited. If he jumps up next to you uninvited, be consistent with the "Off" command.

You'll notice a difference almost immediately. Don't stop the daily training sessions. He needs reminders, just like humans do!

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

To make having a pet hamster more exciting, you may want to train her to do some tricks. Just like dogs, cats, birds, and other animals, hamsters can also be taught to do certain things. Training your hamster is easy if you have patience.

Patience is very important because for you to be able to train your hamster, she needs to be very comfortable with you first. If you just brought your hamster home from the pet store, you'll need to let her get accustomed to her new surroundings first.

On the first day, upon arriving from the store, place her in the cage and leave her alone. Just go near the cage when you're going to feed her and try to maintain some distance.

On the second day, you can go near the cage once in a while but don't feed your hamster with your hand yet, use a tool to put her food in the cage. The following day, feed your pet with your hand but maintain some distance away from the food to allow her to get used to your presence.

Each day, gradually move a little closer until your hamster starts to trust that she can take food from your hand without harm. Once you have tamed her, you may then handle your hamster.

Training your hamster is best while she is still young because at this age, they tend to adapt more quickly. Ages four to seven weeks is a good age to start taming your hamster.

Also, give your hamster a name and while you are taming her, use her name when you speak to her. This helps your hamster understand that you're talking to her.

Once you've begun training your hamster, prepare treats that you can reward your pet with when she has done, or attempted to do, what you ask of her. The treat doesn't have to be anything fancy, just something that she likes, such as a sunflower seed.

For example, if you want to teach your hamster how to stand on her hind legs, hold the treat above her head and let her reach for it. Show her that you appreciate what she did by giving her the treat. Do this repeatedly until she understands that when you place your hand above her head, she needs to stand.

Teach your pet to do one trick at a time but don't overwhelm her. After she has mastered the first one, then you can move on to the next.

You can train your hamster to do tricks such as shaking hands, jumping and potty training. The last one can be sometimes be challenging but it's definitely possible.

As mentioned earlier, patience is the key. Your pet just needs a bit of time to get used to things, so help her along by having her do the trick until she becomes familiar with it.

You are now ready for training your hamster. With just a few treats, an hour or so a day and a lot of patience, you'll soon have a wonder pet that will do what you ask of her.

Emily Brock is a hamster lover. For more great tips and advice on training your hamster visit http://HamsterLifeAnswers.com/

I was recently in a social setting where I was asked about my dog, Rocco. Rocco is my Rottweiler who has undergone extensive protection dog training. We were engrossed in a discussion about his training and capabilities when we were overheard by another person.

"Oh, you shouldn't train your dog to do that stuff. That makes them vicious," was her statement injected into our conversation. I was initially a bit taken-aback and annoyed; not only was her comment unsolicited but it was based on a lack of knowledge. As I thought about it more, however, I came to realize that this is a common style of thinking. There are many misconceptions about protection dogs and protection dog training. Let me dispel some of the myths of protection dogs and talk about protection dog training at its root to combat some of the more prevalent misinformation.

First, let me do a bit of defining. There are many terms thrown around that are often interchanged incorrectly.

Attack Dog- A poorly trained, typically anti-social, and fearful creature. Ineffective except for looking tough.

Guard Dog- A dog that is trained to guard an area. Guard dogs are often used on estates, warehouses, or open areas that need guarding. Guard dogs may or may not be good with people and may or may not have obedience training.

Police Patrol Dog- A dog that is trained to work chasing down criminals. They are trained to be used on the offensive.

Protection Dog- A dog that is trained to be used first and foremost as a defensive deterrent. A protection dog is trained to show aggression on command and turn off on command. A protection dog is trained to attack on command or if the aggressor is not deterred by the show of aggression. A protection dog has high levels of obedience training.

So now let me return to the original statement. Does training a protection dog make him vicious? I understand why many people would assume this. After all, you are training a dog to show aggression, bite a person, and do what is necessary to combat a human. Protection dog training does not, however, make a dog vicious.

There are several styles and methods for protection dog training. At its root, however, there are two instincts, or drives, that protection dog trainers harness time and time again to achieve results. Let's examine them.

Prey Drive

Prey drive is a drive that most dogs possess, not just protection dogs. A Labrador retriever chases a tennis ball because of prey drive. The local mongrel chases a car because of prey drive. Essentially, prey drive is a dog's desire to chase and capture a fast moving object. Nothing vicious about it. A good protection dog trainer will harness this drive to teach a puppy to chase a rag. As the puppy grows older he graduates from a rag to a tug. From a tug the trainer teaches the dog to bite a sleeve or a dog training bite suit. All the while the training is approached as a game. As a fun way to use energy and satisfy drive. Basically, the decoy, or guy wearing the bite suit or sleeve, is not viewed as a 'bad guy' but as a partner in a fun game. As training progresses, a good trainer will train the dog to discount the presence of equipment and view the person as the prey object. All of this training is done on command only. As training progresses the dog is taught to only respond when he hears the dog training command from his owner. This ensures for safety and control.

Defense Drive

All creatures have some sort of defense mechanism. Dogs have three ways of dealing with an aggressor: fight, flight, or avoidance. In protection dog training a good trainer will utilize a dog's defense drive to build on what he has learned with prey drive. The trainer will show the dog that in certain situations a person is a threat and can be dealt with using the skills taught in prey drive. In this way, prey drive and defense drive work together. In essence, a dog is taught that when given a command that the aggressor is a real threat and he should use his skills to fight the threat. As with prey drive these skills are taught only under command and with high levels of control and safety.

There are not many dogs capable of this level of training. A dog that can accomplish this is a strong and very confident dog. This level of confidence is what often makes protection dogs safe and good with people. They are so confident that they don't view people as threats unless told to under command by their owner. Protection dog training often bolsters this confidence as these dogs learn the power that they have and their innate abilities.

So are these dogs vicious? Absolutely not. Their natural drives have merely been harnessed to teach them new skills. I like to compare a well trained protection dog with a well trained soldier. Is a soldier more of a danger because of his training? Many would argue that he or she isn't. The advanced levels of training turn a soldier into a person who is extremely confident. A soldier is capable of being a loving and caring family member in one setting and tool of battle in another. Just because a soldier is capable of using weapons under one setting does not make that person 'vicious'.

Confidence is the opposite of fear. Fear is what causes many problems both in dog and human alike. When you combine the confidence and high levels of control in a well trained protection dog, I contend that you have a dog that is safe to be around and definitely not vicious.

Ty Brown is a leading dog training authority with numerous radio and television appearances to his credit. Visit www.dogbehavioronline.com to view free articles and for more puppy resources and check out his dog training business

In order to be considered properly trained, there are some basic commands that he or she must master. Understanding these basic commands is vital to the well being of the dog, the owner and the family.

Learning just a few basic commands can go a long way toward creating a dog that is a joy to be around. Everyone has seen examples of both well trained and poorly trained dogs, and few people would opt for the poorly trained varieties. Training a dog properly the first time is especially vital for owners of dog breeds that have been bred for their aggressiveness, such as pit bulls, Doberman pinchers and German shepherds.

In addition, proper training is important for families with young children. Young children can torment dogs and cause biting reactions, so it is important that the dog learn how to deal with these types of situations.

The basic obedience commands that every dog must know are - "Heel", "No", "Sit", "Stay", "Down" and "Off". These six commands form the basis of every basic obedience class, and it is vital that you and your dog master these basic commands. These are the fundamentals, and it will be impossible to move onto other commands, or to correct problem behaviors, without having mastered the basics.

Heel

Let's start with the most basic command of all, the heel command. Teaching a dog to heel is the fundamental first step in teaching the dog to walk properly on the leash. The proper place for the dog to walk is at your side, neither lagging behind nor straining to get ahead.

If your dog begins to forge ahead on the lead, gently tug on the leash. This will cause the training collar to tighten and give the dog a gentle reminder to fall back into line. If the dog begins to lag behind, gently urge him forward. A lure or toy is a good tool for the dog that constantly lags behind.

Once the dog is consistently walking at your side, try changing your pace and encouraging the dog to match his pace with yours. It should always be the dog who adjusts his pace to you; you should never adjust your pace to meet the needs of the dog.

The word "No"

The word no is an important one for your dog to learn, and one you may be using a lot as training begins. It is important that the dog learn to respond to a sharp "No" promptly and obediently.

The "Sit" command

The sit command is another vital link in the chain that is dog training. Teaching a dog to sit on command, using voice commands alone, will form the groundwork of much future training, so it is important for the dog to master this vital skill.

The sit command can be combined with the heel command. As you walk alongside your dog, stop abruptly. If your dog does not stop when you do, give a sharp tug on the leash to remind the dog. Many dogs will instinctively stop when you do, while others need to be reminded through the use of the leash and the training collar.

Once the dog has stopped by your side, urge him to sit by pushing gently on his hindquarters. It is important not to use too much pressure, or to push him down abruptly. Doing so could frighten, or even injure the dog. Rather, apply a steady downward pressure. Most dogs will recognize this as a sit command. It is important to say the word sit as you do this.

Repeat this procedure a few times by walking, stopping and sitting your dog. After a few repetitions, the dog will probably begin to sit down on his own every time he stops. It is important to say the word sit each time, so that the dog will eventually learn to respond to voice commands alone.

The "Stay" command

Like the sit command, the stay command is a vital building block to other, more advanced training. For instance, the stay command is vital to teaching the dog to come when called, which is in turn vital to off leash work.

The stay command can be made into an extension of the sit command. Have your dog sit, and while he is sitting, slowly back away. If the dog begins to follow you, as he probably will it first, come back to the dog and ask him to sit again. Repeat the process until you can reach the end of the leash without your dog getting up from a sitting position.

After the dog is reliably staying where you indicate, you can try dropping the leash and backing further away. It will probably take the dog some time to reliably stay where he is put without becoming distracted.

The "Down" command

The down command is another important part of any basic obedience training program. Teaching a dog to lie down on command is much more than an entertaining trick. The down command is very important in regaining control of a dog, or stopping a dog who is engaged in an inappropriate behavior.

The "Off" command

The off command is just as vital to as the other commands, and it forms the basis for later training, especially when training the dog not to chase people, cars, bikes, cats, etc.

For instance, when training a dog to remain still when a bicycle goes by, the owner would stand with the dog calmly on the leash. If the dog begins to strain against the leash, the owner sharply issues an "Off" command accompanied by a tug of the leash. Eventually the dog will learn to respond to the voice command alone.

Edwina Hanson runs a successful dog and owner training company. She is the author of many articles and reports about all aspects of dog training. Click on Complete Dog Care Report [http://www.k9-training-tips.com/free-dog-care-report.html] for a free 73 page report.

The first thing I noticed when I purchased Sit Stay Fetch was that it is meaty.

SitStayFetch is one of the most comprehensive and complete dog ownership tools I have found. Let me say upfront I am a big fan of this Dog Training Package. I was very

happy when I discovered it and have used it to great effect with my own dogs ever since.

Sit Stay Fetch is over 150 pages chock full of all the latest dog training methods and techniques. This, along with the 4 free bonus books that come with it cover every aspect of responsible dog ownership and training.

From before you bring home your new puppy or older dog, right through to advanced obedience training, it seems nothing has been left out of SitStayFetch. If you have a specific question or problem that isn't addressed you can even email the author Daniel Stevens for the answer! (This is another free bonus that comes with Sit Stay Fetch).

Daniel, who is a professional dog trainer clearly knows his stuff, he has a deep understanding of how dogs think, and what motivates them to do what they do.

What You Get In The SitStayFetch Package

1. SitStayFetch - Dog Training To Stop Your Dog's Behavior Training

Well over 150 pages jam packed with dog care and obedience training advice. It also includes more than 100 photographs which prove to be a great visual learning tool. The book is very detailed and descriptive and offers clear step-by-step solutions to your dog issues. The main book is broken up into 9 seperate chapters, which I discuss in more detail below.

2. Bonus Book 1 - All The House Training Methods and Tricks

Everything you need to know to quickly and successfully house train (potty train) your new

puppy or even older dog. The two most effective methods of house training are discussed

and described in detail.

3. Bonus Book 2 - Secrets To Becoming The Alpha Dog

One of the key areas to learn and apply if you want a happy and obedient dog. This e-book is based around dogs having developed as pack animals and how you need to maintain the proper hierarchy in the owner-dog relationship. I found this part of SitStayFetch to be most beneficial in curbing some dominant/aggresive behavior in my Dalmation, Harrison.

4. Bonus Book 3 - Dog Grooming Made Easy

This book explores the different bathing, grooming, dental and clipping techniques needed to

keep your dog looking and feeling in peak condition. There are also some very

useful tips in this book on detecting early signs that something may be wrong with your dog.

5. Bonus Book 4 - Tips On How To Security Train Your Dog

It goes without saying that if you are considering training your dog to be a guard dog, you

need to do it the right way. This book outlines the correct methods needed to security train

your dog.

6. Bonus 5 - Free Email Consultation With Daniel

This is a great add-on to the SitStayFetch package, it can be used for any specific dog

related query you may have. Whether you are struggling to correct a behavioral problem or

would like to teach your dog a new trick, you can use this consultation to find the answer. I actually used this free service to fix a destructive chewing habit my mum's Shih Tzu had developed. It took a couple of days to receive a reply from Daniel (or one of his team) but it was very thorough and did the trick with little Macy (the Shih Tzu).

Topics Covered Within SitStayFetch

As I mentioned earlier Sit Stay Fetch really is the complete dog ownership and training

resource. It's not really fair of me if I detail every topic Daniel has included in the books, but I'll just outline the 9 Chapters that provide the books framework.

It's A Dogs Life

Caring for Your Dog

Training Methods Revealed

Secrets To Understanding Your Dog

Dog Problems Solved

Commands To Start With

Dog Whispering Uncovered

More Dog Problems Solved

Advanced Commands and Tricks

Some specific tips in SitStayFetch which I have personally found to be very useful:

Daniel discusses and explains many of the dog training techniques and methods being used today. He then picks out a couple which he believes to be superior to the others. He bases this on personal experience and most importantly results. A relatively new technique called Dog Whispering receives a strong endorsement from Daniel.

The right age to start your dog off with the various commands and techniques is also covered in detail. For example it is important to start your young puppies off with very basic obedience commands and short sharp training sessions. At this early stage in your puppies life anything else is pointless.
Another great insight Daniel gives is that you should never call your dog over to

reprimand him. This is because dogs need to be praised or disciplined within two or three

seconds of their action (or inaction). So if your dog is disobedient, then you call him over

to discipline him, he will think you are angry at him for coming to you. He will have

forgotten all about the thing you are actually trying to discipline him for.

The list of Dog Problems addressed in SitStayFetch is extensive and is backed by real life

case studies:
Aggression

Thieving

Biting and Nipping

Travel Problems

Coprophagia (poop eating)

2 Dogs In The House

Destructive Behavior

A Death In The Family

Digging Holes

Bad Breath

Disobedience

Cat Chaser

Dominance Aggression

Flatulence

Fear of the Leash

Fleas

Fights Between Dogs

Hot Weather And Heatstroke

Nuisance Barking

Jealousy

Off-Leash Problems

Jumping On Furniture

Jumping On People

Worms

These are the Obedience Training Commands and Tricks Explained in Sit Stay Fetch:
Come (Recall)

Roll Over

Sit Stage 1

Seek (Find)

Okay and No

Training Program

Hold and Leave

Advanced Sit and Stay

Sit Stage 2

Advanced Seek (Find)

Sit and Stay

Beg

Down (Drop)

Fetch (Retrieve)

Heel Stage 1

Catch

Heel Stage 2

Shake

Heel Stage 3

Climb

Stand

Crawl

Wait

Jump

What Type of Dog Owner Would Benefit Most from SitStayFetch?

The easy answer is probably - any responsible dog owner. But more specifically:

Anyone who is just about to get a new puppy or has just recently brought one into their family. If you bought SitStayFetch at this stage you would be able to use it immediately and right throughout your dogs life. It will help prevent any behavioral problems and correct any which may develop along the way.

Anyone interested in addressing a specific behavioral problem in their dog. This type of user would go straight to the relevant section of SitStayFetch and begin to remedy the problem immediately (or even use the free email consultation).

For a dog owner who wishes to teach their dog a difficult or advanced level command.

My Experience With SitStayFetch

I read the books from cover to cover when I first downloaded them (they are also available to order in hard copy). I picked up heaps of useful and useable tips right from the start. I was soon applying the recommended dog training techniques and have now

had great results with my own and families dogs. Even now, if one of my dogs looks to be developing any behavioral problems I reach for my copy of Sit Stay Fetch.

Chris Smith is a dog lover and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com.

You are the best person in the world to train your dog - why not do it the right way, at home?

You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!

You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.

Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.

Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.

1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:

- Don't let him pull on his leash.

- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.

- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.

- Always eat before he does.

- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.

- Don't allow him to bite anyone.

- Always go through doorways before him.

- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.

- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.

- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.

- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.

When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!

2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.

3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.

4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.

Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.

5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection

6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.

If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.

Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:

- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for

recommendations.

- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.

- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.

- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.

- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.

- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.

- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.

- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.

Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.

7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.

8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!

If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.

If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.

Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!